Rear Shock Mounting

[Fastereddie]

Being you are only using the shock for dampening and not suspending the weight of the truck, bolting on would be totally fine. As far as angles go, perpendicular to the axle travel is going to be the most efficient for the shock. As you angle away from that, either forward/backward or in/out, the effect of the shock is less. But, you get more wheel travel vs shock travel.
As far as cycling goes, you are looking for everything! Tire to body, tire to shock, shock to anything (axle, bracket, frame, etc…) you also don’t want the shock to be your bump stop or limit strap….

 

[pparker]

Im currently making, “copying” the burly burb design with my own twist. Will try and get pics when i get home. Its pretty simple and going to go rather quickly.

A piece of pipe across with two plates and gussetts just welded on. And use 4 shock tabs. Im going to get a new angle finder or borrow one. My Harbor frieght one is reading diff when i rotate 90 by 10degrees

So ill be either at 20 or 30degrees infront of axle with the pipe above frame, and shock mounted on front facing side of axle, but not below the tube. Will know for sure with good angle finder tomorrow.

I do have a question, so the shock angle/effectivness ratio, only applies to the direction of force correct? Otherwise you would think a cantilever would loose all efficiency?

I ask because of the way leaf sprung axles move rear and up under compression and forward and down in droop, so it would seem to me the true 90’ mounting position might not be directly above the axle, but more around 2”-4” on frame above and behind the axle to be inline 90’ to the way it actually moves?

Which is more around 10 degrees behind, so with me being 30 infront, i maybe closer to a 50 degree angle on effectiveness. Maybe i should run 4 shocks off of my tube to compensate and still keep travel?

2 outboard and two inboard. Just bilstien 5125s specced from ORD.

Thoughts?

 

[Fastereddie]

Im currently making, “copying” the burly burb design with my own twist. Will try and get pics when i get home. Its pretty simple and going to go rather quickly.

A piece of pipe across with two plates and gussetts just welded on. And use 4 shock tabs. Im going to get a new angle finder or borrow one. My Harbor frieght one is reading diff when i rotate 90 by 10degrees

So ill be either at 20 or 30degrees infront of axle with the pipe above frame, and shock mounted on front facing side of axle, but not below the tube. Will know for sure with good angle finder tomorrow.

I do have a question, so the shock angle/effectivness ratio, only applies to the direction of force correct? Otherwise you would think a cantilever would loose all efficiency?

I ask because of the way leaf sprung axles move rear and up under compression and forward and down in droop, so it would seem to me the true 90’ mounting position might not be directly above the axle, but more around 2”-4” on frame above and behind the axle to be inline 90’ to the way it actually moves?

Which is more around 10 degrees behind, so with me being 30 infront, i maybe closer to a 50 degree angle on effectiveness. Maybe i should run 4 shocks off of my tube to compensate and still keep travel?

2 outboard and two inboard. Just bilstien 5125s specced from ORD.

Thoughts?

View attachment 403471

Your thinking sounds correct. But the axle doesn’t move that much rearward. The shackle does, but the axle not as much.

 

[pparker]

I wonder if ORD specs these to be 100% efficient at the stock mounting angles, or at 90'? i would love to throw on bypasses but not in the budget.

 

[anwat]

There were several trucks in days past that mounted one shock angled forward, the other side was angled to the rear. That seems to me a good way to do it if you're worried about the forward/rearward axle movement. Although the fact that no trucks I know of now have that same setup would make me wonder if it didn't work that well in real life.

Photos will be appreciated. When I looked at going forward, it seems there isn't as much room between the axle and the frame, which is why I was thinking of going to the rear with both.

 

[pparker]

There were several trucks in days past that mounted on

Ill for sure get pics tomorrow we had tball and stuff tonight got busy. There is def room to go forward,

So i got good angle finder, borrowed, angle of factory shock is 25’ if axle is one inch rearward, ill check tomorrow what it would be like pure factory as i forgot my axle is one inch rear when i measured.

But ORD specs the shocks to be 100% efficient at the factory angles.(i called them) My new angle will be 30’ which isnt much loss of efficiency and no need to run more valving.

