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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
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- ryoken green
What do paint shops have now days for covering your wheels while painting? 
I don't want my new snow white wheels to have yellow dust all over them...
I don't want my new snow white wheels to have yellow dust all over them...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
they sell these burlap-y, fabric ones that have like a 3/4 diameter wire sewn into em.. most body supply places get em easy enough...
garbage bag..
garbage bag..
Complete washout with rain all weekend...got nothing done 
I got just a little more sanding to do, need to spot the floorboard again where I opened it and then it is ready to go to the paint shop and have the body guy give it the punch list.
If I may interrupt for a moment, I have a question for Paul.
I've picked up the step side bed for my 00 Sierra and was wondering what you would reccomend to strip the factory base/clear paint off it? The kid I bought it from didn't sand or anything, just rattle canned some grey primer over it and it is now flaking off. The bed sides are fiberglass and I don't want to use something that would upset the bonding agent in it.
I've picked up the step side bed for my 00 Sierra and was wondering what you would reccomend to strip the factory base/clear paint off it? The kid I bought it from didn't sand or anything, just rattle canned some grey primer over it and it is now flaking off. The bed sides are fiberglass and I don't want to use something that would upset the bonding agent in it.
well, if you actually want to remove the rattlecan AND the factory base/clear, you can chemically strip it with an aircraft stripper type product for fiberglass... it's just a bit milder, your local autobody supply place will have it..
but you are committing at that point to totally removing the finish.. ya just wanna make sure to neutralize after stripping.. and obviously that's only gonna remove 90%, you'll still need to go in and sand some..
or, you can forego stripper, and mechanically remove it with sandpaper from the get go... this allows you to stop at any depth you want.. but be very aware, it is not steel and can cause low spots, etc very easily with sanders, grinders, etc if you are not careful and watching your layers and what your removing from where.....
but you are committing at that point to totally removing the finish.. ya just wanna make sure to neutralize after stripping.. and obviously that's only gonna remove 90%, you'll still need to go in and sand some..
or, you can forego stripper, and mechanically remove it with sandpaper from the get go... this allows you to stop at any depth you want.. but be very aware, it is not steel and can cause low spots, etc very easily with sanders, grinders, etc if you are not careful and watching your layers and what your removing from where.....
I don't have access tocany kind of air powered sanders at my house. All I have is an angle grinder and didn't want to use that. I don't know that I need to get the factory paint off do I? Just the rattle can and then rough the factory paint till a good primer will stick, correct? It doesn't have to be perfect either, it is going on a 270k mile work truck with dents and dings already. A perfect bed on it would look a little out of place, I just don't want to be able to wash the paint off at a car wash.
just wetsand the primer off with some 220ish to the factory finish... sand that till you have no shine anywhere, prime/paint... try to x-block it as much as possible with a sanding block, but some handsanding is fine too... just be careful of "finger cuts" when handsanding....
1 paint job on factory paint is fine... many paint jobs, not so good..
now, why the guy primed it? you'll find out....
1 paint job on factory paint is fine... many paint jobs, not so good..
now, why the guy primed it? you'll find out....
What do you mean "x block"?
As for why he primed it, there was a little damage on the passenger side that he showed me before I got it. That, and it was a gold 90's bed mounted behind a blue 70's cab because he couldn't find a decent 73-87 step side bed in this area.
He now has a 80's CC long bed on 44's and his sister was tired of the bed sitting in her yard.
As for why he primed it, there was a little damage on the passenger side that he showed me before I got it. That, and it was a gold 90's bed mounted behind a blue 70's cab because he couldn't find a decent 73-87 step side bed in this area.
He now has a 80's CC long bed on 44's and his sister was tired of the bed sitting in her yard.
ya sand in a cross hatch pattern.. there's actually a paint diagram toward the beginning of this thread that I made to show Chiefy.... ya sand at one angle a bunch of times, than you go 90 degrees to that...
here..
here..
Thanks Paul, I'm hoping to get started this weekend. I've gotta read up on wet sanding some to make sure I've got what I need to do it. There isn't a supplier locally for auto body stuff, so I'm going to have to do some searching on that too.
http://www.google.com/shopping/prod...=Le5_UbnHNubA0AHwjYGoCg&sqi=2&ved=0CF0Q8wIwAQ
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sweat equity
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all good.....
feel free to pm me if ya have ANY questions...
+
+
sweat equity
=
all good.....
feel free to pm me if ya have ANY questions...
Another weekend, another complete washout...nearly 3 inches of rain...and cold...plus I worked all day for my job...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well at least you werent at work on a nice day like i am!
Work is killing me...I am working evening and weekends...but I managed to get a few hours in today. I painted the floor where I had to go in and replace the cage nut.
Then I used the seam sealer and filled in the quarter / rocker expansion joints.
Whew! Been working on getting those fixed an in seam sealer since December. Can you believe we are in mid May already???
It's ready to go to the paint shop now for a once over and a quote. I've got it as good as I can get it...they are going to have to finish it off and make a fix list to get their paintable surface.
BEFORE
AFTER
Then I used the seam sealer and filled in the quarter / rocker expansion joints.
Whew! Been working on getting those fixed an in seam sealer since December. Can you believe we are in mid May already???
It's ready to go to the paint shop now for a once over and a quote. I've got it as good as I can get it...they are going to have to finish it off and make a fix list to get their paintable surface.
BEFORE
AFTER
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I got a hard edge on that paint, but I don't care...it's the floor and it will be covered by carpet....it's amazing how "dirty" the old paint gets...
Amazing job! Don't panic about the weather and work... it will be worth it in the end! 
