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Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

Overview Gallery Discussion
From an abrasion standpoint, the grahpite coating holds up really well. Besides the Slip Plate (which I think got a new name recently) there is an identical coating available at places like Tractor Supply. It's in green cans and is called EZ Slide, it can be found in the isle with baler parts and stuff. It's a great coating for frames and springs. I've considered painting a truck with it.
 
easy flipping it... just a bit of an assist from the hoist... it's not too far off balance at all... just a bit top heavy.... 2 guys could do it easily without the hoist...





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bottom is immaculate.. not an spec of sludge, etc in the bottom of the pan...



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once i do the rear seal (which had a small leak) and pan, I'll do a heavy douche of Engine Stor up thru the injector holes and let it drip/chase down the walls and back out the hole or valve.... than I'll flip it back over and reinstall the injectors..





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JoshHefnerX said:
Looks pretty good. Got some skills w/ the spray can!
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it's more about it's durability for me... just to touch on what i mentioned earlier about separate colors and such..

one lesson i've learned as a marine mechanic is, it's VERY beneficial to be able to overcoat the whole mill once parts are installed.. it REALLY makes a difference down the road for overall corrosion spots on a DD in Joysey...... seals everything up nicely... I blasted the outside of the pan, did 2 coats, installed, than 2 more...

a show car or sumfin, I would take a different approach...

trying to figure out if i can afford a tappet cover.. i'd really like to get it so i can reinstall the pump, lines, etc... but I need to snip Kai's nuts this month, sooooooo, we'll see... :haha:
 
obijuank5 said:
Man that crank case is clean. Damn.
Imo spare the balls, get the cover lol
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:haha:



gonna try to sneak em both in...

I need to do it.. he's over 3 now, full grown, and no longer needs them for proper growth.. and tho testicular cancer is only a 10% chance, I want to eliminate that... heck, he's got a girlfriend and has no clue what to do anyway... :haha:
 
well, flipping it back over is gonna be a clusterfug of chains, hoist and come-a-long... stay tuned.... ;)



my kingdom for a friend right now........ the downfalls of being an arsehat..... :doah: :haha:
 
Didn't know that about the over coat, makes sense though.

Just read an article published on NIH website - was by UC Davis. They accumulated vet records from golden retrievers and lab retrievers and found that fixing too early increases chances of joint problems, as the growth rate doesn't stop when it's supposed to. Also increases cancer risks. Waiting too late doesnt hurt the joints but does increase the risk of cancers a bit. The sweet spot seemed to be just after the first heat for females up to about 2 yr. Males 2-3 yr if I remember.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Didn't know that about the over coat, makes sense though.

Just read an article published on NIH website - was by UC Davis. They accumulated vet records from golden retrievers and lab retrievers and found that fixing too early increases chances of joint problems, as the growth rate doesn't stop when it's supposed to. Also increases cancer risks. Waiting too late doesnt hurt the joints but does increase the risk of cancers a bit. The sweet spot seemed to be just after the first heat for females up to about 2 yr. Males 2-3 yr if I remember.
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thanks for the info.... yeah, I'm kinda at the end of the window.. i want to do it while I'm off from work... i don't want to leave him with the cone of shame while i'm at work, so now is the time, don't want to wait another yr... it was important to me to let him fully develop his growth plates... much more important in GSD's and larger dogs than smaller dogs.. it's gonna cost more, mainly due to anesthesia for a 90lb pooch is more.. $650 for the fix thru his regular vet.. prolly another $150 for pre-blood work... but he's my life, soooooooo.... :o


i never realized the overcoat importance till i started repowering boats.. they will show you in short order where your corrosion points are on a repower...

pics tomorrow of the flip-over circus for your entertainment.. ;) :deal:
 
ryoken said:
it's more about it's durability for me... just to touch on what i mentioned earlier about separate colors and such..

one lesson i've learned as a marine mechanic is, it's VERY beneficial to be able to overcoat the whole mill once parts are installed.. it REALLY makes a difference down the road for overall corrosion spots on a DD in Joysey...... seals everything up nicely... I blasted the outside of the pan, did 2 coats, installed, than 2 more...

a show car or sumfin, I would take a different approach...

