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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

I would do the post/acorn nut at either end of the doors.. and than try to get at least one on each fender and qrter.. but that's me...

My fenders already have holes because they are oem, the doors do too.

The quarters are the only things that had no holes
 
My expensive glazing compound has thickened to a paste consistency. Is there anything I can mix with it to thin it out a little? I only need a thimble full
 
you can see how it mixes up with a smidge of thinner... you wont need much...
 
About the molding, on the quarters, there is only 2 or 3 clips. the rest is spots of double sided tape. Remember my "body work thread" i did on my red/white blazer where the tape had pulled away taking paint with it?
 
This thread. Not sure if 73-79 are all the same but i imagine they are.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297531

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So two clips, one screw, eight tape spots.
 
FWIW, I remember an article many years ago where the automakers were all switching to tape or glue exclusively to hold on trim to stop rust caused by the clip holes.

Since you are fighting rust anyway, if there is a way to adapt to clip-less, it might be a good way to go.
All the trim on my '89 250 is held on by some kind of double sided tape.

Some kind of a piece that goes in the trim where the clips go and gives a flat surface for the tape would do it.
Just make darn sure you are ready for the trim before you put it on.

If you had to remove it, and it pulled the paint off, it would not be bad.
Just a dab of primer and put the trim back on over the spot.
 
I figure his was early enough that it was all clip originally... late 70's is more when they started on the tape gig... I figure after 75.. at least that's the route the cars took..

prior tho it was all the stud clips and the ones that slid over the rivets.. than you lifted up and out to get the moldings off..

the tape is by far much more user friendly fo sure if that's the option now..
 
I figure his was early enough that it was all clip originally... late 70's is more when they started on the tape gig... I figure after 75.. at least that's the route the cars took..

prior tho it was all the stud clips and the ones that slid over the rivets.. than you lifted up and out to get the moldings off..

the tape is by far much more user friendly fo sure if that's the option now..

The weird thing is, if the posts are so bad to rust why are all the holes on my junkyard fenders still in great shape?
 
because it's a different clip.. the holes (clips with studs) don't rust.. the rivet posts do rust due to the clips scratching the paint off the rivet/stud...
 
because it's a different clip.. the holes (clips with studs) don't rust.. the rivet posts do rust due to the clips scratching the paint off the rivet/stud...

ahhh...so the rivet posts must have stopped before 1974....
 
OK...I figured it out.

GM used the rivets until 1972 EXCEPT they used them till 1974 only on the base Camaro and Pontiac Firebird...only on the rear panels
 
I sandblasted my entire frame and rust bulleted it. This was in prep for a body rebuild. It has been sitting for 2 years since I applied the rust bullet and rust has come through in only a couple of spots. I think that is only because the sprayer I was using was crap.

So all in all I am very pleased with how the rust bullet is holding up.
 
I popped the hood yesterday and can you believe the brake master cylinder has red rust dust on the top and clip???? Already!!! :dunno:
 
:haha:

I was kidding.....

naval jelly is for cleaning, not preserving... shoulda spritzed some clear on em when good, whatever they where..
 

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