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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

Overview Gallery Discussion
Greg72 said:
I'm just jealous about that whole "I make $2/hr" thing...... :haha:



Pretty sure I'm in the $0.05/hr payscale. You rich 1%'ers really piss me off.

:D


-G
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Says the guy who just bought a Dynasty while Paul is borrowing money for Argon. :p: :thumb:
 
folkenheath said:
Says the guy who just bought a Dynasty while Paul is borrowing money for Argon. :p: :thumb:
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Touche! :waytogo:

However, this is a clear illustration of why I must continue to work at my "real" job instead of EVER trying to make a living in some sort of motorsports / fabrication-type endeavor.

Fun hobbies COST money, and usually a LOT of it. :doah:


-G
 
let's work mine out here...... :pimp:

ruff stuff get's $35 for some standard bent perches for axles... and I'm guessing his material cost is about $.43 a piece... labor, I'll guess 8 minutes to run em thru the machines... give or take, $150 an hr... :bow:

my costs, eh, maybe a buck in material each and 4 hr's.. it was actually longer, but we'll say 4...

that's $8.25 an hr!!!! :woot: woohoo minimum wage baby! :doah: :haha:
 
ryoken said:
let's work mine out here...... :pimp:

ruff stuff get's $35 for some standard bent perches for axles... and I'm guessing his material cost is about $.43 a piece... labor, I'll guess 8 minutes to run em thru the machines... give or take, $150 an hr... :bow:

my costs, eh, maybe a buck in material each and 4 hr's.. it was actually longer, but we'll say 4...

that's $8.25 an hr!!!! :woot: woohoo minimum wage baby! :doah: :haha:
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Now pay for your affordable health care act from that and you are down to $6.25 then add in the taxes to pay on that down to $4.75. Argon here cost $40 for a 20 refill so if you work 10 hours at your rate it comes out at a bottle of argon and a sammich a day.......:haha:
 
For a period in my early 20's, I considered making a living by turning wrenches or some type of fabrication. At that time I was already working as a mechanic, and I can say I enjoyed it and was making good money. One afternoon I was at a buddies who builds transmissions for his own shop. He's a very respected builder whose opinion on most things mechanical I trust to this day. Anyway.. on this particular day, Wayne had built a powerglide for a customer. The powerglide cost X amount of dollars and the guy was complaining how he was broke because he had to pay his motor guy, etc, etc, and wanted to make payments to Wayne. Shortly after the powerglide customer left, another one who had a minivan came in and paid 2 times the amount as mr. powerglide without missing a beat, thanked Wayne for fixing his van, and left.

The point to my story was I then realized that I would never try and get into any type of custom work. If I was to make any real money as a mechanic, stick with throwing parts at people commuter vehicles. Some people have made a good living at custom stuff, but in my opinion, they're few and far between.

I switched careers and go into IT so I can now make .30 cents an hour on nights and weekends making my own junk :-)
 
no doubt...... I'm sure Kert is an outstanding insight into how to be successful in this.... obviously good, fast equipment, a variety of popular, well-designed parts and the ability to do all that in somewhat of a production mode is crucial...

one-off's just would never cut it... just think of what I have in this tubebed, hr-wise.... :doah: I'm already in the 300 to 400 hr range... :pimp:





alrighty... other than getting the appropriate allen headed hardware for the latches, this endeavor is done...


for your CK5 amusement... :popcorn:



http://vid184.photobucket.com/albums/x210/ryoken-ovd/Mutt/100_1542_zpsiptigda8.mp4
 
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westn11 said:
For a period in my early 20's, I considered making a living by turning wrenches or some type of fabrication. At that time I was already working as a mechanic, and I can say I enjoyed it and was making good money. One afternoon I was at a buddies who builds transmissions for his own shop. He's a very respected builder whose opinion on most things mechanical I trust to this day. Anyway.. on this particular day, Wayne had built a powerglide for a customer. The powerglide cost X amount of dollars and the guy was complaining how he was broke because he had to pay his motor guy, etc, etc, and wanted to make payments to Wayne. Shortly after the powerglide customer left, another one who had a minivan came in and paid 2 times the amount as mr. powerglide without missing a beat, thanked Wayne for fixing his van, and left.

