CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's 89 Crew Cab Tubebed build... aka Mutt....

oh, a 25" roll of 2/0 red and black are on the way... be here weds... still need to order the winch wire... stock, it's 3' of 4 gauge.. need to figure out what i need to run for a 10' run on each... i'm thinking it's gonna be 1 g for overkill... 2, would cover it..
 
oh, a 25" roll of 2/0 red and black are on the way... be here weds... still need to order the winch wire... stock, it's 3' of 4 gauge.. need to figure out what i need to run for a 10' run on each... i'm thinking it's gonna be 1 g for overkill... 2, would cover it..
Just to add to your thinking. To get more bendy wires, you could go multiple smaller wires. 2 runs of 2/0 is less resistance than 1 run of 1/0. I don't usually like to run multiple wires to the same place, but if you have several wires in there already, it's not going to change the look significantly and may just solve your problem.
 
Just to add to your thinking. To get more bendy wires, you could go multiple smaller wires. 2 runs of 2/0 is less resistance than 1 run of 1/0. I don't usually like to run multiple wires to the same place, but if you have several wires in there already, it's not going to change the look significantly and may just solve your problem.




the plan is, 4, 2/0... and one, about, 4 gauge wire... (it's 10, 20 gauge wires) i could do 3, 2/0, but I'm gonna do 4 for redundancy....... there will be a "thru-post" on the backwall for a grd.. and an interior power post for bat #2... which is winch and aux panel... that will feed the winch sol pack, etc...
 
Just to add to your thinking. To get more bendy wires, you could go multiple smaller wires. 2 runs of 2/0 is less resistance than 1 run of 1/0. I don't usually like to run multiple wires to the same place, but if you have several wires in there already, it's not going to change the look significantly and may just solve your problem.


oh, and.... this is kind of a big point... if i was going to do the "fixed point", wire only route, 90* bends and such are important.. i was basically, gonna do a 'heated" corner, "set in jig" style setup for each wire.. bundle, and securely fasten at each corner... it's my trick for "fancy boat harness's"...

whereas if i go with the whole track deal.. i would completely change the wire routing and it would all "flow"... and the "movement" of the cables, would be much more gentle and gradual...
 
oh, if anyone thinks this completely psychotic mod needs to be reverse-coursed ASAP..... Palease, suggest that now...... :bow: :bow: :bow:






just like when I took the ex back... :thinking: didn't matter what anyone was gonna tell me, I needed to learn the idiocy for myself.. (and they knew that.... :doah: :doah: :doah:)
 
I have to be amused... :haha: thanks to my dozen boys... :bow: I come up with some oddball idea, and experts on the subject appear... props... :pimp:
 
So, I've been following this build for a while now, and now that you're on a project that I actually know something about, I figured that it's a good time for me to chime in.

I work for a small light jet manufacturer as a harness designer, designing harnesses and large gauge power feeders for use in aircraft.

For harness support, we always use P-Clamps of the mil-spec family MS21919. For elongated clamps, if necessary, we use parts of the NAS1714 family.

For tieing bundles together, we usually use waxed lacing cord, or we wrap the bundles in self-fusing silicon tape, and put a zip tie around that. (The tape is to prevent long-term chaffing damage. It's overkill, but we work with flying death cigars. Overkill is good)

Either way, we tie bundles together at least every 6 to 8 inches.
Frequently, it's more like every 3-4 inches when using lacing cord.



On installation, the harnesses are usually supported via p-clamp or cable tie mount (look up Click-Bond for some very interesting products) at a max of every 24 inches, though it usually ends up with a support every 10 inches or so.

Additionally, whenever we have 2 bundles that must be kept separate, but that follow the same route, we will usually use 2 p-clamps butterflied off each other. This method is also used for securing harness bundles to things like hydraulic tubes.


Another factor to be mindful of for long-term longevity for any wire or cable is bend radius.
The usual rule of thumb we use is a minimum radius of 6 times the diameter of the largest cable or wire in the bundle, as measured on the inner radius of the bundle. (10x is actually preferred, but in practice it can sometimes be a hard number to hit)



Finally, for cables that need to move in the manner you are looking for. Normally we would never allow it haha.


I would consider using a coil though. Come off the chassis at the lower apex, circle the cables up 1 or more times as necessary, and return to the drawer at the bottom apex. The bundles would have to be tied as a pair throughout the coil so as to maintain shape, and be secured at both chassis and drawer side with a clamp of some variety.

If needed, clamps can also be installed at the upper apex of each coil that has a metal cable or spring secured to the roof of the compartment so as to help the coil maintain shape and to support the weight.

That's my 2 cents at least.

Good luck with the project. I look forward to seeing the outcome.
 
oh, and.... this is kind of a big point... if i was going to do the "fixed point", wire only route, 90* bends and such are important.. i was basically, gonna do a 'heated" corner, "set in jig" style setup for each wire.. bundle, and securely fasten at each corner... it's my trick for "fancy boat harness's"...

whereas if i go with the whole track deal.. i would completely change the wire routing and it would all "flow"... and the "movement" of the cables, would be much more gentle and gradual...
Have you considered using welding cable ? its bends nicely and will care plenty of current.
 
Have you considered using welding cable ? its bends nicely and will care plenty of current.


i prefer marine stuff usually, but good thinking..... it has better durability, not quite as flexible, but it does pretty good..... tho i may say otherwise once building this... ;) welding cable does NOT like oil on it.. not always a concern, but it can be up near starters and such...
 
I'd like to see a wiring diagram of what/where things are going.


to elaborate... it's in my head for the most part.. :haha: the tray/box is basically known... there are some cryptic circuit groupings etc jotted down.. but for now, it's all basically to understand what needs to be in various parts of the rigs harness... how many wires from A to C, B to C, yada...

the tray is 2 bat switches with the ACR hooking the 2 together... than you have control wires for each bat switch, and a couple for the ACR... also a couple for the volt gauges...

bat #2 will feed all the "systems" in the box, those will be mounted to the outer walls.. .. rear winch and all aux lights... but always be charged and available to parallel thru the ACR with the push of a button.. there will be a main power post on an interior wall to feed those subsystems from #2... there will also be a "thru-bulkhead " grd post on the backwall of the box.......

it's just what I'm gonna do about main cab systems at this point, I'm not 100% on... basically i need to decide on where my breaker panel is going to be inside the cab..... that will be fed from the starter... what I'm designing now is just the system to supply pos/neg to the 6BT starter/block (temporarily the 454) .. how i feed the cab from there is up in the air... the factory harness is hammered...

and that breaker panel answer hinges on my hemming and hawing about doing the kennel floor... I already know 100% that the K5 gauge bezel is going in this rig... and that may be when i do the dizzle, or VERY soon after... gonna be running full Pro Comps, just changing the trim rings from copper, to Ryo red....
 
Last edited:
oh... I'm sidetracking a bit back to the tank with my focus... want this being built this winter! it's a mental hurdle toward getting the dizzle in... the fuel hose came in and is fuggin perfect.. stoked... ordering another tonight so i can finalize the tank plans as best as i can before getting their input in a few weeks...
 
and the breaker panel decision boils down to the glovebox, like the K5 build, or under the center console floor with the psycho floor/kennel build like intended...
 
may be trying the track in nylon first.. seems like the sizing is much better...
 
i prefer marine stuff usually, but good thinking..... it has better durability, not quite as flexible, but it does pretty good..... tho i may say otherwise once building this... ;) welding cable does NOT like oil on it.. not always a concern, but it can be up near starters and such...
I was thinkin just a short run of the welding cable for your battery tray to your post or battery switch.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom