couple quick pics of the newly re-upholstered seats
Outstanding Chief, looks great.
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
Outstanding Chief, looks great.
got the rear seat today...had a great drive to work...man was it beautiful in Amity
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I guess giant rain-filled collapsing spraybooths and dusty sandstorms from he!! are just a nasty memory to the neighbors and all these days huh? 
rig looks great...
rig looks great...
I guess giant rain-filled collapsing spraybooths and dusty sandstorms from he!! are just a nasty memory to the neighbors and all these days huh?
rig looks great...
Thanks! Yeah...the neighbors get a reprieve...until they get pelted with fiberglass dust.
And I intend to spray the cap myself this time....I can do it...I know now not to build a greenhouse
Wow! So awesome, Chief. I just finally got to the end of the thread.
Now, what is the best way to prep the bed and interior of the body for bedliner?
And, If I was planning on repainting the body down the road, will already installed bedliner pose a problem?
Now, what is the best way to prep the bed and interior of the body for bedliner?
And, If I was planning on repainting the body down the road, will already installed bedliner pose a problem?
Outstanding!
That's a question for Paul (Ryoken)
sand factory paint to 180 to 220 grit.... no shine! use either course steel wool or a maroon scuff pad after hitting everything by machine/hand to get the nooks/crannies.....
any bare, sand-thru spots hit with a bit of primer.. sand primer with 220/scuffpad...
blow out.. damp/dry with paper towels and denatured alcohol.. line-o-way!
any bare, sand-thru spots hit with a bit of primer.. sand primer with 220/scuffpad...
blow out.. damp/dry with paper towels and denatured alcohol.. line-o-way!
oh, and I should actually read... 
bedliner isn't an issue on the interior as long as proper cleaning/masking techniques are used to keep overspray off it...often, the liner is actually done last for crispness in materials and masking lines...... but either can be made to work.. easier to mask painted metal, as opposed to linered metal... the catalyzed liners are usually fine being painted later if prepped..
bedliner isn't an issue on the interior as long as proper cleaning/masking techniques are used to keep overspray off it...often, the liner is actually done last for crispness in materials and masking lines...... but either can be made to work.. easier to mask painted metal, as opposed to linered metal... the catalyzed liners are usually fine being painted later if prepped..
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Looks great chief!
If I ever get a crew cab, it will be the crew cab version of this truck. Only surely not as nice! But I will do all the same paint scheme and interior work as you have done!
If I ever get a crew cab, it will be the crew cab version of this truck. Only surely not as nice! But I will do all the same paint scheme and interior work as you have done!
Thanks guys for making this dream come true....obviously Paul...but it is finally reaching the point where when I drove it to work and parked it in the parking lot, I literally stared at it all day...I thought "My God that looks just like Brody's Blazer from my favorite movie, and I can't believe that I actually own it".
I also got to say that I am almost in disbelief of how good it drives. I had it up to 70 on the interstate in a high wind and did not have to fight it....I know for a fact that I could probably take it to 80, 90 maybe more with complete stability.
The skinny tires are more stable than the big ones. It did take almost 1/4 tank of gas to drive to work and to the Custom Shop...that's not good gas mileage.
I also want to say how much I appreciate this forum and the moderators...I know that this wasn't really a "stock restoration" forum but everybody welcomed me and encouraged me all along the way. It means a lot to me to have been able to actually do the work with your help and to be able to talk shop when people talk to me when I stop at a red light...
More than the Jaws dream, I have developed a love for the history of these vehicles..so I am as much intrigued by the Chevrolet / GM heritage of my Blazer as I am the "movie truck" aspect.
I really love this forum and intend to remain a member for a long time...there are many members on here that I consider to be "friends" even though we only meet here in the forums. I really think about you guys and care what is going on in your lives even if it is like reading a daily newspaper update.
I'm not drunk, I am just high on my truck right now and realize that I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS without this CK5 Forum...and that is the God's honest truth.
So...as the violin stops playing...get crackin'...there's still work to be done.
I'm not done with this yet...and the ultimate thank you for this thread would be for me to post photos, lots of them, when I drive it to Edgartown in Martha's Vineyard. There is a lot of logistics to work out...funds...and myself to overcome the fact that I have never been anywhere outside of Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia and Florida.
I want a photo of my Blazer on the Amity On Time II Ferry....and I want to be the one to take it
I also got to say that I am almost in disbelief of how good it drives. I had it up to 70 on the interstate in a high wind and did not have to fight it....I know for a fact that I could probably take it to 80, 90 maybe more with complete stability.
The skinny tires are more stable than the big ones. It did take almost 1/4 tank of gas to drive to work and to the Custom Shop...that's not good gas mileage.