trying to figure out if i can afford a tappet cover.. i'd really like to get it so i can reinstall the pump, lines, etc... but I need to snip Kai's nuts this month, sooooooo, we'll see... :haha:
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So you paint then the overcoat is another product? I've been watching your stuff for many years now and always appreciate the information you share with the group. I'm not quite ready but a question I've had for a while now is what do you use in place of Ryoken Green now? I'm in California(problem) but something that would be a good rattle can primer for use during fab would be great. Keep in mind while we can't get the good stuff here, we also don't deal with the salt and rust that most do. And whatever you recommend you should point them here and ask for your endorsement check :thumb: I'm sure I wouldn't be the first person to buy something based off of your use/recommendation.
 
dbcorvairracer said:
So you paint then the overcoat is another product? I've been watching your stuff for many years now and always appreciate the information you share with the group. I'm not quite ready but a question I've had for a while now is what do you use in place of Ryoken Green now? I'm in California(problem) but something that would be a good rattle can primer for use during fab would be great. Keep in mind while we can't get the good stuff here, we also don't deal with the salt and rust that most do. And whatever you recommend you should point them here and ask for your endorsement check :thumb: I'm sure I wouldn't be the first person to buy something based off of your use/recommendation.
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thanks, I do appreciate the props.... :) to be honest... I'm in a bit of limbo these days on my approach in some regards... I still feel a good zinc wash, urethane primer, topcoat is the best coating procedure... as opposed to an epoxy/poly approach...

BUT........ it's no longer viable.... good zinc washes are nearly impossible to get anymore, other than marine awlgrip at a $$$ premium.. my rattlecan zinc chromate, a convenient, albeit not as good alternative, is no longer available... even in the rest of non-commufornia world... unfortunately...

alas, I've been forced into the epoxy world.. and that is ok, except the user friendly factor of it.. epoxy pretty much needs to be a 2-part sprayed product.. rattlecans really aren't an option...

how that applies to what I have going on is, this... in yr's gone by, I would have pisscoated the motor with green zinc to give it a bit of etch, than overcoated with the rattlecan Cummins stuff... or a 2-part car paint, Ryo red, Imron, etc.... even a base/clear on show cars... but I haven't committed to a new epoxy that I'm comfortable with for high heat apps yet... so, yup, straight rattlecan enamel over raw steel on this one... but I am considering a quality 2-part clear, maybe Imron, overcoat on the whole mill when done for longevity...

my apologies to peeps like, Greg, Mike, Chief, etc who have followed me down a path of zinc that was doomed... :doah: :dunno: ;)
 
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I’ve still got half a can of that Zinc primer. Need to go shake it.
 
ryoken said:
my apologies to peeps like, Greg, Mike, Chief, etc who have followed me down a path of zinc that was doomed... :doah: :dunno: ;)
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I'm glad it was available when I needed it. Mine is all greened up...wish I would have bought a case while it was still available though
 
Would this be a decent alternative...? :dunno:

It's what I've been using since I can get it locally at the farm & fleet store. I'm sure it's sold elsewhere though. Valspar is sort of a big paint name

shopping.jpeg
 
shady said:
Would this be a decent alternative...? :dunno:

It's what I've been using since I can get it locally at the farm & fleet store. I'm sure it's sold elsewhere though. Valspar is sort of a big paint name

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who knows? ;) i'm pretty certain it has an absolute minimum of zinc in it, which is what makes it actually work, contrary to the label..

it's a VERY VERY slippery slope these days...

all the manny's have been keying on the term "self etching" without the products actually having much of those properties... the power of advertising and all that... :angry1: Fram and Champion have been banking on that chit for decades... Duplicolor, etc can all fall into that too....

I would generally say this.... the first thing about any etching primer is that is needs to be relatively thin.. it's not like a fill primer, epoxy, uro, etc, that has some good body to it... THE best self-etching, 2-part primers in the past are VERY piss thin, and should actually be transparent when done... loading it on, with any of them, isn't a good thing...
 
I know when you spray it on it comes out looking like your spraying straight zinc lol. Drys light gray, but looks like powdered zinc while wet... Order a can and see what you think lol. It's all I use as primer now.

You can definitely tell a difference from normal paint in the smell and when you weld close to it.
 
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