put some up of the ps side seam/back gap...
how is the qrter gap, obviously it still looks huge down low.. how is it up top?
how is the qrter gap, obviously it still looks huge down low.. how is it up top?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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OK...it's good up top I could measure it and compare
Be right back with photos
OK here's the driver's side...Actually, it could stand to be opened up a little. But it's never going to match the almost 1/2 inch gap at the bottom.
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Let me know when you are ready for the passenger side...it is a little funky...gaps too tight up front...tight at the bottom on the ps and bigger at the top...just the opposite problem of the other side 
all I'm concerned with on the other side at this point is the bottom... the door to rocker gaps front and rear so I can compare what we have going on..
once I can verify the door is where it's supposed to be, i'll figure out how to correct the qrter gap...
my biggest issue at this point is apparently the qrter is welded incorrectly to the b-post....
could you drill out/chisel,bust the spotwelds on the front lip of the qrter?
once I can verify the door is where it's supposed to be, i'll figure out how to correct the qrter gap...
my biggest issue at this point is apparently the qrter is welded incorrectly to the b-post....
could you drill out/chisel,bust the spotwelds on the front lip of the qrter?
OK..gonna go ahead and post pics of passenger side:
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Will have to get a spot weld cutter bit...I used mine up on the bed floor...
Just the lip? or also on the inside on the B Pillar?
What's your idea after busting the quarter loose?
.....
you said, you had to force it over with a 2x4?
if the qrter lip will "come back" to where it was, we could probably get the post tweaked back at the bottom too... reweld it, yada...
is the top of the door passable, or too tight?
if the qrter lip will "come back" to where it was, we could probably get the post tweaked back at the bottom too... reweld it, yada...
is the top of the door passable, or too tight?
To me the top of the door is passable.
I used a 2x4 with one end on the driveway and pushed upward to make the quarter as tight as I could while driving a sheet metal screw into the quarter, then tacked with welder
the quarter bottom never would fit over the B Pillar correctly...it was always just "behind" the B Pillar...I sledged the B Pillar... I pounded it...I tried everything to get it to fit...and this was before I ever put a bolt in it anywhere...it was just placed on and I did everything to try to make that bottom fit...as I said...even the original panel that came off had that same problem...the only wiggle room I have to lower the rear of that quarter is to remove the rearmost body mount
well. it's a bit late to be trying to shift the qrter.. i have a sneaky suspension that whole "giant whitey crushed my tailpan" thing has something to do with this..
f*ck it, just redynaglass the bottom of the gap... the door is back enough now where you can have a clean correct seam seal on the rocker now... just don't load that joint up again..
f*ck it, just redynaglass the bottom of the gap... the door is back enough now where you can have a clean correct seam seal on the rocker now... just don't load that joint up again..
are you sure there is room to Dynaglass the bottom without it looking funky?
what would happen if I popped the welds loose on that outer quarter jamb lip and removed the rear body mount and tried to get the bottom of the quarter to come forward? That rear mount is maybe an inch or inch and a half thick
should I leave the fender off for now?
keep in mind you have tailgate gaps to deal with too...
the rear mounts are both stock components? no triple spacer shims or anything?
the rear mounts are both stock components? no triple spacer shims or anything?