Also i measured to order driveshaft today and fastereddie you are right. My driveshaft is 37 -15/16 at ride and the exact same at 9” of droop from that, i may get 2.5” more inches of droop once i notch out rear spring hangers but i may have to limit because of shocks, well see. Looks like 42’ driveshafts are in my future.

 

[pparker]

Ok maybe not best pictures, but the pipe is cut to 47.5” long. Plenty of room move it further front or back above the frame.

Just gonna make plates and weld on frame with a notch cut out on top for pipe to rest in.

I could bolt the plates to frame aswell, but i like to weld and hate driling holes. I will also put some gussets from the plate to the tube. This is pretty simple. Using some 4” flat strap, maybe two 8” long pieces, its i think 3/16 thick, cut notch for pipe in top, and weld to frame with a wet rag between fuel lines and frame on inside. (Fuel lines are also empty and tank is out)

The tube is pretty thick Oilfield DOM from a pump something that was leftover. I think 1.5”OD by like .250 wall or somethin.

If yall need more specs let me know

But im sure regular 120 wall would be fine with like 1.5” DOM. this is just shock mounting, so not like full on axle weight and impacts are being sent to frame.

Will be setting bumps after i get these setup aswell and limit straps on bottom, pretty sure im gonna max out 30’ driveshaft with my droop, so will have to be limited, atleast in the center and keep some articulation.

Tom woods said 42’ degree shaft meant for slower RPMs i would tear it up when i drive on highway, so cant do it.

Im ok with shocks being the articulation limit strap for droop esp if weight mainly suspended by center strap. I dont plan on hittin high speed bumps at full articulation anyway. But it would make an awesome video to watch.

 

[Truckman4life]

That's pretty much how F150 rear shocks are mounted.

 

[Fastereddie]

That's pretty much how F150 rear shocks are mounted.

Yeah, but furd so…

 

[fastazz81]

You could fix the wollered out hole and then use the ord brace in the original location.

 

[pparker]

You could fix the wollered out hole and then use the ord brace in the original location.View attachment 404020

Im not sure if i could use orig location outboarding, but would make alot simpler for most folks. Ill see how close the shock body gets to ubolt plate in that position, that could be easy swap for alot of folks.

 

[pparker]

You could fix the wollered out hole and then use the ord brace in the original location

You can see here ive got it quite aways further out from the original position. Maybe 1/2” inside from end of tube is where i was thinking.

 

[anwat]

Absolutely. That’s what I used. I modified mine and made some frame plates and crossbars to get them as high as possible. I have room for a 14” short. But my mounts are very low on the axle.

When you say modified, did you actually modify the ORD part, or are you talking about adding the frame plates. I ordered them towards the beginning of Feb. and they say they're still a couple of weeks out, so I'm trying to plan this out as much as I can. I figure I'm going to weld the mount to the plate, then either bolt or weld the plate to the frame. How did you manage to get that tubing attached across the width of the frame...It doesn't look like there's enough room to weld it after its attached to the frame. I was thinking maybe putting a short piece of tubing on each plate, then sleeving it to a longer piece once it's installed. Just wondering about that modification...did you have to change something on the ORD part? And where did you get your lower shock tabs, or did you make them? I'd like to see how low they hang if you have time to take a pic.

I'm in a little different space, since I know I've got plenty of room for 15" of travel out of the rear axle, since I had close to 16" when the shocks were mounted to the bedcage. The shocks will be the limiting factor on travel, but at least I don't have to worry about the driveshaft or any of that.

 

[Fastereddie]

When you say modified, did you actually modify the ORD part, or are you talking about adding the frame plates. I ordered them towards the beginning of Feb. and they say they're still a couple of weeks out, so I'm trying to plan this out as much as I can. I figure I'm going to weld the mount to the plate, then either bolt or weld the plate to the frame. How did you manage to get that tubing attached across the width of the frame...It doesn't look like there's enough room to weld it after its attached to the frame. I was thinking maybe putting a short piece of tubing on each plate, then sleeving it to a longer piece once it's installed. Just wondering about that modification...did you have to change something on the ORD part? And where did you get your lower shock tabs, or did you make them? I'd like to see how low they hang if you have time to take a pic.

