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RJFguitar's resto-mod - went offroad

Thank you Jason for responding. How is your morning going? Mine you ask? Well I thought the first thing is, is I should go ahead and get that fuel filter changed to rule out that the full throttle popping/possible fuel loss is not due to a dirty filter. Do you remember selling me a new filter? Well I installed it, and the engine wouldn't start. I heard the fuel pump prime, but not sound the same as before, like it had less resistance to it. The engine would only sputer for 1 second and die. Pulled the line off at the rail to make sure fuel was there, yes fuel at the rail when pump comes on. After 30m of thinking I had air locked somewhere, I went ahead and put my old filter back in. It fired right up.

Your fuel filter that you sold me is either defective, or more likely the wrong filter. There is no part number on the filter at all. I either want the correct fuel filter mailed to me, or I want my $50 back.

That was my Saturday morning....
 
Team208, sending you an email shortly.

Robert, Walt is going to call you to confirm a address and send you another filter. Dont normally see them bad out of the box, but we have no problem sending another one. Let me know if this one has issues also. But to confirm, the smaller port is pressure in, larger port is return to tank, port by itself and on opposite side of the pair is out to engine.
 
Team208, sending you an email shortly.

Robert, Walt is going to call you to confirm a address and send you another filter. Dont normally see them bad out of the box, but we have no problem sending another one. Let me know if this one has issues also. But to confirm, the smaller port is pressure in, larger port is return to tank, port by itself and on opposite side of the pair is out to engine.

That is not correct.

Smallest is return. Large on double end is supply from pump. Single end goes to rail.

Dual pump we did for Crawl 4500 LJ. Zip ties are for mock up. Driver port is return. Passenger is supply.


 
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That is not correct.

Smallest is return. Large on double end is supply from pump. Single end goes to rail.

Dual pump we did for Crawl 4500 LJ. Zip ties are for mock up. Driver port is return. Passenger is supply.


For some reason, the PF fuel kit did not come with a standard 33737 corvette filter. They are using a 33100, or something really close to that as their filter and yes Inlet pressure is the smaller 5/16" port, return is 3/8".
 
Agh, the 4 cyl flex fuel filter.... Awesome.

I mean that as, that's a debated filter on whether convenience is worth not running the proven vette filter. It's one adapter fitting different and the same price in the end.

Inconsistent flow/pressure and longevity are always in question of something designed to flow half the fuel of the vette system. Not saying it doesn't work, it would be worth watching pressure as you drive though. Remember higher or lower than what it is tuned for would throw off transient in/out fueling, even 2 PSI is almost 5%. That's the grand canyon in EFI, well something like that.

Then filtration. Vette is 5 micron, flex fuel is 20. If you are running a frame rail pump drawing from tank bottom via dip tube or no screen, its pretty easy to get passed 20 micron. Especially with a turbine style pump.

@blazinzuk, @Russell , how big was the filter we plugged? 30 micron is stuck in my brain...... Chopped foam got all the way to the rails and I chem burned the hell out of my arm fixing in the middle of Vegas to Reno. Then we were done with plugged injectors all because the filter was not small enough micron.
 
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Agh, the 4 cyl flex fuel filter.... Awesome.

I mean that as, that's a debated filter on whether convenience is worth not running the proven vette filter. It's one adapter fitting different and the same price in the end.
I completely agree.
 
I dont honestly remember Josh. That did teach me something. If you have a choice you better use the finer filter.

Doesn't make any sense to me to use anything different than the vette stuff
 
No clue on the filter element micron rating. What I do remember is how much of that foam made it clear through the filter and into the injectors. What a mess... That said, I'd go with the tried and true Corvette filter regulator made either by the OEM AC Delco or a high quality aftermarket provider like WIX.
 
Another filter just showed up on my doorstep from PF. I'll give this one a go as soon as I have a chance. I agree, I'd rather have the corvette filter, why fix what is not broken. I will probably go with it on the next filter change.

On another note, I'm pretty sure my popping and power loss at full throttle is due to a dirty filter. When I pulled the old filter, I drained all of the gas out of it before having to put it back in, and the popping went away for a little while on Saturday, today it's starting to come back. It's the filter.... not a surprise, I had some aged fuel in the tank when I got the 6L running, and probably more so how much fuel this system returns over in a cycle, it's surely to stir up some particulate in a 30yr old tank.

From saturday, nice full throttle pull running perfect.
 
I guess I never got around to updating this thread. I eventually sent the PCM off to Josh and once returned, ran much better. Infact, power felt like I was up another 20HP at least from whatever tuning PF had in there.

I won't go into the details (PM me if you want them) but after a long conversation over this problem plagued swap, I asked if PF would cover the cost of Josh's tuning, since that is what finally fixed the runability issues. They said no and that the engine did run and that they had met their obligation of the product I purchased. They also said what I needed was dyno tuning at an additional cost, if I expected it to run properly as I thought in my mind that it should have. I will just leave it at that.
 
