CK5
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ReTonkulous

Utlilmaster P30
Once you get done towing your neighbor, and then doing a victory dance because you found magic, send me that transmission tuning video you were telling me about
 
Well, I drove it. More than just reverse. Put the new TCM in. The TCM tune is so far off it went into limp mode within a 1/4 mile. Slipped so bad going into second on light throttle, I didn't think it was going to find second. Slipped a tiny bit into 3rd. Turned around immediately. 21 codes thrown. Mainly trans codes multiple times.

Put the original TCM back in it and, what do ya know? It shifted, did not go into limp mode. Did a 4 wheel burnie in the dirt. Still needs to be fine tuned for my gears and tire diameter.

Now the learning curve begins.
 
Well, I drove it. More than just reverse. Put the new TCM in. The TCM tune is so far off it went into limp mode within a 1/4 mile. Slipped so bad going into second on light throttle, I didn't think it was going to find second. Slipped a tiny bit into 3rd. Turned around immediately. 21 codes thrown. Mainly trans codes multiple times.

Put the original TCM back in it and, what do ya know? It shifted, did not go into limp mode. Did a 4 wheel burnie in the dirt. Still needs to be fine tuned for my gears and tire diameter.

Now the learning curve begins.
Got me for a minute with the 4 wheel burnie; I was like this thing is a 4wd?! What did I miss? Then I remembered, oh yeah, dual rear. :rotfl:
 
Finally got to mess with the truck today.

The alternator would not charge at all. Tested ok. The ECU is supposed to tell it how much to charge. Was not sending the pulse wave. Which is crazy, because if the 2 wire plug is disconnected, it charges at 13.2 volts like it should. This is a default setting. 13.2 volts was giving me low voltage DTCs on a number of sensors.

Dirty dingo garage has a write up on this generation alternator. I ordered a flux capacitor to turn the alternator on. Set the phasing at 128hz and 78% duty cycle and it is charging at 14.2 going down the road.

More to come.
 
Transmission seems to be fine. No slipping that I notice. It is just weird with the volume of gears to go through. I had the laptop hooked to it while I drove to watch the gauges and compare them to my analog. So close to being the same, I can not tell the difference. Runs really cool at any kind of speed. Will get up to 195 sitting for a prolonged time. Cools down to 165 going down the road. Will not run the programmed settings until 170. That leads me to the next issue.

When I was backing it in, the last 20 feet had coolant dripping enough to see it on the concrete. Leaking around the drain valve. So I pulled the radiator. Super easy in this thing now. Tried to back the petcock out. :doah:PXL_20240726_183600588.jpg

What are you all doing for radiators? 84 C30, 2wd, no other coolers needed. I am going to try to get this original 4 row fixed. But I want to have a backup plan.
 
I always went for a replacement brass/copper but those are getting crazy these days $$$$. I’ve installed a few champion aluminum units for people and I think that will be the route I take in the future. Well built, reasonably priced and made here in America. Well thought out website that gives all the dimensions so you don’t have to question if it will fit
 
Always use silver solder with acid flux. Looks good a radiator shop would have done the same.
 
fan relay are you doing ground switched ?

late model is now ground switched for control functions .

and grease the muffler bearings .
 
fan relay are you doing ground switched ?

late model is now ground switched for control functions .
You must be old.

No relays.
New fans run 4 gauge + and - directly from the battery and a Pulse Wave Modulated (PWM) control feed from the ECU.

The alternator is controlled the same way.
 
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