Hoot
Registered Member
you should have a SM465 muncie to do it... then its just clutch issue of wearing out. i ran 35's on my 10 bolt, but was scared to go wheelin'... so i upgraded to D60 and 14B FF Rear from M1008 CUCV (1.25 ton).Leper said:
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Running 35x15.5 on 1/2 ton axels and 3.08 gears? Bad Idea?
- Thread starter m1ndless
- Start date
Hoot
Registered Member
there is a calculation for it... new tire size/old tire size * <gear ratio> = new gear ratio. for example 35" divided by 29" * 3.73 = 4.50, well the closest thing to that is a 4:56. That will keep gear ratio as close to stock as possible.obijuan said:
Hoot
Registered Member
well, the stock k5's with sm465 do not have tranny coolers since u can run them cross-country without any gear oil in 'em (i don't recommend doing this, but lazyness happens k?).... but im not sure what the automatic trans-coolers are like for stock k5's.dasanii19 said:
lots of people here sucessfully wheel with stock axles. that mass. dude with the all white stepside w/ a 305HO he wheels his truck pretty damn good. maybe the 305 has something to do with it. but Brians89k5 wheels his pretty good and like all the arizona dudes beat their stockers. check this thread, theres some good stuff there, and some bad. but that goes with big tires and heavy ass trucks. unless you plan on 35+ and or rock crawling, definately upgrade.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198556&highlight=10b+action+pics
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198556&highlight=10b+action+pics
m1ndless
Banned
Those first few pics are kind of scary..alrighty, well I am just going to have to be patient and wait around for some axel deals. I found some ford dana 60's, would those work?
prolly not, theyre driver side drop, but you could go a 241 transfer case and use it but why? your stuff is already good. your jumpin the gun here i think, if it aint broke, break it, but you still gotta break it. run whatcha brung and replace it as time passes, much less expensive seeming.
Is the ring and pinion in the front dif that much harder to change out then the rear?
My father said he has changed out tons of rear ends but never a front dif, he was a little concerned, I told him I would ask on here so here I am asking...
My father said he has changed out tons of rear ends but never a front dif, he was a little concerned, I told him I would ask on here so here I am asking...
Hoot
Registered Member
yes, because the kingpins have to come out so that you can slide the front inner axles out.dasanii19 said:
Should I be interested in any of these 3/4 ton axles? Thanks in advance for the help, I really want to get the show on the road asap but want to do it right!! what do you think?
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/302336452.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/293938317.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/294777005.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/286595801.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/279673158.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/302336452.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/293938317.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/294777005.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/286595801.html
http://reno.craigslist.org/pts/279673158.html
bigdave1050
1/2 ton status
dasanii19 said:
If your in the Reno area why don't you go try pick and pull off of 4th street. They used to have alot of GM parts. Also try the yards over in Carson City. They have a ton of Gm Trucks over there (at least they did back in December) You should be able to get a good deal that way.
I have that planned but wanted my fingers to do the walking first. So none of those axles in the links are a good swap for me? Pick and pull is off greg st. now there might be one off 4th but I dont recall it. anyways, the prices all these guys are asking might be too high but I can always negociate.. None of them sound good?
bigdave1050
1/2 ton status
dasanii19 said:
Your right Greg is correct. Its been a while.
Hoot
Registered Member
dasanii19 said:
what is your vehicle spec's now? 3/4 ton axles are not that much stronger then the 10b's. and do not go for that god forsaken 14b semi-float with 9.5" ring gear. the clips are too weak. you cannot beat the 14b full float rear.
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
choice number 4
supersize75k5
OrganDonorRacing.com
pics are of my old 86 when it was lifted 6 inches plus 1 ich zero rate and 36's on 3/4 tons with 4.10s
500.00 is a fair going rate for somplete 3/4 tons, if they are in good shape and even have new brakes thats a bonus.. clean em up, paint them and slap em on. they will bolt up. Make sure its safe and upgrade as you find needed, things such as cross over, disc rear and such can wait a while. get it up and reliable first.
added bonus is if the gears are 4.10's if so thats a great deal, if they are noit I would wait for some that are alredy the ratio you want to close to it. once you move from 35's to 38's thats a whole differant playing field..things like hight, clearance, steering and gearing all come into play real quick. if it was me I would run 3/4 tons and 35's. later upgrade the steering and such as you can. not to mention 36 inch tsls always look bitching on a full bodied blazer with around 6 inches of lift..
Hoot
Registered Member
dasanii19 said:
you could leave the front the way it is. 12-bolt corp is a bit better then a Dana 44, but not as good a Dana 60... make sure its got 8-lug hubs... Dana 60 fronts are very expensive, but worth it. Just do a 14-Bolt Full Floater for the rear, and you will be set.
Ok, Im going to try for #4 link if they arent already sold... Should I just ask what condition they are in? what other questions should I ask? If all sounds good I will post back up what he says, and will check it out when I go to pick them up.
