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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

yeah, you need to do whatever you need to get that door moved back and keep it level with the rocker.. that's all you should be thinking about... so fender off, and get those hinges bolts undone.. but mark/scribe everything thoroughly first so you know where your working from originally...
 
was the other side the same?

how does the body line line up over the length of the rig, with say some masking tape?

did this have the qrters cut off with no supports and questionable rocker boxes? how does the door catch the striker, in the middle, out at the edge, etc?

you should be able to take a big carpenters square off the rocker and go up the jam and remain square, but I'm guessing the qrter is way bent in for this... sheesh....

might be salvagable with a portapower.. but that door needs to move back, irrregardless of where that qrter is, if the gap becomes too tight, the qrter needs to move.. which is basically what's gotta happen, unless you try to redo the front qrter edge... which technically isn't correct, but could be a last resort...
 
was the other side the same?

No...I always had trouble with the drivers side


how does the body line line up over the length of the rig, with say some masking tape?

Body lines are reasonably straight...that was my main focus. I am sure they are not perfect



did this have the qrters cut off with no supports and questionable rocker boxes? how does the door catch the striker, in the middle, out at the edge, etc?

Yes I cut the quarters off with no supports...I was trying to bend the b pillars a little and message them into place as I put the quarters back on. Do you remember the trouble I had with the Drivers side quarter not able to get the bottom part to fit...



you should be able to take a big carpenters square off the rocker and go up the jam and remain square, but I'm guessing the qrter is way bent in for this... sheesh....

I will go out and try that in a few minutes



might be salvagable with a portapower.. but that door needs to move back, irrregardless of where that qrter is, if the gap becomes too tight, the qrter needs to move.. which is basically what's gotta happen, unless you try to redo the front qrter edge... which technically isn't correct, but could be a last resort...

what the heck is a portapower?
 
show me where it's marking the striker as it's closed....
 
what the heck is a portapower?

I've got the 10 ton version of that. Be glad to loan it to you, but it weighs about as much as it will push when you go to pick it up........

Not that bad, of course, but I hauled it down to the camp to straighten a bend winch mount, and I thought my hip was going to give up on me as I was trying to load it into the truck.

So, there is not much chance of shipping it to you.

If you were going shark fishing off the Panama City Beach Pier, I'd meet you somewhere.
 
just take a close up of that striker from the side.. i'm looking for how far in or out it's catching the door latch..




door20striker2000_zpsaf59e6c4.jpg
 
You can see that they are square....the bottom of the quarter "bevels" away at a 45 degree angle...I had to "press" the quarter into place in that spot...the half inch 90 degree "lip" of the quarter gets shoved into about a 40 degree angle...thus the outer sharp edge of the quarter is about a quarter inch behind where it should be. This is the part I could never figure out...I cut the quarter....I sledgehammered the B-pillar...nothing worked...and the original was the same way...it had that 40 degree angle on the lip too...

2013-02-09_zpsbb974675.jpg 2013-02-09_1_zps2b7cbbfa.jpg
 
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OK...I see what you are getting at....I got 5 washers on there and it still strikes close to the front


2013-02-09_2_zps3117de1b.jpg
 
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ok, that's good..






I think :haha:

it mean's the door coming back substantially will have it catching properly.. and it means this is not a b-post problem.. so no portapower... but the leading edge, qrter sheetmetal... something didn't drop down in place in back or something.. the top of the qrter needs to go back, but not the post...

so you say the bottom of the qrter lip was not tight to the b-post, was the top?.. that is what needs to happen.. that top gap needs to be as wide as the bottom, and the door moved back..
 
see, that is not square... it's not the bottom thats beveled in at an angle.. it's the top of the qrter that is angled in......
 
see, that is not square... it's not the bottom thats beveled in at an angle.. it's the top of the qrter that is angled in......

Not sure how to explain this...if you walked up to the door like you were about to open the door...you would be facing exactly the other side of the truck.

If you were to look straight down the leading edge of the quarter panel the top would be a perfect 90 degrees....somewhere past the mid point lower down the 90 degree angle starts to open into a 130 or 135 degree angle...

gap.jpg
 
that doesn't mean anything at this point.. from the side it is not 90 degrees from the top of the door down to the rocker.. and that is your problem behind all of this...

when you put the qrter on, and had holes drilled in that forward lip, how did it fit on the b-post?
 
that doesn't mean anything at this point.. from the side it is not 90 degrees from the top of the door down to the rocker.. and that is your problem behind all of this...

when you put the qrter on, and had holes drilled in that forward lip, how did it fit on the b-post?

The top fit great...the bottom never would...I ended up leveraging the bottom in with a 2x4 and tacking it..
 
What you aren't seeing in my "square picture" is the inermost part of the lip is square..you are looking at the leading edge on the outside but not seeing where the lip edge is on the inside....if the quarter weren't there, the B Pillar would be square
 
right.. which is what the striker indicates, which is why I asked you the last question...

it's the top of the qrter that is the problem, NOT the bottom......
 
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