Just figured it'd be good for their name to be close by to the latest developments in case someone doesn't read further back.
 
That's pretty frustrating. I was glad to see PF jump on the thread back in February and try to make good on things, but that is kind of disappointing to pass the buck and say they fulfilled their obligation by getting the truck running. If Team208 was able to get it running right by just reprogramming your computer then why did PF say they need to spend dyno time with it to achieve the same thing (at additional cost)? Seems like they should have offered that dyno time for free considering you would have to make a second trip to them (2 hours each way I think you said), and this was supposed to be a stick it in and go set up.

To be fair, it sounds like you had a fuel filter issue from debris (clogged, slowing down flow), and it's possible the pump needed to be placed closer to the tank for optimal push/pull. But if all Team208 did was retune your computer and now it runs like new then somewhere along the way PF dropped the ball on the original configuration of this plug-and-play set up.

On another note, I've got a question about tire clearance for you. I'm running a 3" body lift now, and I'm about to install 2.5" lift springs giving me a set up like you had talked about going down to at one time. If I can't fit mine in my garage after the 2.5" lift, I'll probably pull that 2.5" lift off and put a 6" lift on, giving me the 9" set up you have. I've been holding on to some new in the box 16x12 Mickey Thompson Classic Locks for 8 years waiting to go on this truck, but I wanted to run a 37" or 38" tire on them. You appear to have all kinds of clearance with your 12" wide wheels and 35x14.50 SSRs, but do you think another 2-3" diameter increase would still clear without much issue? My truck will probably be a pavement princess much like yours since I just repainted it, so I just want clearance to do some serious flexing going in and out of parking lots without having to slow to a crawl each time.
 
That's pretty frustrating. I was glad to see PF jump on the thread back in February and try to make good on things, but that is kind of disappointing to pass the buck and say they fulfilled their obligation by getting the truck running. If Team208 was able to get it running right by just reprogramming your computer then why did PF say they need to spend dyno time with it to achieve the same thing (at additional cost)? Seems like they should have offered that dyno time for free considering you would have to make a second trip to them (2 hours each way I think you said), and this was supposed to be a stick it in and go set up.

To be fair, it sounds like you had a fuel filter issue from debris (clogged, slowing down flow), and it's possible the pump needed to be placed closer to the tank for optimal push/pull. But if all Team208 did was retune your computer and now it runs like new then somewhere along the way PF dropped the ball on the original configuration of this plug-and-play set up.
I tried to leave the explanation pretty vague. I am not going to run them down in a public conversation. But, as I said, I was informed during my last talk with them that I didn't read the fine print in my packet that it's only guaranteed to run and that actual dyno tuning should be expected to make it runable/driveable.

Yes, Josh fixed it. The only mechanical change that was made, per his recommendation, was to set the throttle blade adjustment a couple turns further open. That, combined with his tuning fixed the problem completely. My assumption is, that the IAC in the tuning was way off, as Josh was talking about a page or so back, and that PF put a 5.3 throttle body on when they switched me over to drive by cable from the original DBW setup. It would make sense to me that the throttle blade would be set differently between a 5.3L and 6L. More cubes breath more air across the RPM range, including idle.

Yes, my fuel filter was getting partially plugged. A new filter completely cured my full throttle popping/fuel starving issue. I have no intention to move my pump further back or go in tank, unless I have problems in the future.

All in all, I am very happy at this point. Runability/driveability is way up after getting Josh's tuning and making that slight adjustment to the throttle blade. Josh thinks I am at or at least near 400HP, and it feels like I gained 25HP over the original tune, and my K5 is twice as fast as it ever was with my old 406SBC.

On another note, I've got a question about tire clearance for you. I'm running a 3" body lift now, and I'm about to install 2.5" lift springs giving me a set up like you had talked about going down to at one time. If I can't fit mine in my garage after the 2.5" lift, I'll probably pull that 2.5" lift off and put a 6" lift on, giving me the 9" set up you have. I've been holding on to some new in the box 16x12 Mickey Thompson Classic Locks for 8 years waiting to go on this truck, but I wanted to run a 37" or 38" tire on them. You appear to have all kinds of clearance with your 12" wide wheels and 35x14.50 SSRs, but do you think another 2-3" diameter increase would still clear without much issue? My truck will probably be a pavement princess much like yours since I just repainted it, so I just want clearance to do some serious flexing going in and out of parking lots without having to slow to a crawl each time.

I'm pretty sure I could clear 38's if need be. I almost found out on 37's, I was going to buy a set of 37" Toyo M/T's mounted on 12" Welds a couple years ago, but fell through. I still wish or prefer to have a shorter lift and be back on 33's. Shorter, better handling, huge tires just feel so cumbersome to me. It feels like you're pulling a small trailer around all the time, but you're not.
 
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