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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Thanks Ryoken! Man what a mountain the quarter replacements were...it's neat to see it start going back together again.

The parts yard fenders I had sandblasted were not perfect as I thought...one of them is, the other has rust holes in the front bottom and rear bottom...I also have that to deal with.

I am trying to remember if you said to always cut it out and replace it or when it was ok to fill....these are little pinholes looks like a shotgun scatter blast..
 
always keep in mind if it has holes, it will generally be thin in the surrounding area... see how it holds up to the old screwdriver stab test...
 
at some point I need to start thinking about if I need to paint some of the parts before I install them....

interior of fenders
interior of doors?
Valances front and rear
Radiator Core Support etc...
 
Hey Chief,
When I was telling you about shimming the body mounts, you had a small gap at the top, now that you have a bigger gap at the top, you need to remove any shim there and shim at the back and possibly at the firewall area to fold it up and close the gap.
It can be done.
And for it to show you need to bolt the middle ones down and tighten them so they pull the middle down.
 
imiceman44 said:
Hey Chief,
When I was telling you about shimming the body mounts, you had a small gap at the top, now that you have a bigger gap at the top, you need to remove any shim there and shim at the back and possibly at the firewall area to fold it up and close the gap.
It can be done.
And for it to show you need to bolt the middle ones down and tighten them so they pull the middle down.
Click to expand...

X2 on that.
 
imiceman44 said:
Hey Chief,
When I was telling you about shimming the body mounts, you had a small gap at the top, now that you have a bigger gap at the top, you need to remove any shim there and shim at the back and possibly at the firewall area to fold it up and close the gap.
It can be done.
And for it to show you need to bolt the middle ones down and tighten them so they pull the middle down.
Click to expand...


Not sure that's an issue anymore...I spent 2 more hours last night trying to align the door and got nowhere..broke out the new carpenter's square and layed the straightedge on that door...it isn't...at all...top to bottom...

therefore, not at all sure that the quarter is aligned...this is going to be a bear...a may have to buy a junkyard door...for testing

I was able to push the cowl/hinge back far enough that I got a very nice gap between the door and quarter...problem is I couldn't align it to the quarter's outline...either the top is out or the bottom is out...the bodyline matches up perfectly though...
 
Chief Brody said:
I couldn't align it to the quarter's outline...either the top is out or the bottom is out...the bodyline matches up perfectly though...
Click to expand...

If the gap between the door and quarter is too big at the top of the quarter, but is ok at the bottom of the quarter, that means that body shim is too high. On the full convertibles, you align the door so the gap at the bottom between the door and quarter is good, then you add or remove body mount shims in the back to open or close the gap at the top of the door to match the bottom.
 
Chief Brody said:

I was able to push the cowl/hinge back far enough that I got a very nice gap between the door and quarter...problem is I couldn't align it to the quarter's outline...either the top is out or the bottom is out...the bodyline matches up perfectly though...
Click to expand...


Have ya tried the ol' 2x4 between the bottom of the door and jamb thing. Give a little push on the top of the door and it gives you that oh so nice manual alignment look. :whistle:
 
NorCal69 said:
Have ya tried the ol' 2x4 between the bottom of the door and jamb thing. Give a little push on the top of the door and it gives you that oh so nice manual alignment look. :whistle:
Click to expand...

I have tried a 2x4 but not like that...I don't think...you mean put the end of the 2x4 on the bottom door jamb and under the door and push the door into it?
 
Yep, that's what I had to do. It's probably not right, but it works. It shifts that outer skin a little on the door frame. Remember these things are old and you need to make them your Beooottchhh sometimes.. I'd talk to Paul first before ya do it though. Most of the time I don't know what I'm talking about and just did it. Wouldn't want to point ya in the wrong direction.
 
I didn't consult anyone before I did this, so I hope I am not doing something I shouldn't...I went out there with a pencil and a straight edge carpenter square and checked the door for straightness...I found the problem.

Now the question is will the solution work?

You can see in the first picture that the door is straight up high...

Second photo you can see where I had to bend the lip of the door outward with a giant adjustable wrench in order to make the line straight.

Same all the way down from that point.

I cannot imagine what did that to the door...and how was I able to "block" it and not see that?

Anyway, it's real ugly right now because all I had to bend it with was the big wrench....but it is very close to being aligned now.

It will need filler to straighten the door because I don't know how to get the outside skin to pull out at that point....

Guidance please.

DSC_00050001.JPG

DSC_00060002.JPG

DSC_00070003.JPG

DSC_00090005.JPG

DSC_00110006.JPG
 
So was the door curve that bad?
Or did you just do it to match the B pilar?
You could fix this with body filler, but I would try to fix it right.
You will need to get the window out and it's not that easy but you could at least reduce drastically how much filler you will need to put.
:dunno:
 
imiceman44 said:
So was the door curve that bad?
Or did you just do it to match the B pilar?

:dunno:
Click to expand...

I did not do it to match the B Pillar...maybe these pictures show it a little more clear...look at the straight edge back near the center of the door....it is a straight line

The door is gutted...there is no window in it...the front and rear are sandwiched at that point or are at the same location as the where the thick part of the door begins on the back...you know...where the locking mechanism is...

also, it isn't as deep as it looks in the photos...



DSC_00050001_1.JPG

DSC_00070002.JPG

DSC_00090003.JPG
 
well I saw the straight edge from the beginning, and I still don't see in the first pic that the edge is not touching the straight edge, so by bending the edge, did you make any difference in the middle of the door?
I see light in the first couple of pics, but not in the third one, is that what you are talking about?
As for the edge, you can get a spoon right there where the skin meets the inner layer, and hit it, it will push the skin out, if you can get out a bit to reduce the amount of filler it would be better than leaving it like this.
 
imiceman44 said:
well I saw the straight edge from the beginning, and I still don't see in the first pic that the edge is not touching the straight edge, so by bending the edge, did you make any difference in the middle of the door?
I see light in the first couple of pics, but not in the third one, is that what you are talking about?
As for the edge, you can get a spoon right there where the skin meets the inner layer, and hit it, it will push the skin out, if you can get out a bit to reduce the amount of filler it would be better than leaving it like this.
Click to expand...

I will try to get a spoon in there...don't know if I can get my arm in there...and I don't have a spoon dolly...

The middle of the door still has a low spot or two also...the thing that is confusing me is that when I blocked the door and wet it down, it looked fine...I didn't see those low spots...there was no place the block sander didn't scuff either...is it possible to block a slight curve into something because I apparently did it???
 
If I could cut the mitre on the window sail, I would be tempted to just go buy a door if I could find one....
 
When I blocked the door, it literally must have ended up something like this:

Image2.jpg
 
Just went out there and I can just get the spoon to that area...it will have to be done by hand only...there will be no getting a hammer in there....
 
Chief Brody said:
Just went out there and I can just get the spoon to that area...it will have to be done by hand only...there will be no getting a hammer in there....
Click to expand...
well I don't know how comfortable you are with bodywork yet but if you can get the spoon in there and hold it tight, and use a body hammer on the outside and just go around the edges of th elow spot, you'd be surprized how much can be done that way.
You just need to keep some pressure on the inside, just try that tomorrow and see what kind of results you get.
We might end up teaching you body work skills by the time you finish this blazer.
I just can't stand seing all this work and then letting you fill all that gap with body filler, not without at least trying to make it a bit better.:eek1:
 
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