CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

ReTonkulous

Utlilmaster P30
Yep. Might as well cut one coil and axle flip the rear too. Then you can walk into the truck instead of stepping UP into it.

It would look cool AND have old-person-friendly ingress and egress, lol.
Rear has had multiple leafs removed and hangers moved.
One coil would be like a 3" drop in its own lol.
Stock travel with the 3" drop spindle.
If it rides stiff now, wait till you cut a coil out... Which is why he should bag it instead.
It is not stiff in the front end. Bags will go into the new chassis if I ever get to it.
 
Yep. Might as well cut one coil and axle flip the rear too. Then you can walk into the truck instead of stepping UP into it.

It would look cool AND have old-person-friendly ingress and egress, lol.
Rear has had multiple leafs removed and hangers moved.
One coil would be like a 3" drop in its own lol.
Stock travel with the 3" drop spindle.
If it rides stiff now, wait till you cut a coil out... Which is why he should bag it instead.
It is not stiff in the front end. Bags will go into the new chassis, if I ever get to it

It took 1.5 hours to swap one spindle. My arms and fingers are not like they used to be.
 
Is it not the same drop ratio as the typical C10-30? I thought one coil was 2" or less? So 5" total for the front and a flip in the rear would be around 5".

I could be wrong. I haven't lowered much stuff.
 
I have never cut a coil on anything. Set a jack under the frame 1/2" higher than final ride height. Heat very well. Let cool. Remove jack and go cruising.
 
Is it not the same drop ratio as the typical C10-30? I thought one coil was 2" or less? So 5" total for the front and a flip in the rear would be around 5".

I could be wrong. I haven't lowered much stuff.
No. Doesn't work like that lol.
You set the flat part of the coil on the ground, measure to the center of the coil at the highest point, and start spinning the coil measuring the center until you've come down half of the amount you want to drop.
Mark and cut it there. :waytogo:
Rears you cut the actual amount you want to drop unless they're mounted mid control arm.. then there's math to do.

Been researching it a lot since I'm getting close to doing it.


Hijack off .. :D
 
No. Doesn't work like that lol.
You set the flat part of the coil on the ground, measure to the center of the coil at the highest point, and start spinning the coil measuring the center until you've come down half of the amount you want to drop.
Mark and cut it there. :waytogo:
Rears you cut the actual amount you want to drop unless they're mounted mid control arm.. then there's math to do.

Been researching it a lot since I'm getting close to doing it.


Hijack off .. :D

No sir, hijack not off yet. Lol.

I know that rear coils tend to be a 1:1 ratio. And GM FWD stuff is close-ish to a 1:1 ratio (front). But stuff with front coils mounted more inboard tends to be a 1:2 ratio. For example, cutting 1" of overall spring height may lower the front about 2".

But that's just my limited experience. Maybe I just need to cut more stuff and learn more.

Ok... done with my hijack now.
 
I have never cut a coil on anything. Set a jack under the frame 1/2" higher than final ride height. Heat very well. Let cool. Remove jack and go cruising.

Cutting a coil is actually safer than heating the spring, heating the spring can alter the spring steel and cause the spring to break which would be dangerous.

Using a drop spindle like you did allows the full spring so that option is probably the best.
 
I would never cut or heat a coil today. Those were done in high school.

My dad was making drop spindles in the 60's. Watching one swing on his lathe to cut the hole after welding material on was crazy. He would get the hole spindle red with a custom oven he made, before welding. He had a long process with the heat and cooling.

Later years, he was making spindles from new material.
 
Cutting the spring is only for when they don't make the parts you need.
The spindle is definitely the way to go for 3".

My post about cutting a coil out being 3" by its self was about the fact of one coil dropping it that far, not about that being an option lol.

I have to cut mine because they make a 3" drop spindle, which I have. But they don't make a 4" or 5", etc.
If you want more than 3" you'd have to.

With mine, while they say the drop springs fit, they are all 1/2 ton also. Which sat lower to start and had less spring rate. (Way too soft now)
I put, 1" lowered springs in mine, and the company said ,they worked for my model. Turned out to be about 3.5" drop. Since mine is a 3/4t with the highest tow rating lol.
So back to factory 3/4 diesel springs (highest spring rate), and I'll cut them to fit .

Which you'd have to do I'm guessing if you wanted say 5" instead of just 3".:waytogo:
 
The drop coils are all for 1/2ton it seemed. Which is about 2 inches lower from factory than the 3/4t. So a 3" drop coil in mine would be a 5" drop almost.
Which just makes it too hard to mess with trying to gauge which ones to buy.
The ones I have, that were '1 inch' drop for a c3500 supposedly, were 3.5" on my truck lol.
Looking back at the part number I seen they fit ALL of that body year range 2wd.

There aren't any I found that said "3/4-1 ton only".
Since I wanted a 4" drop, I'll do factory again, cut for the 1" I need, added with the drop spindle.
 
I believe they were bell tech, so a decent name also.
Which is why I trusted what they said lol
 
Top Bottom