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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

pfffft... chump change... :rolleyes: :whistle:

I've got around 20 in the pile of parts collecting dust in the Dungeon.... :doah: :pimp:

I got to admit...I didn't think I was up to $12000 yet...but I am...I've not been doing anything for two years now...work...sleep...5 days...work on Blazer...sleep...2 days...that's it...that's all...for two years..:eek1:.
 
Lots of folks only wish they had that ability.

Single...never married...no kids...it's a trade off...it's great cause you get to do what you want to do all the time...not so great in other ways....when you get to my age (47) and single NONE of your friends are on your schedule...they have even grandkids...their time is all taken up by family stuff...they tell you they wish they could be doing what I am doing...but they don't have to get their boss to drive them to the hospital for outpatient surgery....they don't have to cut the grass, do the laundry, clean the house...all the stuff that a wife helps with they got it easier...
course...with those killer sharks out there...it's probably all for the best...
:rolleyes:
 
I had 4 of the same with the K5... and about 3000 hr's...
and just think... your 3000 hours were solid professional hours....mine are filled with a lot of head scratching and running to the computer to ask you what to do :haha:
 
that may be a bit high, it's probably more like 2500.. plus i'll probably do another 1000 on it when I subside from the Mutt build and get back to it..
 
Single...never married...no kids...it's a trade off...it's great cause you get to do what you want to do all the time...not so great in other ways....when you get to my age (47) and single NONE of your friends are on your schedule...they have even grandkids...their time is all taken up by family stuff...they tell you they wish they could be doing what I am doing...but they don't have to get their boss to drive them to the hospital for outpatient surgery....they don't have to cut the grass, do the laundry, clean the house...all the stuff that a wife helps with they got it easier...
course...with those killer sharks out there...it's probably all for the best...
:rolleyes:

Its the definition of a double edge sword.
 
I picked up two replacement fenders today that i want to paint match and cut to fit larger tires. :D They have some minor damage (scrapes, dents, usual minor damage) The pictures make the fenders look WAY better than they are. I promise I am not hacking pristine sheet metal :waytogo:

I was thinking of using a cup brush to strip the paint and bits of rust off the fenders and fender liners. Is this a good plan?

can i just use spray bomb self etching primer after stripping them. then later use a two part sandable primer and finally a single stage paint to match the rest of the truck? I was unsure if mixing the spray can paint with later 2 part paint would cause issues.

any better ideas on stripping them? suggestions on grinders to use for the cup brush and the trimming? i stopped at harbor freight and saw prices from 15-40 dollars for angle grinders. I have no clue where to start when it comes to body work :dunno:

20120714_144859.jpg

20120714_144919.jpg
 
I picked up two replacement fenders today that i want to paint match and cut to fit larger tires. :D They have some minor damage (scrapes, dents, usual minor damage) The pictures make the fenders look WAY better than they are. I promise I am not hacking pristine sheet metal :waytogo:

I was thinking of using a cup brush to strip the paint and bits of rust off the fenders and fender liners. Is this a good plan?

can i just use spray bomb self etching primer after stripping them. then later use a two part sandable primer and finally a single stage paint to match the rest of the truck? I was unsure if mixing the spray can paint with later 2 part paint would cause issues.

any better ideas on stripping them? suggestions on grinders to use for the cup brush and the trimming? i stopped at harbor freight and saw prices from 15-40 dollars for angle grinders. I have no clue where to start when it comes to body work :dunno:

20120714_144859.jpg

20120714_144919.jpg

I'm no expert at this but I'll try to answer just from what I have read. If the paint is solid you can just scruff it. I'm not sure with what grit. There are several ways to remove the paint. If it has rust you want to sandblast for best results to get into the pits. Mechanical sanding using a dual action is ok. I'm not sure what grit to use. There also is chemical stripping. Best to use aircraft stripper. I don't think the cup and brush on a 4 1/2 grinder is recommended unless you have some really bad rust. Soda blasting will take off paint but not any rust unless you put oxide in it. Soda blast also leaves a film. If sandblasting be sure to where a hood and use a good mask. You also need gloves. Spray all bare clean metal with ryoken green zinc chromate. I got mine at a marine store. After this you put on Nasen 2K high fill primer. If you go heavy on the zinc you need to scruff it with 400 grit I believe.

Also there are these style of paint and rust removal below that fit on the 4 1/2 grinder. I find that it works well but they don't last long. There is sand inside the material. Still not as good as sandblasting for rust.
CleanStrip.jpg


http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=296471
 
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that may be a bit high, it's probably more like 2500.. plus i'll probably do another 1000 on it when I subside from the Mutt build and get back to it..

