Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[Malathion]

I think that the new ones just aren't quite as big as the old ones...quality control crap

The same thing happened on my 74. Not sure what to do. Can't really tack it in place once it's painted. Not sure if the white PVC tape wrapped on the threads would hold and I don't think you can put a nut on it. I removed the vent assembly thinking I could get to it but I couldn't reach in far enough to start the nut.

Please figure it out so I can add it to the other 1001 thing I learned reading this thread.

 

[ryoken]

it'd get tight with Teflon tape, prob there is you lose the ground...

you could try the wire trick... take a short section of like 12 or 10 g wire, strip like an inch off the end, insert in hole against side, install switch, than snip the exposed wire flush once tight....

 

[Malathion]

it'd get tight with Teflon tape, prob there is you lose the ground...

Great point. Totally forgot it was grounded to the cab/body.

 

[y5mgisi]

I was thinking a heli coil or maybe even a nutsert like the mirrors mount to.

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

Back to the Cap, please... I am near done except for paint on my 1988 K5. The cap is currently black, and dull and scratched.

I use crushed glass as my medium for sand blasting. Would it be ok to blast the cap using the superfine glass beads? It looks finer than sand to me.

I was thinking that since it is fiberglass I would not have to worry about warping. The inside is white but I don't know if that is paint or the natural color.

Your Thoughts Please!!!!

 

[ryoken]

glass can be sandblasted, with any media really... an experienced eye/blaster is recommended to keep an even cut...

we blast boat bottoms all the time... with everything from baking soda, to nasty 00 course sand depending on what your trying to do..

 

[85 Jimmy]

Back to the Cap, please... I am near done except for paint on my 1988 K5. The cap is currently black, and dull and scratched.

I use crushed glass as my medium for sand blasting. Would it be ok to blast the cap using the superfine glass beads? It looks finer than sand to me.

I was thinking that since it is fiberglass I would not have to worry about warping. The inside is white but I don't know if that is paint or the natural color.

Your Thoughts Please!!!!

When I get around to painting my top my plan is to scuff it with a red scotch bright pad and soapy water, then rinse with clean water, let it dry, and prime and paint.

But like I said in my other post, the paint on my top is faded in some spots so bad that there's no paint and you can see the bare fiberglass. It's not peeling or anything.

 

[ryoken]

if you have actually dry hairs showing, your gonna wanna resin saturate it and sand it before primer...

 

[85 Jimmy]

if you have actually dry hairs showing, your gonna wanna resin saturate it and sand it before primer...

I can see the hairs that are in resin, they aren't poking out or anything. Should I still coat it with resin and sand before I prime?

 

[ryoken]

as long as they aren't "dry" and sticking out, meaning the primer will cover/bury anything, your fine.. just sand and prime...

 

[Chief Brody]

What kind of paint on a flexible top like mine? not totally flexible but it bends a lot when you move it

 

[Chief Brody]

I am very pleased with how the passenger door panel turned out...it's actually a little cleaner than the drivers side.


Oh and the kick panels are in

 

[Chief Brody]

And for the cherry on top





I only wish I could get a tag that had the letters stamped in.

 

[y5mgisi]

Very cool!

 

[ryoken]

What kind of paint on a flexible top like mine? not totally flexible but it bends a lot when you move it

any modern primer or urethane paint is fine... if your overly concerned, you can add a flex additive..

 

[THEMCGUIRE]

Just saw this on Craigs List

Thought you may be interested in seeing this craigslist (they are asking 11,000...

http://newyork.craigslist.org/jsy/ctd/4144068800.html

 

[Craig Artzner]

Wow that's clean!

 

[Chief Brody]

a two wheel drive at that...it does look clean...the 76 still had the same look of the 73-75

 

[Chief Brody]

small update...The door jamb plunger switchers were correct...it's just that they are made with "barrel shaped" threads...I don't know why...I had to back them out to the midway point and they are very snug....I had to tap them with a hammer to adjust the plunger depth.

 

[Chief Brody]

Also, on my transfer case shifter, the knob thread was too big...I've been wondering what I would do to get it to fit....finally something actually worked the first time....
I have a Heli-Coil kit I bought way back when I first got the Blazer to fix a stripped out water-neck bolt. The kit was only one size....not a variety.

I tapped the shift knob and put the heli-coil in and it fit!!! Perfectly.