No...I got a killer deal on a DeVilbiss Finishline gun with 3 nozzles...that's their pro-line.
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
No...I got a killer deal on a DeVilbiss Finishline gun with 3 nozzles...that's their pro-line.
How long can the K5 be in etching primer before it needs to be primed?
How long can it be in primer before paint?
Looks like a good gun. Devilbis is a well known brand.
How long can it be in primer before paint?
Looks like a good gun. Devilbis is a well known brand.
I believe the answer is that you can leave something is primer as long as you need to...but the longer it stays in primer the more dirt and contaminants are going to settle on it so you would have to sand it down all over again before painting....
I've been happy with the DeVilbiss startingline...if I had known about this Finishline gun with 3 different size nozzles I would only have had to buy one gun.
proper light coating of zinc chromate is not waterproof and should not be left outside.... many here go heavy with it, and it will hold up ok to weather for a while...
urethane primer can be left outside indefinitely.. but it will oxidize after a couple yrs, and need to be recoated before painting... but it'll hold up outside for a yr or 2 easy enough as long as it's not getting hammered too bad by the sun...
if it is all blocked out, and you let it sit, it will get dirty and stuff on it.. usually a good scuffpadding or light wetsanding will take that right off... but once it chalks up, it'll need a decent sand and recoat...
lacquer primer cannot be left to the elements as it absorbs water.. that doesn't apply to enamel, epoxy or urethane products...
urethane primer can be left outside indefinitely.. but it will oxidize after a couple yrs, and need to be recoated before painting... but it'll hold up outside for a yr or 2 easy enough as long as it's not getting hammered too bad by the sun...
if it is all blocked out, and you let it sit, it will get dirty and stuff on it.. usually a good scuffpadding or light wetsanding will take that right off... but once it chalks up, it'll need a decent sand and recoat...
lacquer primer cannot be left to the elements as it absorbs water.. that doesn't apply to enamel, epoxy or urethane products...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
So Chief, Have you been keeping any kind of track of total spending up to this point?
Guilty as charged
and I knew there must be a more scientific answer....however, I see trucks down here that were primered in 1978 and still never got painted....usually the driver is sucking on a Lucky Strike and a Mikes hard lemonade.....on Monday morning....pulling out of the boobie bar....headed to work....
you have to realize when you see stuff running around in old gray lacquer primer or cheap enamel, that you have no idea what that's over...
most of the times it's over some barely sanded paint, rarely are amateurs stripping, etc... so often it can hold up a LONG LONG time other than oxidizing..
it's ok to run a bit thick on the zinc if your going back in later and scuffing prior to fill primer.... it's so thin, if your scuffing it, ya need a few mil's... but when doing wet on wet it should be piss-thin...
same rule applies to 2-part zinc washes too.... but that's all in the zinc thread i did...
most of the times it's over some barely sanded paint, rarely are amateurs stripping, etc... so often it can hold up a LONG LONG time other than oxidizing..
it's ok to run a bit thick on the zinc if your going back in later and scuffing prior to fill primer.... it's so thin, if your scuffing it, ya need a few mil's... but when doing wet on wet it should be piss-thin...
same rule applies to 2-part zinc washes too.... but that's all in the zinc thread i did...
wet on wet is when you go straight from Ryoken green to 2k primer?
I can pretty well do that by taking the purchase price + shipping and then reading through this thread and the Chapter 1 driveway thread and arrive at a fairly accurate total.
If you include everything...tools, compressor, chemicals, supplies....I can only guess...but I think I am pushing $11,000.00...but I really don't know...
Let's see if I can remember the big things
$4300 Blazer
$1200 Shipping
$ 300 15x8 wheels, blasted and powdercoated
$ 300 Air Compressor
$1000 Quarters, exhaust manifolds, tailpan
$ 600 Mig Welder
$ 900 Transmission and transaxle rebuild
$ 450 4 gallons of Nason Primer
$ 75 1.8 Primer Gun
$ 100 Engine hoist
$ 240 Rochester Quadrajet
$ 800 Tires
---------------------------------------------
$10,265
OH YEAH! I'm probably at $12,000 because I can't even count the number of times i have spent $25 and $50 on parts, emblems, items....
How many hours do you think you have in it? I think for all of us this is more of a hobby and labor of love.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oye. Not to mention you are going to dropping about a grand in paint here in a few. Oh well. What else where you going to spend the money on right? Its your money, why not spend it on something your passionate about!
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That is true.
A big portion of that is sitting on a VISA card....but you gotta keep rolling with this...if you stop you might never finish...
correct.. allow the zinc to flash dry, than go right to fill primer..
I am approaching 1,400 hours
before you say what?!? remember that I have done almost every step of the way twice if not three times...while learning...
I have worked full days on it every weekend for two years...and every other spare minute that I could put on it...I have taken vacation and stayed home and worked on it...
if you look, I don't think there is a lag anywhere in this thread...
pfffft... chump change...
I've got around 20 in the pile of parts collecting dust in the Dungeon....
It's about the same as having a new truck payment...instead I am feeding it into the Blazer...I don't have any car payments...the Ranger has long since been paid off...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You either arent married, have an extremely understanding wife, or in a loveless relationship. Either way it affords you plenty of time to focus!
