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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
fenders hold up better to blasting than most panels.. lot of contours and body lines to help out..

but yes, an idiot with some 00 course hammering it could warp it... a decent blaster with a slightly less aggressive media can do it... walnut shells, plastic media and soda blasting are all low heat alternative too...

there are thing I like about acid dipping and it rules for inaccessible areas...... but I generally will combine it with some form of media blasting... nothing cleans steel for coating systems like a blaster.... everything always gets a DAing at the end on machinable surfaces...
 
Ever use one of those 18 volt cordless impact wrenches?

My Craftsman ratchet broke today and I am starting on the quarters tomorrow...are most of those bolts even reachable by an impact wrench like that?

Sears still have lifetime guarantee on tools? :dunno:
 
i've had my 18 volt Snappy for 12 yrs now..

not sure on sears power tool gig...

you'lll want a 3/8 hand ratchet setup of some sort, you'll need shallow or wrench stuff back at the tailpan corner.. plus the cutoff wheel setup.. a fair amount of the well bolts and some of the floor to inner bolts you may be able to get to with a 1/2 cordless impact and some creative extension set ups...
 
Why screw with a cordless when you have a crazy compressed air setup? Air impacts are far stronger than electric ones.
 
Chevy305 said:
Why screw with a cordless when you have a crazy compressed air setup? Air impacts are far stronger than electric ones.
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I got a repair kit for my hand ratchet today, but my shoulder is killing me (I have a pinched nerve up there somewhere) was just trying to think of something that would fit in there and do most of the twisting so I don't have to...maybe an air ratchet?

Got time to think about it anyway, it's raining off and on here and I feel bad anyway.
 
realize that acid dipping strips everywhere also, including all the little areas you can't get to...like those seams inside the fender panels. My dipper sprays the panels after a washing with a water soluable antirust solution, that must be washed off and thoroughly dried before any further prep can be done, like treatment of those hard to reach seams, which if not treated soon afterward will become rusty in a matter of a few days in the humid atmosphere you must enjoy also!
 
76zimmer said:
realize that acid dipping strips everywhere also, including all the little areas you can't get to...like those seams inside the fender panels. My dipper sprays the panels after a washing with a water soluable antirust solution, that must be washed off and thoroughly dried before any further prep can be done, like treatment of those hard to reach seams, which if not treated soon afterward will become rusty in a matter of a few days in the humid atmosphere you must enjoy also!
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Who does acid dipping? Is it expensive?:dunno:
 
I removed the bolts on the outer side of the rear wheel tub...that's the only bolts I see...is the rest of the quarter held on only by welds?
 
if you're under the rig, you'll see the folded down lip where the floor meets the qrter in front and behind the well... you should have a few in front of the wrll, and maybe 4 or 5 between the well and c-post..

also, from under neath if you look up in the corners at the end of the tailpan, you'll see a couple bolts holding the tailpan to the qrter...
 
ryoken said:
if you're under the rig, you'll see the folded down lip where the floor meets the qrter in front and behind the well... you should have a few in front of the wrll, and maybe 4 or 5 between the well and c-post..

also, from under neath if you look up in the corners at the end of the tailpan, you'll see a couple bolts holding the tailpan to the qrter...
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Thanks...I also had a look at the new quarter and can see places where bolts are supposed to be. I only took the tub bolts off, I am wiped out.

On the red fender I got in the junk yard, the trim is neatly riveted on...is that factory...and what kind of drill bit do I need to get them out? I broke off three normal drill bits trying to cut through one....
 
you'd have to show me the rivet in question.. if it's an actual rivet, it could be stainless, thus much more difficult to drill.. but doable with a fresh bit...
 
ryoken said:
you'd have to show me the rivet in question.. if it's an actual rivet, it could be stainless, thus much more difficult to drill.. but doable with a fresh bit...
Click to expand...

Well...they are rusty so they probably aren't stainless...it is likely my cheap chinese HF drill bits...

01DSC_0002.JPG
 
ummm, yeah, HF is probably the last place I'd buy drill bits....
 
I hope to get to removing the quarters this weekend and I intend to photo document this very well because there doesn't appear to be any good documentation on the web for 1973-75 quarter panels.

I know Paul will be busy soon with his new crew cab, so I will try to get answers in advance when I can and not wait until I am actually under the truck on the weekend to try to get an answer.

That said...it appears that this might be easier if I remove the rear wheel and also, do you think it will necessary to remove the whole wheel tub, or should I be good with just removing the outer bolts? :dunno:
 
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either or.... i had wells, so mine came off with the qrters.. they are strictly bolt-in.. it also wouldn't hurt to inspect, clean, prime and reseamseal the joint from well to floor.. whichever you think will be easiest...
 
Try to prep the fenders for sandblasting...at the bottom of the red fender the bolt head broke off when I was taking it off at the parts yard.

Tonight I tried PB Blaster and propane torch...it would not come out.

I tried drilling a hole through the center, which I did...it still will not come out.

What's the best way to deal with this? I am going to need that to bolt the fender to the bottom.

01DSC_0001.JPG
 
your too close, i can't see where that is... i assume it's a welded or captured nut.. may have to cut a window, rip out, fab, close up kinda gig..
 
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