CK5
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ReTonkulous

Utlilmaster P30
Laying block the last 3 days liked to have killed me. Along with mowing and weed eating. So today was Tonka day. I needed to get the fan and alternator working before I could do much more.

With help from Eddie, I was able to get the settings correct for the fan and turn the fan on at 140* at 10% speed. Was set to start coming onat 220*. I set it to 190 at this time. Engine won't get above 150 right now. Not sure why the thermostat isn't warming it up further.

The alternator settings were way off. I was able to run it with a remote phase converter. So the unit is good. I could not find anything on line about locating or adjusting the settings. Just started clicking around the software and found a button. In the scanner software to force it on. It worked. So I know the ECU will control it. In the programming software I finally found the setting to ramp the generator up. It was set to come on at 11 volts. Engine needs 13.5 minimum. I set it at 13.6 at idle. Goes to 14.2 at RPM.

I am making progress.
Now to get the idle tune and spark advance dialed it. Surges at idle and detonates right off of closed throttle under load.
 
Really frustrated with this.

I drove the truck 7 miles each way to a car show yesterday. Runs like crap.
Throttle response is that of a Yugo.
When I back off of the throttle I get what sounds like open exhaust valves through the exhaust and a couple of backfires????????????????????????
So many of the base settings were so far off, I could not drive it initially.
It will not get above 165 degrees. 2 different sending units in 2 different locations on 2 different gauges show the same thing at the same time. So I am going to say they are correct.
Back fired pulling to a stop at a signal that the Sheriff Deputy opened his car door behind me while looking around. My friend in front of me was looking around, so I did also.

Bought a new thermostat yesterday afternoon. Pulled the old one, it was closed, but who knows what it was doing. Installed the new 207* thermostat this afternoon. Same thing.:dunno:

Then the :doah:moment hit me.

I am using the OEM radiator. Has the heater return in it. I did not have a way to cap it off, so I "t" it into the heater core line. On the hot side. So it had a 5/8" line running constantly. Switched that to the cold line and fixed.
Running at 208 right now.

So now I can start to try to figure out the other crap.
 
Not sure if your on any other sites or maybe have a tuner near you. But get someone else's working tune, and just upload it.
Use that one as a baseline for yours.
Only thing you may need to change is the injector numbers and possibly displacement.
Rest should be close enough to run.
 
I think you have several things cooking, but hopefully this helps some

Did you get enough fresh fuel in this to cut it?
 
Not sure if your on any other sites or maybe have a tuner near you. But get someone else's working tune, and just upload it.
Use that one as a baseline for yours.
Only thing you may need to change is the injector numbers and possibly displacement.
Rest should be close enough to run.
That is where I am now. Going through it, checking settings.

I think you have several things cooking, but hopefully this helps some

Did you get enough fresh fuel in this to cut it?
30 gallons of premium over 10 gallons of junk.

Getting the tire diameter and rear gears correct fixed the detonation, prior to the fuel upgrade.
 
Really frustrated with this.

I drove the truck 7 miles each way to a car show yesterday. Runs like crap.
Throttle response is that of a Yugo.
When I back off of the throttle I get what sounds like open exhaust valves through the exhaust and a couple of backfires????????????????????????
So many of the base settings were so far off, I could not drive it initially.
It will not get above 165 degrees. 2 different sending units in 2 different locations on 2 different gauges show the same thing at the same time. So I am going to say they are correct.
Back fired pulling to a stop at a signal that the Sheriff Deputy opened his car door behind me while looking around. My friend in front of me was looking around, so I did also.

Bought a new thermostat yesterday afternoon. Pulled the old one, it was closed, but who knows what it was doing. Installed the new 207* thermostat this afternoon. Same thing.:dunno:

Then the :doah:moment hit me.

I am using the OEM radiator. Has the heater return in it. I did not have a way to cap it off, so I "t" it into the heater core line. On the hot side. So it had a 5/8" line running constantly. Switched that to the cold line and fixed.
Running at 208 right now.

So now I can start to try to figure out the other crap.
It's a stock engine and stock trans, it should run normal with the stock tune...am I missing something?

If you put larger tires behind the stock vehicle, it will still run fine, just the speedo will be off. So the fact that it's not running correctly means its not the correct stock tune for that engine or something else is wrong, you should not need to tune it to get it to run correctly, you should only need to tune it if you want to tweak some more ponies out of it and/or turn off the AFM, etc.

I suggest you find the correct stock tune and go from there, it shouldn't be that much trouble that it is causing you.

It is ~12:1 compression so you do need good gas.
 
If it's stock, how wouldn't be 12:1?

The L86 with DI is over 12:1 stock. It "recommends" premium, but it's not required as it will just turn back the timing. The fuel doesn't detonate if it's not in the cylinder yet.

DI and VVT really help with stock performance, AFM, not so much.
 
:waytogo:I was thinking like lq4/9 for some reason.
I wondered why the ECM looked weird lol.
 
It's a stock engine and stock trans, it should run normal with the stock tune...am I missing something?

If you put larger tires behind the stock vehicle, it will still run fine, just the speedo will be off. So the fact that it's not running correctly means its not the correct stock tune for that engine or something else is wrong, you should not need to tune it to get it to run correctly, you should only need to tune it if you want to tweak some more ponies out of it and/or turn off the AFM, etc.

I suggest you find the correct stock tune and go from there, it shouldn't be that much trouble that it is causing you.

It is ~12:1 compression so you do need good gas.
Because the asshat he got the ecm from has a 5.3 tune in it. I got a 2017 6.2 tune from the repository and copy and pasted a hundred different tables into Wade’s tune and sent it to him.
 
Because the asshat he got the ecm from has a 5.3 tune in it. I got a 2017 6.2 tune from the repository and copy and pasted a hundred different tables into Wade’s tune and sent it to him.
I would like to give you an additional Thank You on Wade's behalf without Wade's permission. :waytogo:
 
Eddie has been a huge help. Working on a new upload as I type this. Should I be working? Yes. Am I? No.

I am not going to gointo the crap the original tune had in it. We have changed so much.
 
Why won't a segment swap do it?
I have never messed with that so I’m not sure what it entails or does. I thought that was for changing transmission types or something along those lines. Wade’s tune/vin number is already licensed to his computer so I was just copy and pasting all the 6.2 settings into his. If that segment swap will do that without changing certain parameters like all the dtc stuff and whatever else he has already fixed like fans and charging. I would like to learn.
 
I was just assuming that the things customized in the PCM are fewer than the number of settings specific to the engine. So you could do a compare with a stock 5.3 file and note the changes that were made. Then you lift the 6.2 engine "segment" from a 6.2 file and everything specific from that engine is copied in. This all requires that the tune in there and the tune you're copying from are the same OS. The end result is the same unless there are some settings that didn't get copied over.

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