The pickle fork will damage the boots but the hammer on the stud can damage threads even with a nut on it.
CK5
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Replace drag link and sleeve
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
Does damage matter if I'm replacing it all anyway, drag link and boots? If I just do the boots then a pickle fork would suffice, if replacing it all a hammer is what's needed?
What type of hammer is best used the orange plastic mallet type?
I went and checked the drag link and there is zero movement up and down, does that mean it's still solid and good and just my smashed boot should be replaced? I mean If Im in there I should just replace it all anyway?
I like the pullers. Depending on what the pickle fork is hitting it can damage the socket or other parts of a ball joint that were otherwise still good. Put the nut on the end to protect the threads, crank some tension onto the puller, then whack the side with a hammer, like shown earlier in this thread.
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-pitman-arm-puller
Hammering on the stud doesn't work well if the other side has any give to it. So it could work at the steering arm end, but the pitman arm/box likely move enough to absorb the blow.
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-pitman-arm-puller
Hammering on the stud doesn't work well if the other side has any give to it. So it could work at the steering arm end, but the pitman arm/box likely move enough to absorb the blow.
Thanks.
I may just head to HB to pick this up.
www.harborfreight.com
Like this? At.35 sec
I may just head to HB to pick this up.
Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller
Amazing deals on this Tie Rod And Pitman Arm Puller at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Like this? At.35 sec
rampage
3/4 ton status
Just be ready for what might sound like gunfire.Thanks.
I may just head to HB to pick this up.
Tie Rod and Pitman Arm Puller
Amazing deals on this Tie Rod And Pitman Arm Puller at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Like this? At.35 sec
A few times I did that I cranked down really hard on it and then when I hit it I nearly soiled myself.
Good idea to measure the width at the steering arm and pitman arm. They may need different pullers. Avoid hammering the puller on if it's too tight, as I've never bent one without it breaking later.
Thanks for the tips...
Had to remove both castle nuts.. sprayed the shiz out of it with wd40 cut the boot. Smacked a few dozen times. Tried pulley again and it pooped out
Finally got this bish out
Cleaned, painted. Hole kept clean
..
Hand tight...looks good or? Same as the old in spacing
These ORD ones sucked... had to use stock moog boots. They'd buckle or squish up. No matter what I did nothing worked. Waste of money.
These ORD ones sucked... had to use stock moog boots. They'd buckle or squish up. No matter what I did nothing worked. Waste of money.
Last edited:
rampage
3/4 ton status
That’s the weld on steering box frame brace that someone followed the instructions on and didn’t fully weld it.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Looks awfully jagged.
They ground them boogers down
Well, finished it thanks to @Wes Harden patience over the phone. I'm hesitant to posts the finished results.
Anyway,
I'm done for a while.
Thanks
Anyway,
I'm done for a while.
Thanks
To get tie rod ends like that out just smack the arm where the stud goes through, pops right out, no puller needed and no boot destruction
Those are probably the boots for TRE, not DLE, hence the original title of this thread.
Maybe sometimes, certainly not all times. I doubt it's even the majority.
