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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

wow, build overload... this really makes the brain gears start smokin...... :smokin2:




my apologies..... :o



now's the time to do the full floor, when i stab the fummins.. no floor, custom tunnel/Kai ramp, yada... rip it all up! :hack: :grind: :weld: :pimp1: :popcorn: :surepal:



box the frame?????? Rob Bonney x-member? I'm leaning against full boxing.. not doing a stooopid H.P/Torque build, so I bet I'll be fine... WAAAAAAY easier too.. I'll have enough labor in the floor, etc as it is.... :screwy:


need to allocate shaft money too... prolly just the rear for a bit..... ORD adapter for the 205... twinstick the f*cker when it's out....... run the driveline brake I have... boy this is a big list... :doah: :doah: :saweet: :pimp: :doah: new PRP's, etc... it ain't going in 18/19 winter... it'll be the following winter.... this coming winter I'll go thru the mill in the LAB™, new gaskets, turbo work, et all ;)


2020 summer, this rig is gonna be pretty fuggin sik... callin myself on that one... ;)
 
Correct. 98 was the split year. Early 98 is p7100 (ppump ) 98.5-2002 was 24 v with the earlier years having the tendency towards 53 blocks.

brain explodes..... wish i could take the mill and sell the rest for $1500.. but i think i'll pull the mint grey interior for eghey and scrap the rest.... it's got a low mileage (87 g) good working 6 spd? auto... is that and the 70 worth anything? or take $400 for weight?
 
K so my .02 being one of the few who have started a project years ago and kept at it and it has not been shelved or still a pile of parts.

Do the least you can do to get the diesel in it.
The frame works fine not being boxed.
The floor works fine not being modded, It may need a 1 inch body lift.
You have a massive project in your basement, it is awesome. It has a ton of work done to it. About half (maybe) is not needed. Is it cool yup, will it ever be done ???
Don't want this to go that route because you "wanted" some mod.
KISS
You can change / add things later.

(p.s. my vote is for the 6 speed, not sure what t-case though.)
 
K so my .02 being one of the few who have started a project years ago and kept at it and it has not been shelved or still a pile of parts.

Do the least you can do to get the diesel in it.
The frame works fine not being boxed.
The floor works fine not being modded, It may need a 1 inch body lift.
You have a massive project in your basement, it is awesome. It has a ton of work done to it. About half (maybe) is not needed. Is it cool yup, will it ever be done ???
Don't want this to go that route because you "wanted" some mod.
KISS
You can change / add things later.

(p.s. my vote is for the 6 speed, not sure what t-case though.)


ooooo, hi! :woot: ;)

don't throw the guilt.. douched myself enough with it tonight.. ;) I'd sell the insanity for the right price.... otherwise it's a damn man cave convo piece... I hate myself.... :haha:


it is what it is.. I'm not gonna box the frame.... it's got both box braces.... is the bonney x-member the best at that point? I'll be ready for custom trans mounting... gonna need a call into Stephen about springs up front too I should plan on... :doah: :whistle:

I'll do it right, but it's gonna be a long process... driveline and exhaust are the current "y" factors currently.. and i wont start till i have an idea, and more importantly, the cash ready for the hit....






right now... I'm looking at, off t he top of my head...

3 g's for mill
nv4500 and clutch.... 3 g's????
ORD adapter $500ish
custom rear 1-piece shaft..
FASS/Bulldog pump, plumbing...



my soul.......


this rig will just kill it, at my funeral...... :saweet: :doah: ;)
 
the other end of what just happened is that all the fuel tank construction just got postponed until i develop a strictly dizzle setup... and add that to the install parts list... should make it a bit easier than dual fuel pickups yada....
 
If the trans is in good shape and you can get a t-case for it that will work just run what ever the dodge has, no reason to reinvent the wheel when the wheel works.
 
If it’s the stock auto it’s a 4 speed. Should be 47rh or 47re not sure when they went electronic on those. The 6 speed wasn’t available in the p pump trucks it would’ve been a nv4500 or auto
 
ok, i kind of thought so... he's not very knowledgeable.. i really didn't care as i know i won't be using it anyway.. thanks...


Ryoken = dizzle overload tonight.. ;)
 
If finding a Diesel NV4500 proves to be very hard there’s always the ZF5/ZF6 option. If I go Cummins in my 79 someday it’ll be a ZF for sure
 
By far the easiest route to go is a gm nv4500 from 96 and newer. It accepts the Cummins input shaft and makes it a dodge front half. Then you have a 32 spline output shaft and you can bolt your 205 to that with a short 32 spline input gear. No adapter needed.

