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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

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JDNobodi said:
Yes, but you have to wait till the weekend is over.
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whenever bud, no rush on my end.... i'll plan on shipping it during the week one day.... pay me when convenient... send me the addy and i'll get it boxed up...
 
12v in da LAB™.......






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thinking of a stand similar to this...



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gonna put a material list together and hopefully hit up Fazzio over the next week or so for steel...... rain day when I'm off, being they don't do saturdays...
 
obijuank5 said:
This is what I've got for this motor specifically. It works very well for pulling the pump and setting it at whatever degree I needed.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MES31256/1-250-LBS-ROTATING-HEAD-ENGINE-STAND/
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hmmmmm, that's actually not insanely priced... just went thru the steel bin 5 minutes ago... i have every thing to do the one i posted, except the outer frame pieces at the bottom... about 12' of 2 x 4 would do it..

a hand crank does look sweet tho! ;)
 
I wasnt going to take any chances with working with this safely. It can handle but you can still tell it's a damn heavy chunk.

The hand crank is really useful.

My matco got it to me for a little less cash price btw.
 
I've never had the luxury of an engine stand for engines this size in any of the big truck shops I've worked in. We always just did them like you do semi truck engines. We had a stand made out of some angle iron that had basically four little tabs that catch the very ends of the oil pan rail and would work with the pan on or the pan off. You would just set the engine on there and strip it then lift it and pull the pan and then set it back on and finish up. It had enough room to lay down next to it and work on the bottom when needed otherwise we would just flip the engine upside down on some blocks and do the bottom end then flip it back over and do the top end and the rest. It wasn't bad and pretty solid compared to it hanging off the end of an engine stand. The one you posted that bolts to the side of the block is nice and similar to the OTC one that has a handle to rotate but that one you would still need an engine hoist and have to be real careful when spinning it around that the weight doesn't flip it.
 
ryoken said:
oh, hey.... is a crank driven trigger wheel the best way to do these tachs? wondering if that's something I wanna get in there now.. even if i don't get the tach for a while.... price depending of course... all my manual rigs get tachs in the end...

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I think some tachs can pull a signal off the alternator too.
 
Truckman4life said:
I've never had the luxury of an engine stand for engines this size in any of the big truck shops I've worked in. We always just did them like you do semi truck engines. We had a stand made out of some angle iron that had basically four little tabs that catch the very ends of the oil pan rail and would work with the pan on or the pan off. You would just set the engine on there and strip it then lift it and pull the pan and then set it back on and finish up. It had enough room to lay down next to it and work on the bottom when needed otherwise we would just flip the engine upside down on some blocks and do the bottom end then flip it back over and do the top end and the rest. It wasn't bad and pretty solid compared to it hanging off the end of an engine stand. The one you posted that bolts to the side of the block is nice and similar to the OTC one that has a handle to rotate but that one you would still need an engine hoist and have to be real careful when spinning it around that the weight doesn't flip it.
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Yep, I've done some big engine stuff for the farm tractors. No sense wasting monies on an engine stand. That shit is for small blocks. Just flip as needed. It's actually a better/more solid/safer way to do it. Imo.
 
steels in the LAB™.......... I'm doing basically the same as the one i pictured..... to the mounts... want the back open for mocking up the bellhousing, flywheel, etc...

and being this thing is gonna be kicking around the shop for a yr or 2, it's going on a stand... :whistle: decided Gregs killa casters are just too tall for this project, decided to save them for redoing the K5 cart... bought shorter ones...

only sucky part is I don't have any 1.75" DOM left kicking around for the pivots, so I ordered a 3' hunk from Kert....

I'm going with just a pin locking setup...
 
oh, and I wasn't even gonna make it spin.. was gonna do the block mounts from square tube, like my fab table legs.... but I didn't have any of that stuff left.. so i said screw it, make it spin... and it'll just be drilled and pinned for 2 position... I'll have to use the hoist obviously to roll it over.. but I'll only be doing that for the oil pan... i would have been willing to do that upside down easy enough (i do it in the boats all the time), but said screw it, the tube in tube setup works so nice, and it'll be nice to do the pan with gravity on my side for a change.. ;)

all told, I'll have about $150 in materials in it and a days work... gonna go down and cut up the 2 x 4 x 3/16 for the lower frame now... try to get ahead a little bit....


oh, and a good portion of the parts are off the mill already... only thing that has/is giving me a hardtime are the 4 long compressor bolts into the bracket... I need to bring home my bosses barring tool tomorrow so i can get the tc and bellhousing off....
 
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oh, the flags are a go.... stuff's ordered... I've got till oct 20..



wish I had it for tomorrow... :usaflag:
 
hey, what's the standard alt swap most are running to get away from the external voltage regulator?
 
Mines got a nippendenso from a stock Dodge Cummins application that was converted to internally regulated one wire setup and my brother-in-law thinks it is 160 amps. There is a shit ton of alt options for Cummins engines in all kind of applications. Maybe @500$k5 can chime in on alternator selection.
 
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