I ran out of 60 grit so I went to 120 and the DA. It knocked a lot of the rough dry stuff too:
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CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
Overall it is smoother but there is still a lot of rough places. I quit for the day wondering about this. Fiberglass is tough to sand. I'm not sure I am doing it right. Not sure if I am screwing up bu cutting through the outer coating
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just use a DA, save the shoulder.... that's gelcoat.... make sure you flatpad the DA.. it isn't metal you'll gouge it if you work the edge of the DA and aren't careful.. I've seen guys ruin boats like that..
you'll need to V grind the cracked areas , taper them out and lay up some mat/cloth....
you'll need to V grind the cracked areas , taper them out and lay up some mat/cloth....
I hurt so bad from doing that that I almost feel like putting a soft top on it...and it was really nice in the garage not having that thing to bump my head into...
Cloth and resin?
What grit should I be using to DA the grime off?
you can DA with 80 to 120, since you'll be priming it...
you use polyester resin to saturate fiberglass cloth and mat... it's best to get at least one layer of cloth in... layer of mat, layer of cloth, layer of mat... always good to finish with mat...
you use polyester resin to saturate fiberglass cloth and mat... it's best to get at least one layer of cloth in... layer of mat, layer of cloth, layer of mat... always good to finish with mat...
Chief you might want to add a couple 2x4's length ways to prevent the the 2x's with the wheels from rolling over and cracking the top at the bolts.
Ask me how I know.
Ask me how I know.
that's a good idea.
You are moving along my trademarked "hardtop progression" nicely.....
Next tool for your hardtop isn't a DA, it's a Sawzall.
-G
I know it's a small thing, but I found an NOS in the box horn button and got it at a cut-throat price...these little finds make my day though...
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noice...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
The little stuff all adds up!
You are moving along my trademarked "hardtop progression" nicely.....
Next tool for your hardtop isn't a DA, it's a Sawzall.
-G
I dunno....man that's hard decision to drill into the windshield frame. Progress on the hard top has been held up by absolute unbearable heat...I have nowhere to work on it but in the driveway and the heat has just been unbearable for a while now
Looking at that photo above, I already don't like the rails on the bed.
I dunno....man that's hard decision to drill into the windshield frame. Progress on the hard top has been held up by absolute unbearable heat...I have nowhere to work on it but in the driveway and the heat has just been unbearable for a while now
Looking at that photo above, I already don't like the rails on the bed.
Do the bed rails have through-holes to secure the original hard top?...I assume they must be similar to the 1st Gen.
You could fab up a set of rails based off the factory holes so that you didn't have to drill anything new. You could also make it more discrete looking...maybe even paint it body color so it blended in better.
One of the 1st Gen guys developed a windshield bow that used only factory mounting points (sun visor bolt holes and windshield corner trim holes. It allowed for a soft top without violating the frame with a bunch of holes and snaps.
You can get a soft top on there cleanly... Keep thinking on it.
-G
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You don't have to drill the bed rails. Greg is the windshield frame design on ck5? I'd like to see what he did.
I'd like to see that too
It's in Sean's thread Z71paramedic.
can you point me to that...I just want to have a look at what they have done
