Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[ryoken]

the last thing you should be worrying about is the fender... get the door good to the rocker/qrter... than deal with the fender...

the minute you start shifting the door around to correct for the fender, you're f*cked...

same as the other side, door to rocker, than door to qrter... finally fender to door...

 

[Chief Brody]

that means the fender has go to come off the passenger side just like the drivers side...on this side the door need to come forward at least 1/8 inch

 

[ryoken]

yup... ya gotta do what ya gotta do...

it looks like you can finish off the ds and get that reprimed now at least...

 

[Chief Brody]

yup... ya gotta do what ya gotta do...

it looks like you can finish off the ds and get that reprimed now at least...

I think I will wait till after I get the passenger side set and then do all the filler work and sanding...

There is still something not right about the hood gaps too...they should be a little closer together...but that's another story...

I had that core support sandblasted...I swear it is an original or at least a replacement from the early years....yet the fenders don't seem to come inward enough at the gaps...looks like they are touching all the surfaces though...it's an odd thing...

 

[Chief Brody]

is it possible that the passenger fender I got out of the parts yard just has a slightly different "arc" or "bow" than the door?

 

[ryoken]

it shouldn't.. don't get ahead of yourself, one step at a time...

 

[Chief Brody]

Well I took the passenger fender off and tried to work the door...no dice.

I busted the quarter panel loose and will mess with it tomorrow.

Quarter lip was thin as tin foil in one spot where I had ground the weld...now I have a 3 inch piece of the lip missing...gonna have to put a piece back in there...will require an edge weld...sucks

The grinder got away from me with a 36 grit flap wheel and the edge got my left index finger got a 1/4 inch strip of flesh from knuckle to knuckle...but...could've been a lot worse.

 

[ryoken]

fight thru it brudda, you'll win in the end...

I wont be around till monday..

 

[Chief Brody]

Fix a problem....gain a problem....

I pointed it towards that tree so I could get the come-a-long on the B-Pillar



I drilled two holes in the B Pillar and threaded some aircraft cable through it and attached it to the come-a-long.



I tightened it while also jacking up the rear end...I actually got it to move forward about a half inch but it tore loose the upper part of the quarter panel.
I had to rebuild it using the welder




I must have welded for two hours....but I finally got all the holes and cracks welded...looks nasty in this pic

 

[Chief Brody]

After grinding the welds down and sanding the jamb, I spread Dynaglas all up and down that jamb area

 

[Chief Brody]

I heaped it on there good...gonna let it dry till next weekend

Bottom gap is good

Rear gap will be good

Front gap is the problem I now have. The middle of the fender is bulging way out from the door. The top of the fender and door are even.....the bottom of the fender and rocker are even...
But the middle is curved way out too far...not sure what to do....

And I can't get the fender bottom to go all the way back and meet the rocker pinch weld....

 

[ryoken]

so the door/fender gap is relatively even top to bottom, it's just the fender bulges out in the middle? if so, see about getting a pic showing down the side to show how much...

sometimes you can "flatten" the back bend out of the back of a fender a bit if needed.. never tried it on one of these tho... let's see how much it needs first... you may need shims at the fender bottom, if it's drawing it "up" when you tighten it...

 

[Chevy305]

Loosen the bottom fender bolt then push on the middle of the fender with your body while tightening the bolt.

 

[Chief Brody]

so the door/fender gap is relatively even top to bottom, it's just the fender bulges out in the middle? if so, see about getting a pic showing down the side to show how much...

sometimes you can "flatten" the back bend out of the back of a fender a bit if needed.. never tried it on one of these tho... let's see how much it needs first... you may need shims at the fender bottom, if it's drawing it "up" when you tighten it...

I will get a pic...

The bottom does not just fit flush...I have to push it in to get the bolt started

And I had to use a 2x4 to pry the bottom backwards to get it closer to the rocker...something isn't right.

 

[Chief Brody]

Loosen the bottom fender bolt then push on the middle of the fender with your body while tightening the bolt.

impossible for one person...would have to rig something

 

[ryoken]

I will get a pic...

The bottom does not just fit flush...I have to push it in to get the bolt started

And I had to use a 2x4 to pry the bottom backwards to get it closer to the rocker...something isn't right.

and that is with every other bolt loose, up front, etc? it sounds almost as if that side of the rad support is up a bit if it's not allowing the fender to come back at the bottom...

I was having a brainfart on our bottom back fender mounting... some fenders bolt "up" into the cowl, vertical, and without shims a fender will sometimes draw up and bow out....

but after refreshing my memory on Mutt, I remembered it bolts "in" to the cowl, so that couldn't be the case... on most vehicles that is a common spot for a couple of shims, Mutt has a few there.. obviously it sounds like your having the opposite issue...

how was the fender coming off the junkyard truck?: clean and straight on there? almost sounds like it's got a bit of a twist going on...

when you install, get your back bolts in first threaded a few turns before you try to get any holes lined up at the rad support... matter of fact, you can try just install the rear 3 bolts and getting the door gap reasonable without even f*cking with the front bolts initially....

 

[Chief Brody]

and that is with every other bolt loose, up front, etc?

No...I put the two cowl bolts in and the the core support bolts because I can't shut the door unless I tug the top of the core support forward.

but after refreshing my memory on Mutt, I remembered it bolts "in" to the cowl, so that couldn't be the case... on most vehicles that is a common spot for a couple of shims, Mutt has a few there.. obviously it sounds like your having the opposite issue...

Mine requires a couple shims in the door jamb. I had a shim under the verticle one but left it off this time...the body line lined up without it.

how was the fender coming off the junkyard truck?: clean and straight on there? almost sounds like it's got a bit of a twist going on...

I don't remember exactly...I thought it looked good...could be wrong

when you install, get your back bolts in first threaded a few turns before you try to get any holes lined up at the rad support... matter of fact, you can try just install the rear 3 bolts and getting the door gap reasonable without even f*cking with the front bolts initially....

I will try this...hope I can get the fender to fit onto the core support if I do it this way.

 

[ryoken]

so, wait, does the back bottom fender bolt go vertically up thru the fender lip/flange, or is it like the post 80 stuff and bolt parallel to the ground?

if it's vertical, than that may be the issue i mentioned earlier.. with the top bolts tightened, than tightening the bottom without proper shims, can bow the middle out...

 

[Chief Brody]

so, wait, does the back bottom fender bolt go vertically up thru the fender lip/flange, or is it like the post 80 stuff and bolt parallel to the ground?

The bottom bolt is "sideways" or parallel to the ground

 

[ryoken]

ok, so it's like sec gens, disregard the bow comments than...... too bad the rad support is actually there, I often will mount fenders with just the back bolts to see how they will/can align to the doors...