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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
make em hot! 
It rained off and on all day so I couldn't pull the Blazer out of the garage...I don't have room to walk in there anymore...I cut the little "window" on the fender bottom in order to weld a flared nut and realized I can't get to my welder unless I pull the the Blazer out of the garage...
Weather is supposed to be fine all day tomorrow so full speed ahead on the quarters then...
I got to get some of this stuff put back on the Blazer soon or I am gonna break my neck stumbling over stuff...
Weather is supposed to be fine all day tomorrow so full speed ahead on the quarters then...
I got to get some of this stuff put back on the Blazer soon or I am gonna break my neck stumbling over stuff...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good luck buddy!
The blazer is in primer, why's it matter if it gets wet?
That's a good question....guess I am still treating it like I got the guts in the dash still and some of the interior....I dunno...doesn't feel right to let it rain on it....
Chief - are you using zinc phosphate for primer? What are you going to put on top of the primer?
Zinc Chromate on bare metal and Dupont Nason 2K Urethane Primer. On top of that will go Dupont Chroma Base and Chroma Clear.
Pictures of the driver's side quarter panel coming off:
Removing the bolts from wheel house, one in front of wheel house and 3 behind it and 2 in the tailpan
Removing the bolts from wheel house, one in front of wheel house and 3 behind it and 2 in the tailpan
Now the big welds at the read bottom of the QP where it meets the floor and outside tailpan:
Up front the inside "B" pillar had welds and then around the door jamb:
Now, off with the quarter panel:
B pillar got some rust, I wire wheeled it and wire brushed it and put rust converter on it.
The rear floor at the "C" pillar is kind of nasty.
B pillar got some rust, I wire wheeled it and wire brushed it and put rust converter on it.
The rear floor at the "C" pillar is kind of nasty.
Now...curiosity got the best of me and I didn't follow Ryoken's instructions...I didn't continue and remove and replace the tailpan yet...
I got wrapped up in trying to see if the LMC Quarter was going to fit or not.
I had a lot of trouble with it. The quarter panel has a brace up front that fits into the "B" pillar....I could not get that to fit to save my life.
I then measured the original panel and it measured 68 1/4" from inside B to C pillar. The LMC panel measured like 67" at top and nearly 68" at bottom.
So I drilled the welds loose on that piece and adjusted it and measured and re-welded it.
I got wrapped up in trying to see if the LMC Quarter was going to fit or not.
I had a lot of trouble with it. The quarter panel has a brace up front that fits into the "B" pillar....I could not get that to fit to save my life.
I then measured the original panel and it measured 68 1/4" from inside B to C pillar. The LMC panel measured like 67" at top and nearly 68" at bottom.
So I drilled the welds loose on that piece and adjusted it and measured and re-welded it.
After I adjusted the brace, it fit much better, but the bottom of the panel won't go flush for me....the panel is definitely long enough, it's like that lip it too wide or there needs to be a "channel" in the rocker panel down there?
Oh well....guess I will do as I was told and remove the other quarter and replace the tailpan, then worry about fitment.
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Hows the panel "feel" compared to the original? Is it going to crumble in a strong wind?
Great photos. I have the same questions also. Are LMC rear quarters as thick as the original? Are the rear quarters USA made? Are you still going to use the rear wheel well piece that you bought?
They aren't as heavy as the originals, but they aren't that weak either. The issue seems to be the crappy quality control...bad spacing...measurements off...etc...
If you are looking for a "I told you so" then I say OK, your point has been made...the aftermarket stuff is not as good as the original....I found that out with the fenders.
But where do you suggest I get a set of originals?
My choices were to either to use a lot of filler, do extensive metal repairs on the originals I have or get aftermarket. Looks like either way I will have to do work to make them fit...that's what I was hoping to avoid, but too late for that...I can't send them back.
I will either make them fit or I will start cutting and patching the originals.
No. My guess is that they a 1 gauge thinner...original might have been 18g and these are probably 20g.
When I get a chance I will weigh them and get exact weight differences.
No....there are no USA made whole quarter panels period. And all the aftermarket ones are made in the same place in Taiwan. I have bought from Rock Auto, GoodMark, and LMC...every one of them have the same manufacturers stickers on the the inside of the panel. If you got a good panel from one of them you just got lucky....If you put them side by side they do have differences...they are not exact copies.
If for some reason I decide to still use the original quarters, yes I will use the patch piece.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Been following this a while... This picture struck me as kinda funny given that this thread started out as a "fix a little rust on the top of the bed rail" and has turned into a "cut away and replace the entire quarterpanel". It's not a criticism but a reminder of how that always seems to happen on ck5.
