What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Chief Brody said:
How should I handle those "pits" that are on the curve...I think they filled, they look bad but I think they are smooth to the touch.
Do I just prime those and then fill them with glaze if there are any that show?
Also, did I ask you when or if I use a high build primer?
.
Click to expand...

if they feel good, you can go right to prime.. just be aware that when priming, those spots may need to be "loaded up" a bit with primer to cover/fill well... you'll see when you prime, pinholey/pit kinda stuff sometimes don't fill in well and need a bit of a douching...
 
That is assuming that I can change colors over the existing paint...I may not be able or want to do that...just trying to figure out how I should be treating the panel as a whole as I am doing this...thought about stripping it to the metal except for the whit stripe, which will remain the same color...
 
Chief Brody said:
And those HF "rolok" disks work great...I can absolutely take my bed down to bare metal in no time with one of those if I want to...I did it to the laft rear bed where there is something that I saw that I won't bring up on this thread...I'll put it in another...although it might be related to this...it's one of those things I don't want to be anal about about and may just leave it as it is depending on how difficult it is to fix.
Click to expand...

try using genuine 3M green discs.. the quality is incredible compared to the knock-off brands... been using them for probably 25 yrs.. since they came out, as dad was a 3M engineer....
 
Last edited:
ryoken said:
try using genuine 3M green discs.. the quality is incredible to the knock-off brands... been using them for probably 25 yrs.. since they came out, as dad was a 3M engineer....
Click to expand...

I looked at some today...they have an arbor like a drill fits...I don't know how to get that to fit on my angle grinder...
 
Chief Brody said:
That is assuming that I can change colors over the existing paint...I may not be able or want to do that...just trying to figure out how I should be treating the panel as a whole as I am doing this...thought about stripping it to the metal except for the whit stripe, which will remain the same color...
Click to expand...

keep in mind mil thickness and how many layers of stuff your seeing at the feather edge... generally you dont want it any thicker one paint job and the one your doing.. if it's got 2 on it, you generally want to sand thru at least one...
 
there are 2 kinds of rolocs.. ones with a 1/4" shaft that fit in die grinders.. and ones with threads on the back to mount on surface prep tools...

here, i grabbed some of my stuff.. die grinder setup to left, and surface prep style to right...



80566720.jpg
 
Last edited:
so they probably make one that threads onto my angle grinder?
 
doubtful... thats the threadsize there.. it's like 1/4"/20.... whats the arbor on your grinder, 5/8?
 
eh, you'll probably have to let it catch up here and there.. but if ya regulate it down to a reasonable rpm, it'd probably do decent... die grinders aren't super air hogs if ya keep the rpm's down...




:bow: :bow: ALL HAIL THE MIGHTY QUINCY :bow::bow: :haha:
 
ryoken said:
eh, you'll probably have to let it catch up here and there.. but if ya regulate it down to a reasonable rpm, it'd probably do decent... die grinders aren't super air hogs if ya keep the rpm's down...
Click to expand...

I wonder if there are any tricks you can do with a small compresoor like mine to get more out of it...like adding more tanks inline...or somekind of setup where there is another tank that is full and usable while the other is refilling? :dunno:
 
adding tanks inline will help, but it only does so much... I have a 60 tank on a handcart at work for just that purpose...


I have no idea as to the quality of that unit... but the reviews look decent... being a 2 stage, it will definitely put out some air... run that blaster no prob...
 
Why don't they make an electric inline block sander?
 
I'd own one if they did... in a marina, electric tools rule out of convenience.. cordless, even better... I run an electric Porter Cable DA at work all the time...


I don't know why.. longboards, aka as an inline sander, have always been considered a body shop tool, thus plenty of air... even with DA's, the only electric DA is the Porter Cable I use..

what would be awesome is a 1/2 length, mini air inline sander, I've wanted that for years..
 
ryoken said:
what would be awesome is a 1/2 length, mini air inline sander, I've wanted that for years..
Click to expand...

Closest thing I can find to a mini...i can't afford it but it comes with a long pad attachment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_lRbGRk9DkY

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=ea11fce4af6fa65abf6b12d6c0549245&Screen=BIGP&description=Sanding+pad+long%2C+LS+130+%28%23491861%29&fullimagepath=/prodimg/fs/big/FS-491861_big.gif

also has a vacuum attachment
 
holy yit thats expensive... i'd be curious to actually see it sand... what it's throw is, etc... sounds a bit dainty for bodywork...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom