FYI...the aftermarket quarter weighs exactly 50 Lbs.
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I picked up a used Millermatic 120V Mig welder on the cheap on CL. I've been practicing spot welds on 22g metal using .030 flux core wire. This is so that I don't waste a lot of gas practicing. When I go to gas I'm going to use .023 wire. I found some good wire to use. ESAB easy grind. My plan is to cut and patch the originals while they are on the K5.
Are you putting down the 2K primer right ofter the Zinc primer?
After lightly scuffing it with a maroon 3M pad...got to give the primer something to grip to.
After having used both, I think I prefer the .030 wire....and practicing with flux core did me no good when I went to solid core and gas...they are so different it almost doesn't translate. Get ready to forget whatever speed and heat you got used to practicing with flux core...the gas is much, much cleaner but the feed and heat settings will be different. I am having a hard time with .023...I had much better results with the .030....don't know why.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Great photos chief!
Been following this a while... This picture struck me as kinda funny given that this thread started out as a "fix a little rust on the top of the bed rail" and has turned into a "cut away and replace the entire quarterpanel". It's not a criticism but a reminder of how that always seems to happen on ck5.
That's because where there is a little rust, there is really a lot more rust...and I have no intentions of doing this again in 5 years....
run the wire speed quite a bit faster for .023...voltage should be the same setting.
I will say this...talking about the very first part of this thread...I was most "scared" when I sanded off the top of that bedrail...like jumping off into deep water...
Today I had that same feeling...like I had done something that I couldn't put back again....scared that I had damaged the original QP removing it and scared that the new one might not work...like I bit off more than I can chew.
Today I had that same feeling...like I had done something that I couldn't put back again....scared that I had damaged the original QP removing it and scared that the new one might not work...like I bit off more than I can chew.
It's normal to feel that way. you've done well so far, and you've come so far with your skills and knowledge. You'll do fine with this too. 
Think I answered my own question....look...the original QP has the edge trimmed...the new one is full thickness all the way to the end....
I have yet to cut the rust out in the k5. Your body looks better then mine when you started. I may have a lot of rust also. I'm still debating if I do it right or take sort cuts.
yup, that section needs to be trimmed... make sure you go back and clean all the ripped out spotwelds, etc with a grinder too...
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Chief, I haven't been following the thread lately due to fogginess from turkey hunting. Finally got a chance to catch up this morning.
Its probably too late now, but in addition to buying better bits, you need to go up a size or two when drilling those rivets.
The temptation is to use a bit just a little bit bigger than the hole to use it as a pilot hole.
But that will almost always result in the bit grabbing and snapping. Instead use a bit too big to go into the hole.
The hole will keep it centered, and the bit will cut the joint between the shaft and the head.
Then the head will come off and you can punch the rest out the back.
If it hits the little tit in the center of the rivet it will stop. That part is usually really hard.
But, the piece is just jammed in there. You can drive it out the back side with a small punch and then finish drilling.
Its probably too late now, but in addition to buying better bits, you need to go up a size or two when drilling those rivets.
The temptation is to use a bit just a little bit bigger than the hole to use it as a pilot hole.
But that will almost always result in the bit grabbing and snapping. Instead use a bit too big to go into the hole.
The hole will keep it centered, and the bit will cut the joint between the shaft and the head.
Then the head will come off and you can punch the rest out the back.
If it hits the little tit in the center of the rivet it will stop. That part is usually really hard.
But, the piece is just jammed in there. You can drive it out the back side with a small punch and then finish drilling.
Useless information for anybody interested
Original driver's side quarter panel weighs 60 pounds
LMC quarter panel weighs 50 pounds
Other factors: Original QP has paint and primer on it, tailgate lock things and bolts
I don't know how much that weighs, but probably a pound or two?
Original driver's side quarter panel weighs 60 pounds
LMC quarter panel weighs 50 pounds
Other factors: Original QP has paint and primer on it, tailgate lock things and bolts
I don't know how much that weighs, but probably a pound or two?
would you rather use the new panels or fix the old?
I went out there and tightened the bolts a bit on that panel and then put my hands on it and shook the truck...they feel pretty darn solid...enough so that it has eased my mind about them...and that's with just two bolts in it.
Let's wait and see when they are bolted and welded up....
I'm impressed you really have taken on a lot and are learning so much. Thank you for sharing with us your progress and learnings. I'm surprised with how much rust was inside the c pillar.
Ryoken (Paul), on that B pillar....is it enough that I wire wheeled and wire brushed it an put Eastwood rust converter on it, or should it get the sandblaster?
you already know the answer... it's up to you and what you can live with..... the cleaner the steel, the less likely it'll return..
Oh jesus, I thought my 73 was bad when I did a full resto on it.
I am sure glad I live in CA now and don't have to deal with this kind of problems.
