Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[ryoken]

no, no... that's a ghey wax remover... you need a real rotary buffer.... not a buzzy orbital action... i laugh at the boat owners using them things at the marina..

you want something like this..

super duty is just 3M's orange lacquer compound..

 

[Chief Brody]

I need to mount a buffer wheel on my angle grinder....

 

[Chief Brody]

What kind of polishing is the 6" Porter Cable DA good for?

 

[ryoken]

nothing much more than some finesse-ing and wax of small parts.. like a glovebox door....


a superbuff adapter and 2+2 pads is the only way to go for buffing...

5/8 arbor.. keep in mind, you want variable speed... not a high speed only grinder...

 

[Chief Brody]

I burned the crap out of my paint with a wool bonnet....the foam pad worked good...how are the 2+2 ?

 

[ryoken]

the best you can buy... high rpm's creates heat..... ya ain't gonna compound with a foam pad.. all i ever use those for is wax, and occasionally finesse...

guess my chapter on colorsanding/buffing do's and don'ts will be coming up at some point...

 

[Chief Brody]

guess my chapter on colorsanding/buffing do's and don'ts will be coming up at some point...

As will the purchase of yet another power tool

 

[ryoken]

sometimes your gonna need a better reel when your going sharkin...

 

[Chief Brody]

sometimes your gonna need a better reel when your going sharkin...

"May be a big yahoo in the lab, Mr. Hooper, but out here it gets Super Cogger"...if you don't wanna backstroke home get down here"....

Did you know Lynn Murphy actually tinkered with that reel to get that "ticking" sound louder....

 

[ryoken]

missed that one in "the making of"...

 

[Fordum]

Glass is tricky, especally tempered safety glass, but like he said it can be buffed out. The thing I like to do, is the new plastic headlights. When they turn yellow and get where the light will hardly shine out, you can buff them back clear if you don't let it get hot.
I use a wool buffer on an electric drill with Johnson's J-Wax Kit and lots of water.

Of course, I don't do a lot of them, otherwise I would get better stuff.

NOW for the important question:
What the heck do you do with Zinc Chromate in the toilet!!???

First the toilets went from 5 to 3 gallon flushes, then they took the Zinc Chromate away...Lib-tards...

I have done some freaky things in there, but it never involved that stuff.......

 

[Chief Brody]

NOW for the important question:
What the heck do you do with Zinc Chromate in the toilet!!???

quote]

Well...there is some rust in there...speaking of bathrooms...it just occured to me that nobody goes in Jaws...two days on the boat...must be more than chum in the water

 

[Chief Brody]

I took the guts out of the drivers side door today and removed it...so the whole left side is pretty much wide open. I will be able to easily get to the door jambs and stuff...
The door is pretty light without all that stuff in it...maybe it's not in as bad shape at the bottom as I first thought...I'll post some pics later when I can get to it.
Weatherman says the heatwave may finally break here by the end of this week...maybe only 91 degrees and only 60% humidity...it will help.
Should have the zinc primer by then and I'll be ready to cut through some paint.

 

[British Slave]

I'm not trying to steal the thread, just keeping rust solutions together. What is the best approach to repairing the rust in the pic? You can see the rust is in a line, there is a panel inside just at the bottom of the holes. No access from the interior of the truck. This is the only rust on the truck.

 

[ryoken]

is that the corner of the roof?

generally a repair like that you want to cut a patch/access window.. the surrounding area will be thin anyway..

on that, like 3" x 4"... i'll do a paint thing tonight...

then as best a prep internally as you can, media blasting/converter, etc... be prepared to find rust inside.. i've said it before, rust up high in these rigs is bad juju.... then weld in a patch... either a stepped lap or butt patch, whichever your more comfortable with..

 

[British Slave]

Thanks, that's were I was leaning, just wanted the pro's opinion.

 

[Chief Brody]

I got a six pack today:

 

[ryoken]

hmmm, never seen that brand before..

 

[ryoken]

I'm not trying to steal the thread, just keeping rust solutions together. What is the best approach to repairing the rust in the pic? You can see the rust is in a line, there is a panel inside just at the bottom of the holes. No access from the interior of the truck. This is the only rust on the truck.

i would generally cut out something like this.. depending on thin areas..

you can hand form a patch easy enough with a ballpeen hammer and sandbag... if you butt patch it, they make clamps, but they aren't necessary on a patch like that.. just tackweld a handle on it so you can keep it in place till tacked in a couple spots...

thats what i cut up old hoods for.. air hammer out the skin real quick, fold up and throw away the frame.. and i end up with huge patching material....

 

[British Slave]

You cut a little more than I was thinking, but I guess that will be determined after the first cut. I bought material today, and ordered some of the Eastwood internal frame treatment. I figured I would make the cut, and then treat the inside as good as I can. I'm going to wait to make any cuts till I have everything on hand.