Also 85 and up factory crossmember works just fine with the Chevy version of the nv4500 tcase adapter. Too easy.
 
By far the easiest route to go is a gm nv4500 from 96 and newer. It accepts the Cummins input shaft and makes it a dodge front half. Then you have a 32 spline output shaft and you can bolt your 205 to that with a short 32 spline input gear. No adapter needed.
.


so basically i have to fully disassemble the 4500 and put the dizzle front shaft in.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/FITS-NV450...820495&hash=item1c79f1cd08:g:k64AAOSw4CFYqxnU what do you mean by "short input gear"? in the 205?

i was originally thinking from my other thread the easiest would be a dodge box and run that ORD adapter/29 spline 205 input... i'm gonna be going thru the 205 anyway for twin sticking, etc...

Female%2029%20Spline%20205%20Input.JPG
 
The input shaft takes 10 minutes to install. The rear output shaft is total disassembly.
There are two 32 spline input gears. 84 and older short and 85 and newer long snout.
Top of the page here
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/NP205 Parts.htm

The short input gear will be less expensive than the kit you linked because you don't need the aluminum ring.

It all depends on what trains you end up getting a deal on but I broke it down for myself and that's what I chose for cost, no unique adapter parts, and ease of building within my capabilities.
 
The input shaft takes 10 minutes to install. The rear output shaft is total disassembly.
There are two 32 spline input gears. 84 and older short and 85 and newer long snout.
Top of the page here
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/NP205 Parts.htm

The short input gear will be less expensive than the kit you linked because you don't need the aluminum ring.

It all depends on what trains you end up getting a deal on but I broke it down for myself and that's what I chose for cost, no unique adapter parts, and ease of building within my capabilities.

cool....

yeah, my cursory look at 4500's is a bunch of new/rebuilt stuff on eghey for around 2 'g in all flavors.... i'm guessing the used market is prolly like $800 to 1200 for unknown... i'm not opposed to going thru a box myself for a rebuild/fifth gear and dodge front shaft, but i have to figure by the time i get a used box, the shaft, rebuild kit/fifth gear, I may almost have that in it.. might be better off just nutting up 2 g's or so for something done and ready to go to my specs....


my immediate list for funding is stoopid..

mill = check
misc mill stuff, gaskets, etc
bellhousing - $200 to 400
clutch - SB single like $500, 600 i also see SB has a hydro slave setup... and a front shaft too...

4500 = ??????????
input gear, rebuild and twin stick kit for the 205
shaft work
exhaust

new front springs....... hopefully I don't end up needing a rad or intercooler.....



not sure if I'm just gonna let the rig sit on the side of the house till fall, or put it right out front, rip out what i want, and scrap the rest quick.... definitely want the mill in the LAB™ for over the winter...

i think it has a mint grey uncracked dash in it... guessing thats prolly the only interior part of any value.. is that low mileage 4 spd worth trying to sell?
 
Yes guys are always grenading their trans and needing a quick working used trans to get the truck running again. Can also recommend valair clutch’s. I had a full ceramic single in my 6 speed and that thing held up to some abuse great. You probably could by with a organic/ceramic single and get good feel.
 
Super excited to see the next phase of this build! Crazy when i remember seeing this truck in original form when Issam owned it.
 
Yes guys are always grenading their trans and needing a quick working used trans to get the truck running again. Can also recommend valair clutch’s. I had a full ceramic single in my 6 speed and that thing held up to some abuse great. You probably could by with a organic/ceramic single and get good feel.


noted, thanks...... that's a whole other subject i know nothing about that i'll have to look at, disc materials and such.... like I said, pretty mild build in the end.. eventually I'd like to bump it up to 450, 500 and a grand torque... but i definitely want a street friendly clutch...
 
I would get a built trans already done. You want this to go under 6 months. Building a trans is just going to drain you for time. It's just nice to have warranty on a part like that.
Advance adapters has the best deal on the bellhousing kit. Its OEM replacement. I bet @swettysblazer can get you that for a good price.
If you use a Chevy 32 spline output shaft, use a Chevy tcase adapter. If you go 29 spline, you'll use the dodge adapter. Chevy bolts and fits better.

Do not use southbend hydraulics with Chevy pedals. I suggest avoid parts confusion and get crewcab59s kit. It already figured out.

Your low mile auto trans is honestly likely at the end of its lifespan. It is not worth much.

Save the second gen radiator, shroud, intercooler and piping. I am choosing to adapt that to my core support so the coolant hoses and fan depth and reservoirs appear well thought out and off the fenderwells. My preference.
Crewcab59 has a recipe to use a small block radiator.

And by the way, it's been your month for a couple months now.

20180622_103003.jpg
 

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