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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
So the lifting of the quarter makes the gap look good...BUT it will not stay that way...I had to jack it up until the tailpan was almost 8 inches off the frame...when I let it back down, it looks a little better...
I put a one inch shim in the 2nd from rear body mount.
Now the very rear mount point needs at least an inch more shim, which would require a longer bolt and the rear end would be uneven...
What to do?
I put a one inch shim in the 2nd from rear body mount.
Now the very rear mount point needs at least an inch more shim, which would require a longer bolt and the rear end would be uneven...
What to do?
Yes I pounded the B pillar and broke the quarter loose at the rocker seam
does the tailgate close? take some pics.... and did you smash/set it at the floor with a sledge/shark/house?
Just got back from lowes...bought a crapload of big thick washers to use as shims..
I did not pound it at the floor...
I will go out and try that...will be back in later
I did not pound it at the floor...
I will go out and try that...will be back in later
It didn't work pounding on the B Pillar, even near the floor...I bent it pretty bad in one spot...it just isn't going to move. The only thing that works is lifting the tailpan...
I got it better than it has been, I also had to raise the tailpan on the driver side to even it out.
Now, the gap got closer on the top of the driver's side too and makes it look like the gap is bigger at the bottom....
They are both pretty good so unless somebody thinks I need to change it, I think I will leave it like it is and maybe do some cosmetic repair like welding some tig rod on the doors to even out the uneven gaps.
The tailgate did not keep straight...I also got to work the driver side quarter outward at the top.
These door gaps are by far the hardest part of this whole build...I don't think anything comes close...nothing has taken the enormous amount of time that this has and continues to do.
I got it better than it has been, I also had to raise the tailpan on the driver side to even it out.
Now, the gap got closer on the top of the driver's side too and makes it look like the gap is bigger at the bottom....
They are both pretty good so unless somebody thinks I need to change it, I think I will leave it like it is and maybe do some cosmetic repair like welding some tig rod on the doors to even out the uneven gaps.
The tailgate did not keep straight...I also got to work the driver side quarter outward at the top.
These door gaps are by far the hardest part of this whole build...I don't think anything comes close...nothing has taken the enormous amount of time that this has and continues to do.
The gaps look great from a distance...it's when you get up on them that they really look uneven...
On the divers side lower, it's actually mostly the quarter that need to be built up to narrow the gap...but the door needs a little too..
On the divers side lower, it's actually mostly the quarter that need to be built up to narrow the gap...but the door needs a little too..
I also ran out of Primer again....got a lot covered:
No problem Chief! Hope that helps... I'd take a pic of what the bolt looks like out, but I don't have one, after 30 plus years they get cut off with a grinder! :doah
Sorry best I can do.
Least of your worries right now anyways.
Good luck man...
No problem Chief! Hope that helps... I'd take a pic of what the bolt looks like out, but I don't have one, after 30 plus years they get cut off with a grinder! :doah
Sorry best I can do.
Least of your worries right now anyways.
Good luck man...
I am going to try brass well nuts...they have a rubber coating for sealing and dampening vibration...at least that's the plan...
Quick question... have you tried to see how things align with the hard top on? I'm curious if your issues may have been from the firewall leaning forward a bit once everything was disassembled?
I haven't read every page (most of them) so you may have covered this.
-Nigel
I haven't read every page (most of them) so you may have covered this.
-Nigel
No...I haven't set the hard top down on it yet...There is a good possibility that not having the 300lb transfer case, the transmission, the fully loaded doors allowed it to lean forward...I hope that installing them doesn't bend it back and mess up my gaps...however...all that weight is bound to pull it down a bit...
I thought they had the tendency to lean inward...without doors...The top is so flexible it probably wouldn't "pull" anything into alignment anyway...maybe I will try it after I get the filler work completed on the door...
It may be worth bolting the top on to see what happens? :-)
I don't have any of the seals for the top of the windshield frame..I broke them removing them...
Are you thinking it will help with alignment, or are you thinking that the top won't fit right anymore?
The only thing I'm thinking is that you may want to check it out before you go too much further? It's your call.
I know it sucks to have another task on the list, but it would be worse if you went to put the top on and then realize that you have to push the firewall forward and you gaps go to hell.
I know it sucks to have another task on the list, but it would be worse if you went to put the top on and then realize that you have to push the firewall forward and you gaps go to hell.
I guess I can drop it on there without the seals and see if the holes line up...
although, not sure how you would bend the firewall forward if you had to....
you where supposed to be hitting the floor when the rear had pressure upward in the back... that is what i meant about it "taking a set"
oh well.... I'm not really sure where your at right now, let me know how I can help...
oh well.... I'm not really sure where your at right now, let me know how I can help...
I was hitting it when the rear was jacked up...with a piece of 4x4 and a sledge hammer. I placed the 4x4 at the bottom and tried...I also placed it mid way up.
No matter how forward I got the B Pillar, it would come right back when I lowered the quarter.
that's the difference between a frame machine and the come-a-long/tree/shark carcass technology... 
generally if you move it double what it needs, and give it a set, it'll stay where you want..
would getting 3/8" of shim in those tailpan mounts help that gap out?
and yeah, you really should get Hooper to give ya a hand with the hardtop...
generally if you move it double what it needs, and give it a set, it'll stay where you want..
would getting 3/8" of shim in those tailpan mounts help that gap out?
and yeah, you really should get Hooper to give ya a hand with the hardtop...
that's the difference between a frame machine and the come-a-long/tree/shark carcass technology...
generally if you move it double what it needs, and give it a set, it'll stay where you want..
would getting 3/8" of shim in those tailpan mounts help that gap out?
and yeah, you really should get Hooper to give ya a hand with the hardtop...
I have larger shims than that in the tailpan mounts...an inch...
If I could "pull" the B Pillar I think I would have better results...maybe...the issue is that you still have to bring the quarter back down...that's why I put the shims in there....
It didn't occur to me that I might be messing up the fitment for the top....
I'm not sure what else 1" in shims at the tailpan might mess up....
Hooper is on the Aurora.....I made the top lifter out his shark cage remnants...I have to move a lot of crap to get to the coggin' handle....what am I looking for? The top should lay right on it and fit perfectly? or was there some moving and flexing with it?