I'm in a little different space, since I know I've got plenty of room for 15" of travel out of the rear axle, since I had close to 16" when the shocks were mounted to the bedcage. The shocks will be the limiting factor on travel, but at least I don't have to worry about the driveshaft or any of that.

Yes I modified the Ord part. I notched the top and massaged the shock pocket so it wouldn’t dig into the shock anodizing at max angles. Nothing crazy. I had the fuel tank out when all the work was going on. The cross tubes are not welded 360* I was only able to get about 75%. But I’m not worried about it because those tubes are only in compression. I don’t think they would even be needed on a damper only situation. The lower mounts are an extended version of Chris’s ‘77 ord truck. Mine hang hella low, but I haven’t had any issues yet. They are all gusseted into the lower link bracket.

 

[anwat]

Absolutely. That’s what I used. I modified mine and made some frame plates and crossbars to get them as high as possible. I have room for a 14” short. But my mounts are very low on the axle.

When you say a 14" short, what exactly do you mean? If you don't mind, what shock do you have room to mount in your setup? I am starting welding next week on mine. I'm trying to figure out which shock to try to run, so I've been trying to research where I can get the most travel out of the shortest eye to eye shock. Sounds like you may have already done the work there....best I've found is the Fox airshock, the 14" has a collapsed length of just over 21".

 

[Chickntrk]

I used diy4x inboarding kit when I swapped in my 1 ton 14 bolt, had to weld new mounts on the axle anyway so I figured why not eliminate the failure prone upper stud.


(DIY photo, not my own)

 

[Fastereddie]

When you say a 14" short, what exactly do you mean? If you don't mind, what shock do you have room to mount in your setup? I am starting welding next week on mine. I'm trying to figure out which shock to try to run, so I've been trying to research where I can get the most travel out of the shortest eye to eye shock. Sounds like you may have already done the work there....best I've found is the Fox airshock, the 14" has a collapsed length of just over 21".

 

[K5Devil]

I am in need of doing something with my rear shocks as well. The PO literally welded the shock to the frame on one side. And on the other did a terrible job welding a plate and shaft to which he just welded the shock to. Yeah really. It’s bad.

But I have a 14bff I need to put under it as well so I was kinda wondering what I should do.

My old K5 had the ford shock towers on the rear and front. But I want something cleaner looking.

The canteliever set up is interesting. I’m going to research that as an option. I really like the Tan bracket in the beginning of this thread and thought on that one for a while.

 

[anwat]

thanks...I've never seen the "short" shock listed anywhere. Looks like the Fox ones are still a bit shorter compressed...both the remote smoothies and the air. So those will be specs I try to plan on fitting in there. The ORD plates I ordered in January are in, so Monday I cross the point of no return.

Welding the shock to the tube is one I've never seen. Kind of like a poor man's panhard bar, huh? Makes you wonder what else the PO may have fixed like that....

those cantilever setups are way cool...but look like a lot of work and too much precise measuring for someone of my skills. Misalignment bushings and stacks of washers are my friends.

 

[K5Devil]

thanks...I've never seen the "short" shock listed anywhere. Looks like the Fox ones are still a bit shorter compressed...both the remote smoothies and the air. So those will be specs I try to plan on fitting in there. The ORD plates I ordered in January are in, so Monday I cross the point of no return.

Welding the shock to the tube is one I've never seen. Kind of like a poor man's panhard bar, huh? Makes you wonder what else the PO may have fixed like that....

those cantilever setups are way cool...but look like a lot of work and too much precise measuring for someone of my skills. Misalignment bushings and stacks of washers are my friends.

Everything else I have fixed. Rewired the whole truck. PO didn’t drive it far either because he drove it it with a broken shift fork in the TC only 2 miles to the boat launch from his house the entire time he owned it. Dude towed a tritoon on the poorest looking welded hitch I have ever seen in my life. Gave everything a freshening up. Rebuilt the TC. Motor is basically new it was a crate engine that never got driven above 30 mph. But I was leaving the suspension for last. I don’t drive it far or anything. And they aren’t snapping off anytime soon. Haha