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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
The metal sash thing that the tailgate glass is stuck into is a little rusty...can you mask off the glass and sandblast that part or is it neessary to remove it from the glass? I will ask the same thing about the door glass vents...

Will masking tape block a sand blast? If you use something real sticky like duct tape wouldn't it be messy? :dunno:
 
take a pic of the rust....

yes, duct tape in a few layers will stop blasting.. it can only take so much tho.. yes, it leaves glue... lacquer thinner removes it relatively easy...
 
Here's the pics....I am trying to stay on topic, and in a way I guess this is....rust...

I need to save as many pieces as I can...I can't believe how much LMC wants for some of the small pieces....I think the sash is $60

Has anyone ever replace the nylon roller on the regulator before? It is bradded in...but LMC sells it...just not sure how you fasten it on.

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Also, I am going to need to use some of that rust convertor on the inside of the tailgate....I may end up using one of these unless there is a better way?

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I wouldn't disassemble the window other than removing all moving parts for individual cleaning.. i'd do all new rollers while i was in there... the pinch frame doesn't look horrible, just exterior cosmetic stuff..

i've seen em where there all puffy and bloated with rust.. you could mask off the glass and hit em a bit if you wanted.. carboard over the glass with like 3 layers of duct tape at the edge..

just make sure to start with the blast "off" the frame, and draw the pattern onto the frame.. make sure you angle "away" from the tape edge, so the air isn't forcing sand/air under the tape..

i've used toilet brushes like that MANY a time cleaning a boat bilge, but NEVER for bodywork!!!


umm, try this instead... take a throwaway paint brush and masking tape it to the end of a paint stick...
 
The window channels...theres one on each side...what's the best way to get the old felt out? And where can you get felt to put back in? LMC wants to sell you the whole channel for $40 each...I bet you can get pieces of felt that you can cut to length and glue in yourself?
 
be warned, most homebrew weatherstripping fails in short order.. no idea on replacement felts other than LMC.. i wouldn't take anything out till you see what the replacement looks like.. lmc has a VERY poor track record when it comes window felts and the like..
 
Well...today is a wash...either it's too hot..99 degrees or it's raining every weekend...
the only thing I got done today is to get the tailgate and header panel to the sandblaster man...

I am really at a crossroads...I have reached a point where it is essential that I have a large compressor...I'm struggling whether or not to use the VISA...

The only two-stage that makes sense is the Quincy for $1299.00 (shipped to my door)

people around here are asking that much for old used ones...
 
I will say this... single stages in the 5 to 700 range will definitely be fine for many.. i ran an oiless 60 gal for 12 yrs, and it did fine for most things, but did lack when it came to blasting...

in my case, I'm glad I went with my Quincy.. I'm sure the comparable IR is decent too... it puts out stupid amounts of air... I've yet to run out of air at any point... it'll run that 20 lb blaster ALL day at full pressure... you would need 2 guys hitting it with decent tools to put a dent in it... for a personal home use thing, even for someone like me who runs massive airhog tools for hrs, it is a bit over the top... definitely a compressor for life..

tho it's a ton quieter than the evil screaming banshee oilless was, it's not quite as quiet as I was hoping. but not bad, considering the air it puts out.. once I put the walls up around it, I'll barely hear it..
 
ryoken said:
I will say this... single stages in the 5 to 700 range will definitely be fine for many.. i ran an oiless 60 gal for 12 yrs, and it did fine for most things, but did lack when it came to blasting...
Click to expand...

How bad did it lack? Will it get me through my project?

HF has a single stage 60 gal on sale for $399 right now...

http://www.harborfreight.com/35-hp-60-gallon-130-psi-compressor-3848.html

They have a two-stage for $799 but if I was going that high I would just get the Quincy

Here is a brand new product from Quincy:
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/tools/quincy-single-stage-60-gallon-air-compressors.html
 
well, assuming the hf brand is decent and it doesn't explode or something, it'd do ya fine probably.. ya definitely may have to stop and let it catch up here and there sandblasting... my Quincy puts out about 16 cfm at 175 PSI. :eek1: :bow:

whereas that single does 13 at 90 PSI :whistle:

I would think for anyone but me, :haha: a $400 single is the smarter option... :D
 
will I still have water trouble in the lines with a bigger compressor?
 
it certainly helps, it can help a ton depending on the upgrade...... tank size matters alot for water... but no, your not fool proof, especially i'm thinking in Al..... you still run a seperator...
 
That's similar to the one I have, mine's a Grainger. It has not let me down yet. Runs all the air tools including a 3/4 drive. Blasting you will need to take a break occasionally, but letting the air tank cool down helps with the water. Keep the bottom drain just cracked open and most of the water will go out there.
 
I just don't want to spend and waste $500 for a compressor that doesn't cut it when I can go ahead and spend $850 for one that has continuous duty cycle and an amazing CFM....:dunno:
 
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