CK5
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Rear Shock Mounting
- Thread starter nvrenuf
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- Mar 3, 2000
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I was looking at buying some parts from MOO but they were closing when I got ready to pull the trigger.
I have heard the term putting beams on but never knew what it meant, Still learning...
I have heard the term putting beams on but never knew what it meant, Still learning...
Anyone make a cantilever kit? There's no way I'd trust my measuring and welding abilities to put something like that together...but I like the idea. It looks like it would also help control body roll if it was set up like a swaybar. For me, lowering the shock mount on the axle will work, but I don't want to get crazy....I do mostly rocks, and don't do anything fast, so I think I could protect it pretty well...I'm thinking just have it an inch or two below the bottom of the tube, it wouldn't even be as low as the bottom of the diff. That plus some sort of mount like the brown ones in beginning will probably have to do. Better to leave them outboard and angle them forward, or inboard and angle them toward the center?
Would shorter springs make it any easier? Someone has solved this problem, right?
Would shorter springs make it any easier? Someone has solved this problem, right?
I would angle them forward or backward as opposed to inward. Agdiesler has long leafspings and shocks angled forward. I’d guess he’s pushing 16”
That's the Willomet guy, right? I had been looking at the way he did his, he's got a different shackle setup, but his shock setup is perfect....but it's all completely custom welded up, far beyond anything I could attempt. Plus it looks like it took him a couple of weeks to set up, and he knows what he's doing a lot more than I do. His setup is on an 85 sub, mine is a sub frame also, but a 73, so it's probably a little different. I do notice he's got his rear hangers set up completely different than I do. The way he has them probably avoids binding when the spring gets stuffed all the way up. Swapping them would change ride height, though.
Yeah I guess if your unable to custom Fab it, your going to be limited on your options.
And if I have someone else do it, I could probably just link the rear for the same amount of money. Then I'd have room for the shocks.
Linked or not, your lower shock mount is going to be below the axle if your upper is limited by the body. Unless you get custom.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Not knowing too much about linking, but if it’s linked is there any reason you can’t use a shorter shock and mount it somewhere up the links? Again, you’d need stiffer shocks the higher and shorter you go. Then the upper shock mount would go to a custom crossmember.
Correct. And your lower link that your shock would mount to, would now need to be trussed to handle the bending load that it now has.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Along with a mount that clamps onto the tube so the link is still adjustable.
You wouldn’t have to do that. You can pull the bolt at the attachment point and spin the heim.
Yeah, I guess I didn't really think about that. You can't get 14" of shock travel in 12 inches of space, can you? Any reason I couldn't use these to mount my shocks to the frame?
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Absolutely. That’s what I used. I modified mine and made some frame plates and crossbars to get them as high as possible. I have room for a 14” short. But my mounts are very low on the axle.
I think that's going to have to be the ticket. Will it make a difference with the shocks angled to the rear with leaves? Your axle will move forward as it compresses, mine will move back. What thickness of plate did you use for the frame extention? and I take it you just ran a piece of DOM between the two plates, right? Any other photos you may have would be apprecitated...I'm thinking I'm going to try that....
One question: What's that circled in red?
One question: What's that circled in red?
Those circled things were just some temporary scrap I had on there when I was setting my upper bump point.
I can’t remember if the plate was 3/16” or 1/4” I’d have to look.
I ran two pieces of tube across for x-members. I think it was 1-1/4” .120 wall.
I’ll look for a pic.
Whatever you decide to do, you need to take your leaf springs apart and only run the main leaf or two if it’s got a double wrap. Use a block of wood or metal to simulate the thickness of the complete pack. Then you can cycle your suspension fully.
Thanks for the advice. And the photos. Been reading your build thread, also...when I talked to my buddy who can actually weld, he suggested bolting the plate to the frame so as not to weaken the frame by welding to it. Any thoughts on that? Also, what angle did you mount the coilover at? Is there a "right" angle, I would imagine you could adjust it a bit by canting the bracket before you weld it on to the plate.
As far as cycling the suspension, I'm primarily looking for the tire to be hitting the shock body, right? The only thing I'd be able to do if it does is move the axle mount further in?
Going back to the original question, I was running FOA's mounted on top of the axle, and the point at which the went through the bed was just inside the fenderwell, I mean like part of the vertical portion of the fenderwell was cut to let them through, and I never had any rubbing issues, either.
As far as cycling the suspension, I'm primarily looking for the tire to be hitting the shock body, right? The only thing I'd be able to do if it does is move the axle mount further in?
Going back to the original question, I was running FOA's mounted on top of the axle, and the point at which the went through the bed was just inside the fenderwell, I mean like part of the vertical portion of the fenderwell was cut to let them through, and I never had any rubbing issues, either.
