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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

buffer and compound/polish...

Which brings me full circle...the not so cheap piece of crap polisher I got at HF burned up....but do you think I can handle the cut and buff to get rid of nibs...I would really hate to burn through the paint...
 
Which brings me full circle...the not so cheap piece of crap polisher I got at HF burned up....but do you think I can handle the cut and buff to get rid of nibs...I would really hate to burn through the paint...

Use a foam pad for extra safety?
 
wonder if the foam will cut enough to get rid of the nibs?
 
I'd let it dry till the winter/spring before you do anything.. let all the materials shrink as much as they're going to.....


and ummmm, that's a tough question for me to answer... any painter will want to sand/buff his own work.. whenever he can.. you know what kinda coats you put on, the issues, etc...

if you really just wanna baby it, you could do a spot 1200/1500 sand and polish on it to at least knock em down some... noob's can tape off bodylines with painters tape... flats, unless your sanding the pee out of it, or the clear is thin, you wont go thru..

there are MULTIPLE ways/approaches to cut and buff.. if orange peel is balls on, you can just go around and spot sand dust.. always go longer with the finer paper, than the initial, so your guaranteed to be polishing the finer scratches..

whereas if you wanna pull some peel too, you'll spotsand with the course grit on nib's first, than block out the whole panel with the finer grit...
 
ahh, the foamies....

yes, they are safer... they don't create the heat that wools do... are they as effective, not nearly... it's that heat that a wool pad creates that does a lot of the work and what produces superior finishes...

it's a slower process with foam's due to that... and foam pads lend themselves MUCH more to waxing, light polishing and swirl removal. not white or orange compound removing wetsand scratches...

yes, it can be done tho..
 
sometimes... I am personally not a fan of clay bars.. that's just me, like I said, oldschool.. some people really like em..
 
I've never used em on fresh paint, that would be my fear...... it depends on what "kind" of dust/imperfections they are...
 
"Eyes" back on for the first time in a long, long time:

2013-08-23_zps91c1b851.jpg 2013-08-23_1_zps573db1d5.jpg 2013-08-23_2_zps2c0015b9.jpg 2013-08-23_4_zps08c80d0d.jpg 2013-08-23_5_zpsb4bc9efe.jpg
 
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nice! It's amazing how much difference the headlights make. Your baby is coming together bro!
 
Chief- That Blazer looks AWESOME! I've been following this thread for a long time now, and because I can't really add any useful knowledge, haven't commented until now.
You are inspiring me to get off my a$$ and start on my '89....

Keep up the great work!
 
A little different look for the Blazer...

2013-08-25_6_zps755a9dbe.jpg 2013-08-25_5_zps78fa7b20.jpg 2013-08-25_3_zps8784e4b9.jpg 2013-08-25_4_zps86bbdcee.jpg 2013-08-25_2_zpseea1c471.jpg 2013-08-25_zps4e131c55.jpg
 
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I'm having a hard time getting the trim on...there are these round holes in the fenders to put a ratchet through but they don't line up with the trim nut.

Is there a special trim tool that I don't know about? :dunno:
 
damn, truck looks really nice man. must be really nice to have everything clean and perfect!!

All the trim is old...I just polished it all before I put it back on...the tailgate band has a ding in it, but you cannot get bands for the 73-74 anywhere...and the Chevrolet emblem is unique to those years too...it has the "ring" all the way around the word Chevrolet.
 

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