RYOKEN HELP !!!!! My Dual Battery Install With Payoff pics (pics updated 2/18/08)

[sandawgk5]

Well I got off my ass and hit the metal bin at work and found some steel for my battery box. We pulled it out and cut it on the shear.



That's right it is 1/8" stainless. It is only stainless because that is all we had no plain carbon steel in anything under 1/4".

I got it tacked up to start with




Pics kinda suck.

Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

I then welded up all of the seams.




And some penetration pics



Not sure if I got enough or not this is my first time welding stainless. I also did not have any stainless wire so it is just 70s-6 carbon mig wire.

Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

Here is where the box is going to go when it is done.

I need to get my lid mounted with some hinges. It is going to be split so it will open toward each end.

Oh yeah polished stainless (on the inside).

And here are a few pics of how I had to rearrange my tuffy box to get everything to fit.



I still need to make a foundation to bolt the box to and get my batteries before I can weld up any of the interior bracing.

It is designed to hold 2 exide orbital marine deep cycle batteries side by side and give me space to mount my acr, marine switch and run all cables inside the box. The dimensions of the box are 18 1/4" X 14 7/8" X 11 3/4".

Dik

 

[RockinChevy]

I'm no expert but the welds look nice. Just going through everybody's "learning to weld" threads makes me wanna try.

 

[tRustyK5]

Looks like you burned it in nicely Ira. you'll have to paint that box now that you've used a carbon steel wire to weld it up with...the welded area will rust otherwise.

Keep the pic's coming as you get it closer to completion!

Rene

 

[sandawgk5]

Looks like you burned it in nicely Ira. you'll have to paint that box now that you've used a carbon steel wire to weld it up with...the welded area will rust otherwise.

Keep the pic's coming as you get it closer to completion!

Rene

Ya I planned on painting it as I could not get stainless wire for this weekend. I am gonna take a flap disc and smooth all of the welds down and clean off the spatter. Do I need to rough the surface to let the primer stick or can I just prime stainless and rattle can the outside? I plan on a hammered grey or somthing like that to resemble my tuffy console.

I also do not know why I got so much spatter I was using solid wire and the metal was cleaned with brake cleen before I started any welding. I guess my wire speed might have been slow or maybe not enough gas. I was at 20 with no wind.

Thanks for the confirmation of the heat. It def got red enough I just wasnt sure how far it would travel.

I will keep this thread updated. I will have to paint the inside also as my foundation and structures will be mild steel also.

Dik

 

[5280k5]

Etch Primers (some 2k)
Self-etching primers are used for bare-metal applications where the user is looking for the ultimate in corrosion protection. They are very low in solids with next to zero filling qualities. Some are even semitransparent. They usually should be followed with a primer, and they should not be top-coated directly with paint. Apply this type of product to aid in adhesion and corrosion protection under other undercoats such as 2k (two-component) urethane or epoxy primers.
An example of a fast-drying, two-component etch primer is DuPont's 22860S. This wash primer maintains excellent corrosion resistance and direct-to-metal adhesion for spot, panel and overall repairs. Most self-etch primers are available in lead- and chromate-free versions.
Benefits of an etch primer:

• Very thin, keeps down film build
• Cost-effective
• Fast application
• Non-sanding
• Super high corrosion protection

 

[sandawgk5]

Etch Primers (some 2k)
Self-etching primers are used for bare-metal applications where the user is looking for the ultimate in corrosion protection. They are very low in solids with next to zero filling qualities. Some are even semitransparent. They usually should be followed with a primer, and they should not be top-coated directly with paint. Apply this type of product to aid in adhesion and corrosion protection under other undercoats such as 2k (two-component) urethane or epoxy primers.
An example of a fast-drying, two-component etch primer is DuPont's 22860S. This wash primer maintains excellent corrosion resistance and direct-to-metal adhesion for spot, panel and overall repairs. Most self-etch primers are available in lead- and chromate-free versions.
Benefits of an etch primer:

• Very thin, keeps down film build
• Cost-effective
• Fast application
• Non-sanding
• Super high corrosion protection

Um I am gonna rattle can this thing so is there anything in a spray can that I could use that will not cost me an arm and a leg?

Can I just shoot it with regular grey primer and shoot a top coat and be done with it? I just wanna keep the welds from rusting and make this thing 1 color.

That stuff up there sounds expensive, thanks for the info though

Dik

 

[tRustyK5]

I'd scuff it up a bit, the use a tremclad primer and brush (or roll) on the hammered grey top coat. Brush on or roll on will give you a thicker layer of paint without having to do 10 coats...