Some of the shops have given me a flat quote $500 for a rear quarter patch panel install and etch prime. No high fill primer or paint. This is not including panel parts. The hourly charge is $50/ per hour. So that is 10hrs a rear quarter. I don't see how it could be done in 10 hrs. There must be a lot of sort cuts.
 
your talking about a patch panel.. I can easily do that in a day... but yes, there are some short cuts that can be taken, and obviously a variety of approaches quality-wise...

2500 in mine is full custom fabrication work, not just some average bodywork..
 
I picked up two replacement fenders today that i want to paint match and cut to fit larger tires. :D They have some minor damage (scrapes, dents, usual minor damage) The pictures make the fenders look WAY better than they are. I promise I am not hacking pristine sheet metal :waytogo:

I was thinking of using a cup brush to strip the paint and bits of rust off the fenders and fender liners. Is this a good plan?

can i just use spray bomb self etching primer after stripping them. then later use a two part sandable primer and finally a single stage paint to match the rest of the truck? I was unsure if mixing the spray can paint with later 2 part paint would cause issues.

any better ideas on stripping them? suggestions on grinders to use for the cup brush and the trimming? i stopped at harbor freight and saw prices from 15-40 dollars for angle grinders. I have no clue where to start when it comes to body work :dunno:




you'll be there for a month with a cup brush.. wire brushes really have no business in a bodyshop...



the green primer you see everyone using is rattlecan... not as good as a 2 part, but it works fine with 2-part fill primers over it....


stripping is usually done with a DA sander and 50 to 80 grit... but there are various methods, and combo's of methods from acid dipping to mediablasting to strippers too...

right now I'm stripping a fender and 2 doors... i start with a liberal douching with aircraft stripper and scraping... than I DA all the area's I can.. and finally I sandblast all the nooks and crannies the sander wont get in to...
 
you'll be there for a month with a cup brush.. wire brushes really have no business in a bodyshop...



the green primer you see everyone using is rattlecan... not as good as a 2 part, but it works fine with 2-part fill primers over it....


stripping is usually done with a DA sander and 50 to 80 grit... but there are various methods, and combo's of methods from acid dipping to mediablasting to strippers too...

right now I'm stripping a fender and 2 doors... i start with a liberal douching with aircraft stripper and scraping... than I DA all the area's I can.. and finally I sandblast all the nooks and crannies the sander wont get in to...

Hmm. Is there an idiot's guide to aircraft stripper? The green primer is just a sealing coat right? Then I can just scuff with a scotch brite before I filler prime? A 50-80 grit da won't leave scratches I the metal will it? unfortunately I don't have access to a media blaster so I am not sure how well I can prep the nooks and crannies.

How important is the zinc spray?
 
I promise I'm not trying to be a Dick or anything, but maybe you should start a new thread? Just think it might work out better that way so as not to start too much of a technical tangent in a thread that has kind of a dedicated direction. Also might get more answers to your specific questions. Either way I'm cool with it. Just wanna make sure we don't inadvertently create two threads in one. Carry on. :waytogo:
 
I promise I'm not trying to be a Dick or anything, but maybe you should start a new thread? Just think it might work out better that way so as not to start too much of a technical tangent in a thread that has kind of a dedicated direction. Also might get more answers to your specific questions. Either way I'm cool with it. Just wanna make sure we don't inadvertently create two threads in one. Carry on. :waytogo:

:o

No problem that's why I posted in here was so there was not yet ANOTHER body work thread lol. If I have any more questions I'll start a new thread.

/Thread jack
 
It's quite the gray area huh? I have found myself wondering which would be the lesser of evils. New thread, or ask in an existing one. I don't know when which is better. That's why I only offered my suggestion. Anyway, now I'm hijacking the thread with this nonsense! Bagh....
 
The answers to all those questions are already in this thread....
how to get paint off a panel
what primer to use
what grit papers to use
what the zinc primer does
why 2 stage is better

I know it's a long, long thread...but that was the whole point...to document the entire process from "I see rust" to "I see shiny new paint"...:waytogo:

This thread is the "Idiot's Guide"....throughout the whole thread I am the "Idiot" and Ryoken is the "Guide"...along with some other great input.
 
I'm really hoping that when It's all done you can put together a condensed version that has all the ins and outs that you have learned but that might only take a few pages, but will go about in a step by step write up style.
 
I'm really hoping that when It's all done you can put together a condensed version that has all the ins and outs that you have learned but that might only take a few pages, but will go about in a step by step write up style.

That's doable...just a matter of editing and rewriting...

I got a forum question....how the heck do you post and have writing before each photo instead of all the writing up top? :dunno:
 
At one point today I was "finished" with the core body inside and out...then I got up on the frame to look down on the windshield frame and saw a ridge that needed to be sanded....I sanded it with 400 and still cut through it...so I had to respray the windshield frame.

DSC_00170004.JPG
 

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