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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

I belive he means like this, the yellow V in my edit being the compass. To start at the bottom and scribe it up. One end in thhe "crotch" of the door jam area and the other scribing into the new panel a line which is perfectly parallel to the jam.

driverside.jpg


If you dont know, this is the compass being referenced in this case.

%2528%2BWikimedia%2BCommons%2529450px-Compass_%2528drafting%2529.jpg
 
Not sure if this would work but rather then trim the edge what if you made several cuts so it would be like an acordian that could pivot about?
 
Not sure if this would work but rather then trim the edge what if you made several cuts so it would be like an acordian that could pivot about?

That would assume the curve he has doesn't match the door.
I would put the door first and see what I need to do to make it match.
It could actually be good the way it is.
:dunno:
 
That would assume the curve he has doesn't match the door.
I would put the door first and see what I need to do to make it match.
It could actually be good the way it is.
:dunno:


It doesn't match my door right now...my door matches the rocker panel curve...right now the bottom of the quarter sticks way out beyond the door....
maybe that's why the door ends were bent outward...somebody tried to make it fit...
 
It doesn't match my door right now...my door matches the rocker panel curve...right now the bottom of the quarter sticks way out beyond the door....
maybe that's why the door ends were bent outward...somebody tried to make it fit...
OK first thing I would do is release the bottom clamp, it's not letting you flatten out the curve to push it in.
Then see what is stopping it from going in further, keep trimming what touches until you match the door unless the door curve is no good and you feel you should fix that first.
 
Just a thought, (had to do this myself for the rocker/ Q-panel allignment, but no pinch in this area on the first gen) but if grinding down the lip doesn't bring in the bottom of that Q panel, you could slice the bottom pinch off. Install a sheet metal screw through the panel and into the B post. Manipulate the screws depth into the B post so the bottom of the Q panel lines up with the outside of the rocker. Then figure out how much you need to take off the pinch weld piece that you have already taken off, so that everything flows out nice (door, rocker and Q-panel). Weld your pinch back to the bottom of the Q-panel and suck it all back in with the clamps and weld your plug welds.


Does this make any sense? I think I still have the screws in the bottom of my Q-panel if you need pics.
 
Chief i was wondering if you could really quickly summarize the tools you bought for cutting panels and installing new ones? I've alreadby got a stick and TIG welder but i'm wondering what else i need. thanks.
 
Does this make any sense? I think I still have the screws in the bottom of my Q-panel if you need pics.

If you got em...

I think you are saying cut off that pinch weld on the quarter entirely....then line up and shave off whatever is necessary off the bottom and then weld the pinch lip back on???:dunno:
 
Chief i was wondering if you could really quickly summarize the tools you bought for cutting panels and installing new ones? I've alreadby got a stick and TIG welder but i'm wondering what else i need. thanks.

Man...I am not the person to ask about this...but I got a MIG, tin snips, pneumatic cutting tool, burr grinder, spot weld cutting bits, air hammer, hammer and dolly set, door skin hammer set....etc..
 

If you got em...

I think you are saying cut off that pinch weld on the quarter entirely....then line up and shave off whatever is necessary off the bottom and then weld the pinch lip back on???:dunno:


That's my idea. I'm pretty quick to pick up the cutoff wheel though. Maybe you don't need to and there is a less intrusive way to correct the panel. Just putting it out there.


I'll go see if those screws are in there still. Can't remember if I finished or just moved on.
 
That's my idea. I'm pretty quick to pick up the cutoff wheel though. Maybe you don't need to and there is a less intrusive way to correct the panel. Just putting it out there.


I'll go see if those screws are in there still. Can't remember if I finished or just moved on.

I gotta be honest, I think the lip is going to have to come off.....I believe that's where the problem is....but i do want to be absolutely sure before I go cutting....
 
On the bright side, anything you cut off can be glued back together with the old welder!

It can, but it isn't my strong point and long weld seams are worse than little 2 inch squares...
 
Here are those pics. Not really anything big, but it may help you hold everything if you need to. I think I maybe used a screw or two in the lip before I welded the holes closed too.
Still have a lot of work in this area to do as far as body work. Once I get done with the tube fab, I'll be back on it and finish it all for the last time.


IMAG1790.jpg


IMAG1791.jpg
 
Here are those pics. Not really anything big, but it may help you hold everything if you need to. I think I maybe used a screw or two in the lip before I welded the holes closed too.

ahhhh....now I see....thanks....I will be messing with it all day tomorrow...
 
It looks to me like a little hammer and dolly work on the panel to move the bottom bend would let the panel go back. The panel might stick down a bit and need to be trimmed afterwards.
 
I have been working it from top-down....I may try working it from bottom up and see what happens...
 
It looks to me like a little hammer and dolly work on the panel to move the bottom bend would let the panel go back. The panel might stick down a bit and need to be trimmed afterwards.
That is why I said he need to let go of the bottom clamp, as long as he's holding it there, he can't flatten that arc to get it in, assuming he has it also clamped or tacked on top too.
 
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