I also want to say how much I appreciate this forum and the moderators...I know that this wasn't really a "stock restoration" forum but everybody welcomed me and encouraged me all along the way. It means a lot to me to have been able to actually do the work with your help and to be able to talk shop when people talk to me when I stop at a red light...
More than the Jaws dream, I have developed a love for the history of these vehicles..so I am as much intrigued by the Chevrolet / GM heritage of my Blazer as I am the "movie truck" aspect.
I really love this forum and intend to remain a member for a long time...there are many members on here that I consider to be "friends" even though we only meet here in the forums. I really think about you guys and care what is going on in your lives even if it is like reading a daily newspaper update.
I'm not drunk, I am just high on my truck right now and realize that I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS without this CK5 Forum...and that is the God's honest truth.
So...as the violin stops playing...get crackin'...there's still work to be done.
I'm not done with this yet...and the ultimate thank you for this thread would be for me to post photos, lots of them, when I drive it to Edgartown in Martha's Vineyard. There is a lot of logistics to work out...funds...and myself to overcome the fact that I have never been anywhere outside of Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia and Florida.
I want a photo of my Blazer on the Amity On Time II Ferry....and I want to be the one to take it
Need a like button.. Great post.
Thanks guys for making this dream come true....obviously Paul...but it is finally reaching the point where when I drove it to work and parked it in the parking lot, I literally stared at it all day...I thought "My God that looks just like Brody's Blazer from my favorite movie, and I can't believe that I actually own it".
I also got to say that I am almost in disbelief of how good it drives. I had it up to 70 on the interstate in a high wind and did not have to fight it....I know for a fact that I could probably take it to 80, 90 maybe more with complete stability.
The skinny tires are more stable than the big ones. It did take almost 1/4 tank of gas to drive to work and to the Custom Shop...that's not good gas mileage.
I also want to say how much I appreciate this forum and the moderators...I know that this wasn't really a "stock restoration" forum but everybody welcomed me and encouraged me all along the way. It means a lot to me to have been able to actually do the work with your help and to be able to talk shop when people talk to me when I stop at a red light...
More than the Jaws dream, I have developed a love for the history of these vehicles..so I am as much intrigued by the Chevrolet / GM heritage of my Blazer as I am the "movie truck" aspect.
I really love this forum and intend to remain a member for a long time...there are many members on here that I consider to be "friends" even though we only meet here in the forums. I really think about you guys and care what is going on in your lives even if it is like reading a daily newspaper update.
I'm not drunk, I am just high on my truck right now and realize that I COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS without this CK5 Forum...and that is the God's honest truth.
So...as the violin stops playing...get crackin'...there's still work to be done.
I'm not done with this yet...and the ultimate thank you for this thread would be for me to post photos, lots of them, when I drive it to Edgartown in Martha's Vineyard. There is a lot of logistics to work out...funds...and myself to overcome the fact that I have never been anywhere outside of Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia and Florida.
I want a photo of my Blazer on the Amity On Time II Ferry....and I want to be the one to take it
you, made the vision a reality... I, moreso than many, can certainly appreciate that..
props!
There is a lot of logistics to work out...funds...and myself to overcome the fact that I have never been anywhere outside of Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, Georgia and Florida.
I want a photo of my Blazer on the Amity On Time II Ferry....and I want to be the one to take it
The best thing you can do is to stop thinking of it as something you WANT to do, and start thinking of it as something you are GOING to do!!!
I was dreaming of doing a Moab trip "someday"...and of course never had any sort of plan to get there. One day I finally made the switch in my brain, from a guy who was dreaming to a guy who was actually GOING.
As soon as that happened, the plan to get there became straightforward.... I was finally able to plan the steps, budget and schedule. As I "worked the list" it became clear that I was going to finally be wheeling in Moab!
You can do it. Commit to yourself, and it will happen.
-G
What's the best way to get the paint out of inside corners where a DA sander won't reach? Right now I am stripping the bed. With a fresh sanding disc, I can get the edge into these corners, but that edge wears out quickly. Later I will need to strip areas where the sander cant even get to. How should I go about that?
The plan is to strip the interior, to bare metal on the floors and interior wheel wells. And to take it down to the original coat of paint on the sides and other areas that don't see foot/cargo traffic, and then use a truck bed liner on the whole interior.
