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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but that dying you're getting is a tune problem. When you delete the auto trans you default it to a manual so that the rpms drop quicker for shifting. I believe that you can adjust the parameters accordingly.
 
I picked up a Dorman 16x1.5m oil drain plug, cut the smooth tip off, and installed it. That stopped the gushing leak..... but it looks like I have another leak. After the engine gets good and warmed up, I have a medium sized leak (drip every 7 seconds) coming from the back of the oil pan, behind the flex plate. It does not appear to be the rear main seal, I hope not since I replaced it with a new one. It looks like it's seeping out between the block and pan. I'm hoping a new pan gasket will do it.
 
Persistance and you are no strangers, keep plugging away!
The latest wheels look good....they'll be great when you get them polished up
 
I'm really hoping it's the pan gasket. The only thing I can think of is I did jack up the engine from the pan during the mating to the tranny. That shouldn't have done anything, but you never know.
 
I replaced both my pan gasket and the rear main. I noticed that right in the corners the pan gasket and the rear main gasket are supposed to seal to each other. It seemed kinda fishy to me so I dabbed a little RTV in the corners. Maybe that is where your problem lies.
 
I think having the speed sensor and park/neutral sensor is a good idea if you can't beat the dieing thing. My burbs 5.3 is mated to a th400 and it never even thinks of dieing. Even quick drive to reverse or parallel parking, whatever. It's always good.
 
ashman said:
I replaced both my pan gasket and the rear main. I noticed that right in the corners the pan gasket and the rear main gasket are supposed to seal to each other. It seemed kinda fishy to me so I dabbed a little RTV in the corners. Maybe that is where your problem lies.
Click to expand...

Gm says to do this.:thumb:
 
Well great, it's the rear main seal. I changed the pan gasket and got everything really clean. Then I just layed there on the creeper with my flashlight and the blazer running waiting for it to leak. As soon as the oil gets up to full temperature, it started running out dead center under the rear main, and everything looks dry around the rear cover.

I can't believe it.... I've changed rear main seals in probably a half dozen engines and have never had a leak before. One thing I did notice is that my Carquest brand rear main replacement looked "cheaper" than the GM seal. When I do pull the trans and get to it, I will be replacing it with a GM seal.
 
sorry to hear that man, what a pain in the ass! Getting everything running just to have to take it all back out again sucks. Hopefully it all goes smoothly.
 
More problems. I noticed when I first got the engine running I had a P0134 and P0154 codes which said there was no response from the 02 sensors. I kind of brushed it off and figured that it had to do with the fact I was running the engine with open headers and the 02's were right at the opening of the collector. Well, after installing my Edge Evolution and being able to now get better diagnostics, those two codes are not going away after being cleared. I tried changing the o2's out for new ones and no change, and also the system will not go into closed loop mode. I am able to watch that on my Edge and at 200* and revved up the system stays open loop.

Possible problems:

I do NOT have 02's from a 2004 2500 GM truck with a 6L, that has a triangular plug, I have a square plug 02.

Something is wrong with the computer

Something is not wired right in the harness and the sensors are not getting power. The fuse in the fuse block for the 02's is fine.

I have talked to Pacific fab yesterday and am working with them on this, I may just throw in the towel, park the K5 and this whole project for now, and haul the K5 to Pacific Fab this summer when I have more time available.
 
Man, that's gotta be frustrating. So much for plug and play.
 
Yea, wtf? I would probably first test for power and ground at the connector. If you have both and they are in the right spot, maybe new o2s.
 
y5mgisi said:
Yea, wtf? I would probably first test for power and ground at the connector. If you have both and they are in the right spot, maybe new o2s.
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I checked, I have 12v on one wire, nothing on one wire, and 4.90v on the last 2.

I tried a pair of Bosch 13474 O2's in it, but I don't think they are the right ones. They use a square plug like mine, but they plugged in upside down. I don't know what o2's I have.
 
Okay, a little research reveals Pacific Fab did not use a 6.0L o2 sensor. 6L engines only use the triangle plugged 02's. (#2 in picture). My harness and o2's are #3 in the pic, for 4.8L and 5.3L engines. This shouldn't be an issue though as I believe the only real difference is the actual plug, not the sensor, regardless that info would have been nice.

image_1.gif





This is the 02 I have.


http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-213-1702-Original-Equipment-Heated/dp/B000C9NJR0

I am leaning towards that I have another computer problem. My 6L will NOT go into closed loop mode period, just stays in open loop. I believe that IF I had 2 bad 02's, it would still attempt to go closed loop. And..... what are the chances I have TWO bad 02's at the same time anyway.
 
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