Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[Chief Brody]

Come to think of it, this isn't a detour...it's kind of part of the same panel...also weighs in as to whether I should just go ahead and replace the quarter panel...

I'm not sure which piece is out of alignment

How could the QP pull away from the tail pan like that?

 

[ryoken]

it didn't.. the tailpan is down... someone dropped a refridgerator on it, or a 25' shark... all 3 tons of him.

it could be made reasonable, not perfect, with a floorjack, block of lumber, a sledge and a welder...

 

[Chief Brody]

it didn't.. the tailpan is down... someone dropped a refridgerator on it, or a 25' shark... all 3 tons of him.

it could be made reasonable, not perfect, with a floorjack, block of lumber, a sledge and a welder...

Saw one eat a rockin' chair once...guess he jumped up on my stern...

I've got a floorjack, a block of lumber and a sledge...I'm interested...but I don't see the equation yet...

 

[Chief Brody]

It doesn't have to be perfect....remember I am putting the carpet down and there is a trim piece that goes there to hold the carpet down, but I have never seen one so I don't know what it looks like....but I should hide any imperfection...

 

[ryoken]

alright.. tomorrow.. or 3:30 this morn, soon, right now I'm off to kill some Nazi's...

but it may be a moot point.. if you do decide to do the qrter, you'd be foolish not to do the tailpan... if your gonna repair the qrter, we'll repair the tailpan...

 

[Chief Brody]

Jack up to the tail pan...block of lumber on top of bed floor...sledgehammer the block downward?

 

[ryoken]

yeah, block of wood jacked up at the outer tailpan, good weight off the grd... block of wood to the right of the bend on top.. looks to be over by the mount, about the 5, 6 rib.. bash the block downward, readjust jack pressure as you go.... once the tailpan is somewhat straight, you'll need to straighten the floor sheetmetal..

but first, drill some holes over the tailpan thru the sheetmetal for later plug welds... and bend back the back lip correctly with some channel locks or something...

then move the jack to that area for support under the tailpan, then work the sheetmetal down with the block and body hammering the crease...

clamp floor to tailpan.. plug weld....


alrighty, death to NAZI's!!!!!

 

[Chief Brody]

clamp floor to tailpan.. plug weld....


alrighty, death to NAZI's!!!!!

Playstation isn't back up yet...

 

[ryoken]

Return to Castle Wolfenstein for the PC....

 

[ryoken]

Lots of great info though

just caught this.... thanks.... I know there's definitely been a few bodywork tips in this thread that have never been in the forum before... if anyone other than the shark hunter has a question/comment about anything discussed, feel free I suppose...

oh, and now that all the Nazi's are dead and I'm here Chief, if you go to straighten that tailpan, be aware of a couple things... you need to inspect the ends of the tailpan for mounting tab damage to the qrter....

something will either be bent or ripped out.. there are 2 mounting flanges, with 2 bolts in each.. one is on each side of the tailpan, each downward channel... you more than likely will need to undo those 4 bolts prior to straightening the tailpan... the flanges may need to be straightened with some channel-locks, hammer, etc... also, once the tailpan is brought back up, the first thing you do before, straightening, welding the floor is get those 4 bolts back in.. this may/will require some persuasion.. drifts, line-up tools, punches, screwdrivers, etc are your friend... once bolted up, finish off with the floor...

which brings up another thing, be aware, which once you look underneath, you'll see, the tailpan is 3 sided, open at the bottom... keep this in mind when jacking it and bending it, thus the lumber... also, generally these 2, down walls i'll call them, will be waffled a bit over by the mount, where it's bent... the metal has to go somewhere...

as you drive downward with the block of wood to the right, you may/will need to massage the front and back side of the tailpan to help remove the waffle.. sometimes it helps to wedge a block of wood the right width into the tailpan to act as a body dolly as you work that rear-facing surface...

you may need to go back and forth between the top and sides till good...this is obviously backyard poorman's method, on an EZ-Liner, you'd Mo-clamp it at the bend, down to the table and use the hydraulic ram for your upward pressure outboard...


how does the tailgate open/close/align?

 

[Chief Brody]

how does the tailgate open/close/align?

The tailgate works good although one side latches a smidge sooner than the other...I just attributed that to alignment / weatherstrip issues...but it is probably this.

On the lumber, am I looking to get into the channel with a 2x4 or am I looking to cover the whole channel with a 4x4?

I need to buy some 2x4 and if necessary some 4x4 pieces.
It's trying to rain again today so I will have to poke the frnt end out of the garage to give me room....will I be swinging the sledge high over head like a lumberjack?

 

[Chief Brody]

Oh...how much easier would it be if I removed the tailgate (man it's heavy)...if I do, I need to pick up some saw horses...

 

[ryoken]

when jacking the outer section up, if you can get a 2 x 4 up into the channel, your better off pressing up there.. but if not a piece wider than the tailpan on the bottom 2 lower edges will work too....

on using one as a body dolley to work the front/back of the tailpan.. whatever fits... maybe a hunk of 2 x 4 and some tapered shims tapped in tight...


what? doesn't every home/dungeon have a lumber, steel and fiberglass bin?

 

[ryoken]

Oh...how much easier would it be if I removed the tailgate (man it's heavy)...if I do, I need to pick up some saw horses...

don't herniate yourself... yes, pull the tailgate....

just make sure to take an awl and scribe bolt/hinge locations.. it's good habit...

 

[Chief Brody]

what? doesn't every home/dungeon have a lumber, steel and fiberglass bin?

I did until the great Black Widow / Reback infestation of 2010...I had black widows and Australian Redbacks all over my garage...I cleaned the whole thing out to the bare walls throwing all my "useless" scrap away....

 

[Chief Brody]

don't herniate yourself... yes, pull the tailgate....

just make sure to take an awl and scribe bolt/hinge locations.. it's good habit...

OK...this I have never done...which hinge bolts do I remove? Just the ones on the gate...got 4 bolts on each hinge?

How do you mark them...better yet where do I mark them?

 

[ryoken]

wish I had pics of the chicken coop I built my blue Chevelle in... I was putting the BB in one night, the hoist wheel fell thru the thin slab, and a rat come out...


built my first lifted truck in a dirt floor barn with a come-along around a beam...

1984 iirc...

 

[ryoken]

OK...this I have never done...which hinge bolts do I remove? Just the ones on the gate...got 4 bolts on each hinge?

How do you mark them...better yet where do I mark them?

i find it easiest to reinstall if ya leave the hinge with the gate.... if you look under the tailpan, you'll see 4 bolts holding the hinge to the tailpan...... take a sharpie, sharp awl, whatever and scribe where the washer are when tight... when ya take it apart, you'll notice it was slotted....

 

[Chief Brody]

When I remove it, I'm not putting it back on until I recondition it...I am going to need to pickup a handtruck as well I think...Is there a better way to move heavy body panels when you are doing this by yourself?

I don't want to cause more damage to have to fix later...

 

[ryoken]

ummm, sure, a handcart could be helpful...

close and latch the gate.. setup a couple appropriate height sawhorses, milkcrates, etc with some lumber on em, or better yet, I use moving blankets...

undo 3 on one hinge.. 3 on the other.. then do your last 2... open the tailgate on top of blankets and the hinges will free themselves up as you open..


slide away from tailpan, contact the newspaper, photos, etc...