What grit do you block sand the filler with on this job?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
once it's stiffening at all, just stop using the batch is useless at that point... yeah, sounds like you where making things too hot.... you'll generally have 5 to 15 minutes before it gets to that point..
you do wanna hustle... mix it well and go... you really wont be using much to fill the pinholes, mix, get some on the edge of the spreader, press moderately hard, drag it across, then drag a different direction.. cross drag and multidirectional are the same thing basically..
in the inside rails case, the best way to do it will be to drag it top to bottom in multiple pathes, then go back and hard drag it down the length, it ensures the pits are filling.. then go back and put a skim coat an 1/8 thick or so in the same direction...
you'll want to finish with going lengthwise, cuz it'll be easier to get a consistent surface...
you can continue working it as long as it's not kicking... as a matter of fact, it's best to drag the spreader over it a couple times to smooth it.. it helps remove any voidy pinholing type stuff..
it's not really a matter of "loading" the blade.. you'll see that as you put it on, it moves the unused bit up the spreader, whenever you need more at the edge of the spreader, just wipe the spreader on your mixing board and "regrab" some at the end...
you do wanna hustle... mix it well and go... you really wont be using much to fill the pinholes, mix, get some on the edge of the spreader, press moderately hard, drag it across, then drag a different direction.. cross drag and multidirectional are the same thing basically..
in the inside rails case, the best way to do it will be to drag it top to bottom in multiple pathes, then go back and hard drag it down the length, it ensures the pits are filling.. then go back and put a skim coat an 1/8 thick or so in the same direction...
you'll want to finish with going lengthwise, cuz it'll be easier to get a consistent surface...
you can continue working it as long as it's not kicking... as a matter of fact, it's best to drag the spreader over it a couple times to smooth it.. it helps remove any voidy pinholing type stuff..
it's not really a matter of "loading" the blade.. you'll see that as you put it on, it moves the unused bit up the spreader, whenever you need more at the edge of the spreader, just wipe the spreader on your mixing board and "regrab" some at the end...
yes.... not super mega hard, but hard enough where it's really just staying in the pits....
generally if you have any reasonable amount to remove, you'll rough cut it close with 36.. then just enough 80 grit to remove the 36 scratches and get it to final height with 80....
if it's on real thin, you can be cautious and just start with 80.. it'll take a bit longer thats all...
Thanks! I can't wait to get started on it...I couldn't today because by the time I got everything it was windy (30mph) and pretty cool with sprinkles....
Plus, I got a water seperator for my compressor and a dessicant filter and I need to install that as well...got 200 Lbs of real sandblasting sand...and some 36 grit, 60 grit, 100 grit and 150 grit sandpaper.
Plus, I got a water seperator for my compressor and a dessicant filter and I need to install that as well...got 200 Lbs of real sandblasting sand...and some 36 grit, 60 grit, 100 grit and 150 grit sandpaper.
oh, couple other things... don't freak if it takes a couple hrs to dry... as long as you thoroughly mix and you have a reasonable amoun t of hardener, it'll kick...... just may take a bit for it to be hard and sandable.. go drink a beer, or 9...
also another bodyman trick is you can cut those spreaders down into narrower widths, if needed... they survive best if immediately cleaned with thinner, while it's still soft.. but if it kicks, you can let it dry, bend em to crack it off laterr, then a little scraping wityh a penknife...
also another bodyman trick is you can cut those spreaders down into narrower widths, if needed... they survive best if immediately cleaned with thinner, while it's still soft.. but if it kicks, you can let it dry, bend em to crack it off laterr, then a little scraping wityh a penknife...
Is there an old bodyman rule of thumb for filler/hardener ratio? Like...for every tablespoon of filler it take a spot of hardener the size of your pinkie fingernail?
oh, and to give you a rough correlation of hardener to filler ratio.... dont hold me to this, as i said, there are lots of variables.....
but for a pile about the size of a baseball, you'll want a ribbon of hardener about about 2"s long....
but for a pile about the size of a baseball, you'll want a ribbon of hardener about about 2"s long....
I am having to do this outside in the front yard...do I need worry about trying to do it in the shade or in the open sunlight...temperature of the metal as I am putting on the filler?
keep in mind thats a fairly large batch..... that'd do the inside rail and a skim coat on the whole top probably... it was just the best anology i could think of...
eh, shouldn't really matter this time of yr.... obviously take it into account as to the temp, but it's not like it's 95 out... this time of yr it should take a bit to kick, shade or sun...
thanks again for your help...I may need more tomorrow...probably will look like this...but way more dusty...
any time.. i should be off and on thruout the day.. need to do some hardcore rig work tomorrow myself....
try not to get frustrated.... run into a prob or are unsure, post up and i'll try to get to it asap...
also, if you get your filler work done, when you go to prime, just hit the surrounding bare metal, then regular prime the whole thing... you can get the zinc on the duraglass, but it's not needed on it...
try not to get frustrated.... run into a prob or are unsure, post up and i'll try to get to it asap...
also, if you get your filler work done, when you go to prime, just hit the surrounding bare metal, then regular prime the whole thing... you can get the zinc on the duraglass, but it's not needed on it...
Oh Lord....
How thick is the Duraglas supposed to be in the can? Creamy like peanut butter or thicker like bearing grease...or even thicker like carnauba wax?
How thick is the Duraglas supposed to be in the can? Creamy like peanut butter or thicker like bearing grease...or even thicker like carnauba wax?
I spent 12 hours today cleaning off the rail...and the level of difficulty just went up exponentially. 
I took it down with 36 grit resin wheel, then 60 grit dual action, then a 4.5 inch "poly" disk for removing rust...then I hit it with a giant cup brush...then I sandblasted and repeated the wire brush and 60 grit....
there was a lot more under there than I had anticipated...I am worried now...that I don't have the skills to fix this:
I took it down with 36 grit resin wheel, then 60 grit dual action, then a 4.5 inch "poly" disk for removing rust...then I hit it with a giant cup brush...then I sandblasted and repeated the wire brush and 60 grit....
there was a lot more under there than I had anticipated...I am worried now...that I don't have the skills to fix this:
well, I'll say, it looks like you did some dilligent work..
was that all filled with something similar to the duraglass?
and yeah, it's generally pretty stiff... and should be mixed in the can prior to removing...
can you take a closer pic tomorrow of that larger hole area? hard to tell from the pic, but it almost looks like All-metal filler in there...
was that all filled with something similar to the duraglass?
and yeah, it's generally pretty stiff... and should be mixed in the can prior to removing...
can you take a closer pic tomorrow of that larger hole area? hard to tell from the pic, but it almost looks like All-metal filler in there...
Yes, the filler was dark like the Duraglas.
There are two places, one at the front and one at the rear that are filled with that stuff...I was afraid to dig it all out and it looked like I got all the rust out in and around it.
I don't know what it's made of but the wire cup brush will cut it...
yeah, that's a bit rough.. and yeah, that's all-metal in there.. pretty good product back in the day, don't see it used much anymore...
my suggestion? if you don't wanna get involved with panel replacement, make sure waht you've got is absolutley as clean as possible, trying to make sure there is none of the little black down in the pits, and refill it...
if wouldn't be a bad idea to run a layer of long hair over that all-metal hole, then rough it up with a grinder and skim coat it with the duraglass... remember when I was talking about structural strength...
the prob is, if the outside of the panel is that damaged, it's got it going on between the inner and outer too, so it will only last so long before it rears it's head at some point...
IF you make sure it's as sandblasted as it can get, and you go for the refill, it can last surprising long.... you could probably get 10 yrs out of it before it possibly rears it's head again......
my suggestion? if you don't wanna get involved with panel replacement, make sure waht you've got is absolutley as clean as possible, trying to make sure there is none of the little black down in the pits, and refill it...
if wouldn't be a bad idea to run a layer of long hair over that all-metal hole, then rough it up with a grinder and skim coat it with the duraglass... remember when I was talking about structural strength...
the prob is, if the outside of the panel is that damaged, it's got it going on between the inner and outer too, so it will only last so long before it rears it's head at some point...
IF you make sure it's as sandblasted as it can get, and you go for the refill, it can last surprising long.... you could probably get 10 yrs out of it before it possibly rears it's head again......
Actually, I never knew that either was even there...there were no indications...no bubbles...nothing...it was when I cut the rust off the inside edge that I could see it went through the folded edge...I stripped the top off just because I thought there was rust under the filler....but the guy did a good job on the top...
By the way...how do replace that panel if you wanted to?