The point to my story was I then realized that I would never try and get into any type of custom work. If I was to make any real money as a mechanic, stick with throwing parts at people commuter vehicles. Some people have made a good living at custom stuff, but in my opinion, they're few and far between.

I switched careers and go into IT so I can now make .30 cents an hour on nights and weekends making my own junk :-)
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I know this all too well from working at a resto shop. Guys walk in that you know are loaded and want to hack at the bill over something they wanted done meticulously. I often times wondered how customers could possibly stomach the bills we handed them. For instance we did a 58 vette, engine rebuild, custom mounts, frame rail repair, and Mustang II front suspension install, then painted it. The guy got a bill for like $120,000. It was ludicrous. Should have been maybe a $40,000 job considering the nose and level of paintjob it got.

Ive often times flip flopped on whether I wanted to get into my own custom work. I have the chops for nice clean engine swaps and suspension work. But in the realm of 4wd theres just so many guys doing insanely nice work for a standard shop rate that I could never hang. SAS's, leaf length changes, maybe a 4 or 3 link here or there sure for typical wheeling customer quality. No way I could knock around with guys that have tube chassis and TIG work thrown at everything though. I guess its really a different level though.



ryoken said:
I's aim's to enturtane! :pimp: :haha:
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Im totally stealing that latch setup for the s10s bed. That is certainly slick, I like.
 
thanks boys.... :D

it all started with the thought "this thing should have a little tube tailgate, that would be neat.."

luckily the "engineering on the fly" worked out... I'm very, very happy with the way it operates..

when I start doing all the alum panel work, including the inner on that, I'll make up some new handles for the latches... as you can see from the vid, if they where pointed the other way, it would make it that much easier..







and, like clockwork, finished that, cleaned the Lab™, and Brown Santa shows up bearing tubular gifts.... :woot:






100_1543_zps3506f55a.jpg
 
thanks, I clearanced the pivots so it's a bit smoother now.. it freefalls to the bottom now.. I also think once I put the outer and inner panel on, it'll sound, feel, even more dense/solid...

bent up the first 1.5" with the new 6" CLR die.. gonna work on the others in the morn.. maybe see about getting the 2 main lowers in tomorrow...

I'm so tempted at this point to just say fug it and do the lower tube work... damn bed weighs a metric f*ckton now as it is... it's gotta be 450 lb's.. the C-hoop end is hard to deadlift off the floor now.. might as well add another hundy pounds.... f*ck, Ill drag it out the door when the time comes..... I'll need 4 guys to carry it at this point.. I may break out the engine hoist in the next week or so just to see how feasible it would be to move it with that..

chomping at the bit to get some alum at this point, so I can fit that stuff and weld in the panel mount tabs..... just need to finalize that I think I'm gonna need 2 1/2 sheets of the smooth, instead of 2... and a 1/2 sheet of the diamond plate for the coffin floor...


hmmm, I should go figure out how much weight THAT is... :thinking:

with filled toolboxes and schtuff, this things gonna be well over 1000 lb's easy.. throw in a hundy pound fuel tank and like 350 lb's in fuel too.... :popcorn: :haha:
 
looks like the alum will prolly be like 275 to 300 total.... each sheet is about 110 lb's...
 
Yeah dude just sling it from all 4 corners with the hoist. If you balance it out right and make it so nothing can slip and slide then tilting it on an angle to sneak it out should be a piece of cake.
 
well, it's just getting the boom to that spot... more than likely I'm gonna have to come in from the c-hoop end with the boom fully extended.... obviously that'd be an issue actually putting it on the rig..

but I'm mainly just concerned about getting it out the door at this point.. i'll play around with it over the next couple days and see what it look like..
 
wow, that worked out VERY convenient... :saweet:


the side slider box dimensions worked out to be 30" wide x 30" deep x 7.5" high... hopefully that'll make the purchase/build price a tad bit better than something goofy...


pic update tomorrow...
 
and it looks like my mud flaps should be about 3"s behind the meats... :woot:

good thing I moved em up 1.5".... definitely gonna have to do stiffeners for em..
 
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