Rene

 

[sandawgk5]

I'd scuff it up a bit, the use a tremclad primer and brush (or roll) on the hammered grey top coat. Brush on or roll on will give you a thicker layer of paint without having to do 10 coats...

Rene

Kewl maybe I should herc it

Dik

 

[5280k5]

Um I am gonna rattle can this thing so is there anything in a spray can that I could use that will not cost me an arm and a leg?

Can I just shoot it with regular grey primer and shoot a top coat and be done with it? I just wanna keep the welds from rusting and make this thing 1 color.

That stuff up there sounds expensive, thanks for the info though

Dik

It's not http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem39683.html
One can lasts awhile b/c you don't spray it on super thick like you would with regular paint, more of just a light dusting. Here's what my bumper looked like after applying it.

 

[AZ79K5Project]

It's not http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/sem39683.html
One can lasts awhile b/c you don't spray it on super thick like you would with regular paint, more of just a light dusting. Here's what my bumper looked like after applying it.

hijack - got any more pics of your bumper? /hijack

 

[5280k5]

hijack - got any more pics of your bumper? /hijack

PM sent

 

[blazin_blazer]

thats what i was thinking...

Kewl maybe I should herc it

Dik

yea,after you hit it w/scotchbrite pad! imo, think it would look good and not scratch as bad as paint

btw, if thats 304 stainless it will rust also, it has enuff carbon in it that a carbon rod works real good,but will also welder higher grade, but splatter more, you can tell w/a magnet...it will have some attraction if 304...if higher grade, magnet won't try to attach, either way the welds look good...really good penetration! when you have a "bead" on oppisite side from weld!

 

[sandawgk5]

yea,after you hit it w/scotchbrite pad! imo, think it would look good and not scratch as bad as paint

btw, if thats 304 stainless it will rust also, it has enuff carbon in it that a carbon rod works real good,but will also welder higher grade, but splatter more, you can tell w/a magnet...it will have some attraction if 304...if higher grade, magnet won't try to attach, either way the welds look good...really good penetration! when you have a "bead" on oppisite side from weld!

Not all are like that. Where the bead is "peaking through" is where there was a slight gap between the two panels, but there is a good "rainbow" (also known as heat effected zone) all the way around all the welds. Magnets do not stick. That made the fabing a little harder as none of my welding magnets could hold the corners square but I am only off by a degree or so on 2 of the corners. Not too bad considering I held it by hand and stuck it . I think it is 308 but it could be a 304L or something (L means low carbon I think). Almost everything we have is 308L.

Here is a drawing of what I am attempting to end up with.



Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

I just got me 9 4" long pieces of 1" SCH 40 pipe to build the legs for my box. Is it overkill? Probably but again it was free.

The legs on the outside perimeter (6 of them) will be 4" long and the center ones will be shorter due to the tranny hump. I am also going to weld backing plates to the body to help spread the weight out so the pipe does not act like a punch on the body. All of the legs will be braced with square tube to get more "triangulation" and help with side to side loads. There will be 80+ pounds in this box and I wanna make sure it stays put.

To attach the box I will use 1/2" grade 8 bolts with locking nuts welded to plates that will be welded to the "legs" of the frame work. This will allow me to remove the box for any reason and also it will make fabing the frame easier.

I plan to tack the legs to the floor of the truck then tack the bracing. Once it is all tacked up I will remove the assembly and fully weld the frame. Attach back to the box and fully weld as much as I can get using the box as a jig, then take it off again and fully weld the whole frame to the floor of the truck. I think it should be pretty stout.

No new pics today but I have the box with me at work to get the hole for the battery switch cut. I do not have a hole saw big enough so we are gonna do it on the mill.

Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

Man I love CNC machines

That is all, pics will be up when I can get home and take some of the "hole"

Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

As promised, some pics of my legs and my hole










































































































The hole was cut on the CNC Bridgeport at work. It is for my Blue Sea dual battery switch, flush mount of course.
outside


inside


all 9


The pipe says astm a-106 that is about the only thing that can be made out on the pieces I have.


Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

I just did a search and astm a-106 is seamless carbon steel pipe for high temp service. I got it from the scrap bin used for weld quals so it is probably for steam pipe welding.

Seamless eh, it should be good enough to hold up some batteries

Dik

 

[sandawgk5]

I was productive at work today and got all of the "legs" for my battery box welded up. It was my first time running a TIG machine, let me say it kicks ass. I was using the Syncrowave 350 we have with a liquid cooled torch.
Damn thing still gets hot.

I will post up some pics when I get to the house. My beads slowly got better and by the 9th one (last one) it looked like I almost knew what I was doing.

Dik