The plan is to strip the interior, to bare metal on the floors and interior wheel wells. And to take it down to the original coat of paint on the sides and other areas that don't see foot/cargo traffic, and then use a truck bed liner on the whole interior.
well, few ways to go... obviously blasting will do the best job... the way I integrate blasting, is to do what you're doing, mechanical strip as much as I possibly can with a DA, etc, than blast.. that way you're keeping your blasting to an absolute minimum.. than re-DA after stripped for an even cut..
couple other options are also once it's down to the nooks and crannies to use a bit of aircraft stripper, scrape, wire brush/wheel... than re-DA...
also remember that rotary tools will strip too, everything from a DA locked out, to rolocs... rolocs totally rule... a 2" or 3" setup will rip right thru that...
just keep in mind, primers, paints, etc work better over a dual action cut, than a rotary cut... so if you use a rotary to get the corner, it's always a good idea to go back over with a DA to get a proper "cut" to as much of it as you can...
also... just as an aside to this, from a guy who has run a DA eleventy thousand hr's... the way I usually go about sanding to utilize my paper to it's fullest is to, fresh sheet, absolutely flatpad it till the middle of the paper shows some wear, bigger flatter areas usually... than begin to finish off the paper by creating angle... finish off by edging into tight areas like these..
and I've said it a few times, but I'll repeat myself.. the most durable, toughest, longest lasting topcoats are created by a system... each time you remove a level of the system, you increase the % of possible premature failure.....
good primer and bedliner? ok...... good primer system, a proper urethane topcoat, THAN a bedliner? FAR FAR superior... is bedliner over primer an automatic fail? of course not... but it's not as bulletproof as over a quality paint...
couple other options are also once it's down to the nooks and crannies to use a bit of aircraft stripper, scrape, wire brush/wheel... than re-DA...
also remember that rotary tools will strip too, everything from a DA locked out, to rolocs... rolocs totally rule... a 2" or 3" setup will rip right thru that...
just keep in mind, primers, paints, etc work better over a dual action cut, than a rotary cut... so if you use a rotary to get the corner, it's always a good idea to go back over with a DA to get a proper "cut" to as much of it as you can...
also... just as an aside to this, from a guy who has run a DA eleventy thousand hr's... the way I usually go about sanding to utilize my paper to it's fullest is to, fresh sheet, absolutely flatpad it till the middle of the paper shows some wear, bigger flatter areas usually... than begin to finish off the paper by creating angle... finish off by edging into tight areas like these..
and I've said it a few times, but I'll repeat myself.. the most durable, toughest, longest lasting topcoats are created by a system... each time you remove a level of the system, you increase the % of possible premature failure.....
good primer and bedliner? ok...... good primer system, a proper urethane topcoat, THAN a bedliner? FAR FAR superior... is bedliner over primer an automatic fail? of course not... but it's not as bulletproof as over a quality paint...
Thanks Ryoken. I have a 2" roloc setup with a 90* die grinder for my compressor. I didn't even think of trying that. Derp. I will end up buying a sandblaster because I want to take care of that area along the front off the bed where it meets the foot well, as well as the rust pitting in spots along the bed floor.
One of the previous owners put a custom carpet kit in and used a plethora (Do joo know what a plethora ees?) of sheet metal screws to secure it in the bed, and on the wheel well humps. I was planning on going through and welding all those holes shut, but is it necessary since I will be using bedliner? If it makes no difference, I will skip it, but if it will mean less chance of rust getting hold, I will do it.
And lastly, I was looking at Eastwoods site at their body hammer sets, and was wondering what a good set would be for someone like me who will be using them to fix a few small spots on this body, and then they will rarely be used ever again. Would this be a good buy:
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-7-piece-professional-hammer-set.html
Is it missing anything I might really need? Have more than I may need?
Thank you for this whole thread Ryoken. I would not have even attempted what I am going to be doing if it weren't for your contribution to Chief Brody, and the rest of us at CK5.
One of the previous owners put a custom carpet kit in and used a plethora (Do joo know what a plethora ees?) of sheet metal screws to secure it in the bed, and on the wheel well humps. I was planning on going through and welding all those holes shut, but is it necessary since I will be using bedliner? If it makes no difference, I will skip it, but if it will mean less chance of rust getting hold, I will do it.
And lastly, I was looking at Eastwoods site at their body hammer sets, and was wondering what a good set would be for someone like me who will be using them to fix a few small spots on this body, and then they will rarely be used ever again. Would this be a good buy:
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-7-piece-professional-hammer-set.html
Is it missing anything I might really need? Have more than I may need?
Thank you for this whole thread Ryoken. I would not have even attempted what I am going to be doing if it weren't for your contribution to Chief Brody, and the rest of us at CK5.
that's a nice well-rounded kit... shrinking hammer is always handy, and that has one... economy set would probably get ya by, it lacks the spoon, but you can usually get by without one for dings and dents here and there.....
I wouldn't rely on bedliner to fill screwholes... be worth a quickie with the mig usually, even if you don't gind em flat flat.. better than a hole IMO...
ask anytime ya have a question and hopefully I can help...
I wouldn't rely on bedliner to fill screwholes... be worth a quickie with the mig usually, even if you don't gind em flat flat.. better than a hole IMO...
ask anytime ya have a question and hopefully I can help...
oh, and just to clarify myself.. I was talking about sanding/grinding discs on rolocs, not surface conditioning pads and such...
