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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Chief, Ryoken is the expert, but I can throw in a suggestion.
First, if the self etching was paint can, then find yourself a trigger attachment that snaps on and takes the load off your finger.
They usually run about 2 bucks.

If you go with a paintgun, make sure you have plenty of the correct solvent handy to clean it with beforehand.
You DO NOT want to have paint drying in it while you are heading to the store.
Plus, before you fill it with $100 per gallon paint, get some cheap stuff and learn how to use the gun.
They are simple if you use the right motion and set them up right, but you can go through an awful lot of paint and make an enormous mess while you are learning.
 
Looks like I am on my own in learning to paint...there are NO automotive painting classes anywhere near me...no auto body classes either...they only do mechanical now...
 
eh, we'll get ya thru it... after 2000 paint jobs, I think I can walk ya thru it...

remember you'll need a 1.8 tip gun for that primer... if ya start shopping guns, economy is ok, but ya gotta watch the super cheap HF stuff.. they like to use plastic parts that melt with lacquer thinner... but reasonable guns can be had for 50 to 100...
 
if ya feel like spending that much, it's the starter kit I usually recommend... Devilbiss makes nice guns.. but anything from Binks, Sata, Sharpe is quality too... that'll do everything from primer to base to clear..
 
There are good ones, and better ones and the best.
I would not attempt to say which is which, but an old painter I trusted once gave me this advice:
If it says Binks, it works.
I'm quite sure there is better, but I have never seen a bad Binks.
 
well, for a 2 gun economy package, it's hard to beat the starting line setup... Binks, Sata, Devilbiss, Sharpe, Iwata, all have higher end guns, but your usually talking $200+... especially Sata's, they can get pricey..

Sharpe makes a nice economy gun in the Finex, but even that runs about $100 for one gun... thats usually why i recommend the starting line setup, 2 guns, and they end up being $60 or so a piece and your covered for the majority of spraying...

you could go for the HF kit.... http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html

but you better be VERY careful, and thorough in your cleaning... and they are not rebuildable.. I've seen them with plastic adjustment knobs and such, spray ok, go to clean em and parts start melting...

i also see tcp has a 3 gun kit, but again, i can't vouch for quality and it may be the same deal as the HF... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-TC...Z200626193031QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

do yourself a favor and just buy a 5 gal pail of the cheapest lacquer thinner your autobody place carries.. usually it's about 35, $40... it should last you thru the project and is much cheaper than gallons, which you end up going thru pretty quick... VERY handy to have thinner around for things other than cleaning guns, cleaning spreaders, weatherstripping, etc..

actually, it would have helped you yesterday in the humidity. many times you can wipe over dried fillers with a rag of thinner, than it sands ok for ya...
 
What about the Eastwood brand spray gun? Thats what I have and its reliable and easily breaks down to clean with no melting parts. Also you can buy different sized tips and other accessories for it. It was under $100 last I remembered. My only problem with the gun is that I had a hard time getting it to spray flat, but since my first few experiments I have learned that I just needed to toss some reducer into the paint and it sprays fine.
 
link to that gun? I know they sell Devilbiss, Binks and Iwata's...
 
now I know why you where having issues early on priming, iirc... that's a touch up gun... looks just like my astro pneumatic detail gun, which was about the same money... I'm sure it's a decent little gun for what it is, but I wouldn't want to be painting a whole car, or even a hood with it.. it can be done, but it's a pretty small pattern... very nice that they have a rebuild kit for it....

the whole "detail gun" thing is a relatively new thing, effectively they are a touch-up gun in a mini fullsize style body...

lets put it this way.... with a 1.0 or 1.2, you could not even get 2k urethane primer thru the tip, at all.... it's too thick and not reducable... it does fine with most paints, clears and such, but does not like anything thick...

now that being said, for anyone doing paintwork, a touchup gun is invaluable to have around in addition to a full size.... I have 3 myself, 2 gravity's and one siphon...I use mine all the time for parts, spot-in's, etc.... matter of fact, my airpan was shot this weekend with my Sharpe touch-up....

7040.jpg


here's my astro


Astro_Pneumatic_EUROHV103_EuroPro_Forged_HVLP_Spray_Gun.jpg
 
well, that's not exactly a fair comparison... I could post 7, $800 Sata's and Iwata's... all the manufacturer's have different lines of guns.. that's probably comparable to the 250, $300 Binks and Devilbiss's that are out....

there are lots of technical things about guns that make one line different than the other... worth the price jump? eh, depends... if I was still squirting 20 cars a week, I'd more than likely be using a $500 + Sata or comparable...

I'd be curious who's making em for Eastwood.. usually Sharpe is big on that.. they've often made Snap On and Mac's guns for them.... but the Eastwood stuff has more of a "Devilbiss" look to em...

but I don't stay NEARLY as current these days on the gun tech that's out as I used to... I own freakin 9 already.... :doah: :pimp: :haha:
 
eh, on second glance, I bet it is Sharpe making em for em.. the fluid nozzle looks the same as the more recent Sharpes...
 
This thread is like those sour candies ,first its sour ,then its SWEET! :DWow great thread and great read.all 54 pages. The bedrails turned out great. Newb question......is it better to be doing all this work outside or in the garage? What I mean is.....Does the heat mess with all the products at all? whats the lesser of 2 evils?
 
it really depends on what your doing.... any sanding is nice to do outside, keeps the mess outta the garage, and sometimes the breeze keeps the dust moving...


fillers... generally your always best inside... all the fillers are MEKP kicked and polyester based, so, as Chief figured out, they can kick off REAL quick the hotter it is... direct sun has a lot to do with that... once applied, put it outside to dry...

priming can be a big nuisance if it's windy... trust me, I paint 50' boats outside...

but if it's pretty calm, it's not bad to spray outside... you can ALWAYS see better outside, plus your not overspraying your garage.... just wanna make sure the steel isn't mega-hot....
 
Sorry I am holding the thread up...it's just too hot down here to do anything big....I HAVE to get a dryer...I can't run the compressor without it...I had water shooting out the sides of my inline....and that's with 3 water seperators in the line.

That's another $200...haven't seen a decent dryer for less than that.

Going outside here is like walking outside into a dog's mouth....
 
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