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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
Actually, you could just buy a video camera and set it up and do what you do and then setup a website and charge a subscription for access to said videos.

You can use me for your "How not to do this" section....I hate to bring this back up but somewhere on this forum I posted how Formby's Minwax wasn't working on my original wood panels....till it was pointed out to me that they were indeed plastic :haha:
 
I am almost afraid to post this.
My father died in 2002, and he is under a good sized slab of concrete. But if he somehow hears I told this, I might just get a visit.......

When he moved into his new office, he got a lady who worked at a friend's furniture store to pick out the furniture and decorate it.
She put in some nice potted plants. Large treelike plants with big leaves.

After he had been there a few months, he asked me to find some large plates or something to put under the pots.
It seems that when he watered the plants, the water would soak through and stain the rug.

I picked up a ceramic dish to put under one pot, to start with to make sure it was big enough.
As I picked up the pot and tree to put the dish under it, it seemed suspiciously light. I examined it closely.

Yep, it was artificial. Along with all the others......
 
Ryoken,

What kind of paint do I need to paint my hood hinges and air filter holder...and most general black under-the-hood objects?

Is it ok to sandblast hood hinges?

Oh yeah...and on new inner fender wells what do you do to the "exposed" wheel well side? Paint?




It's Shark Week!

White Bottom.jpg
 
simple first, sure, you can blast your hinges.. just make sure to blow/work out any sand from the pivot area...

now the tougher one....

first, ANY part, whether a hood, air cleaner, wheelwell, door, etc will benefit from a proper coating procedure.. in other words, no matter what paint you put on a zinc/fill prime process prior will make it that much more durable..

for example, full load of blasted parts..


parts002.jpg




zinced


zinc002.jpg




then 2k urethane primer.. can't seem to find that pic...


as to paint...


here's my take on blacks... gloss is a challenge.. it can look very, very good... or it can look very cheesy if the time isn't taken to make it look right... it's also very durable and cleans up well...

satin is usually my choice... i feel it looks the best.. hides minor flaws much better than gloss... cleans up ok and is relatively durable...

flat... not a real fan of... looks cool when ya first do it, but cleans up very poorly...


what kind of paint... all the same rules apply.. obviously a catalyzed, thru the gun urethane will be the toughest.... gloss, thats no big deal... satin is vastly more difficult and unpredictable due to flattening agents... I run flattened black Imron on my stuff.. I do not recommend it for most... and obviously it can get pricey with hardeners, reducer, etc...

good results can be had with rattlecans, albeit, limited in durability due to the air-dried resin.. I achieve excellent results at work with standard satin black rustoleum rattlecans... very consistent and leave a good satin...

this stuff...

020066777982lg.jpg



it is only an enamel, so somewhat soft, but it's relatively tough... there are quite a few satin rattlecans on the market tho.. you could try a couple different ones and see which finish you like..


wheelwells should be treated the same as any other part... prime and paint inner and outer..... you can add an undercoating to the roadside after the fact for some added protection... 3M has always made quality undercoatings...
 
Did you blast and paint your leaf springs in that picture? or are those new?

Do you spray clearcoat over the black enamel?
 
the springs are basically new, so no paint by me..

i only use that rattlecan stuff for work.. and no, i dont clear over it, but you could... wouldn't be quite as satin.. i would only bother with a catalyzed clear.. more rattlecan clear ain't gonna help it's durability...
 
Could I spray that Black paint with a 1.5 nozzle? This might be a good oportunity to paint something with a HVLP gun just to see what it's like...
 
Painted truck parts on the kitchen floor.....

You ARE a bachelor! :D


:usaflag:
 
Can you paint the hood hinge spring? Seemes like the paint would flake off when stretched? :dunno:
 
Chevy305 said:
why are you painting an axel shaft?
Click to expand...

I'll bet it's a trail spare and will be mounted in a visible spot somewhere on the rollcage.

Knowing Paul, it will probably be finished in black Imron and color sanded to perfection! :whistle:


:usaflag:
 
Chevy305 said:
why are you painting an axel shaft?
Click to expand...


I answered this back 2 yrs ago when i did that.. for the same reason i painted the inside areas of my rotors, they hold up better.. those shafts where hammered with rust in the whole exposed area when i pulled em... some/most people are fine with just slamming some rotors on and letting em turn to balls of rust.. this rig, I'd like sh*t to hold up better..


chief... nothing wrong with painting springs, just make sure all apps are on the thin side...
 
Another bad note today: I found out that true zinc chromate is not available in Alabama....thanks, California. What I have been using is the SEM Self Etching...thought it was zinc :confused:


NEVERMIND! There is much joy...I found some through certain channels....

"I can do anything....I'm Chief of Police" ~ Martin Brody
 
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I pay about $6 for em thru work... but most of the public is paying $10 to 15..

it's not as good as a 2-part wash, but it does a good job...


what where you asking me, oh, a what tip, a 1.5? i've seen 1.3, and an occasional 1.6 and of course 1.8's.. what where you talking about shooting thru it in black? a 2-part, like an imron, etc?
 
ryoken said:
what where you asking me, oh, a what tip, a 1.5? i've seen 1.3, and an occasional 1.6 and of course 1.8's.. what where you talking about shooting thru it in black? a 2-part, like an imron, etc?
Click to expand...

Not sure...HF had a spraygun on sale and I could get it so cheap it would almost be throwaway...so I wondered about getting some kind of black paint and doing my hinges and air filter holder with the spraygun just to get an introduction to the real thing....if I mess up, no big deal....the HF only comes in 1.4 and 1.5, not 1.8.
 
well, either would work... you can get urethane primer thru a 1.5 without hammering the viscosity too bad.. it'd douche out some urethane too..

keep in mind... fill prime... on a money end.. don't get ahead of yourself and be all excited to get stuff in paint.. gal primer kits run $125+

a gal of catalyzed urethane paint is gonna run ya $150 to $250 with hardner and reducer where applicable... and keep in mind, if you want a satin, it's a whole OTHER ballgame... additional product for non-preflattened mixes.. and sometimes finish consistency issues... plus you now have to store done, painted parts... are you talking gloss or satin?
 
LOT friggin cheaper... there are premix urethanes out in satin.. i tried out the hotrodflatz stuff at like $150 for a whole kit, but i prefer the satin i get with my Imron... and trust me, even I have to pull tricks out of my arse to match that every time... it's really one where you need to commit to something and go.. I buy black imron by the gallon and mix my secret flattening % in, and shake the whole gallon... heck, the right way to do it would be to mix up a couple gallons at a clip..

if you've really got the bug to get some stuff in black.. thats what i'd suggest, start getting your chops in squirting some fill primer.. get the hood done, a fender, the air cleaner, whatever.. then if your feeling all Quint about it, give the inside of the hood, the air cleaner, etc a scuff and shoot some rattlecan on it.....
 
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