How thick of a shim should go on the body mount?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ryoken green
You need to try, use 1/8" shims, my guess you might need 1/4"
And i am only doing it to the driver's side or do I need to put shims under the passenger side as well to even it out
and...where can you get big shims?
Are we talking about the mount position that is #12 in this picture?
#12 won't do anything, you can adjust that position with the hinges, you need #19
But that's way behind the door jamb....the "hump" will be somewhere in the bed floor...just in front of the wheel tubs
Will this be noticeable immediately or is it something that will "creep and bow" as you drive it?
It will show immediately.
You don't need to do this if you want to work on the gaps differently.
Just adjust the door to get a good gap at the quarter, then bend the door wing window to get the gap at the windshield.
anybody here ever put the upper door hinge pin in upside down with a keeper on it?
heard that this is the best way to go when you get your doors aligned...when you need to remover your door again just drop the pins and out she comes...
heard that this is the best way to go when you get your doors aligned...when you need to remover your door again just drop the pins and out she comes...
anybody here ever put the upper door hinge pin in upside down with a keeper on it?
heard that this is the best way to go when you get your doors aligned...when you need to remover your door again just drop the pins and out she comes...
chief check out the tech
http://coloradok5.com/doorhingepins.shtml
I just ordered some new brushing and pins for the door. I'm deciding if I should do the quick release.
Wow...I won't be needing to remove my doors much if any...but great idea..to make it more permanent you could use roll pins...or maybe set screws if you could thread it...and I could leave the splines on for extra grip...
my reason is really only for painting the door or assembly after painting...
Did you have the tab at the bottom of your door hinge pin? Did you end up cutting or grinding down the tab to remove the door?
no...my old hinge pins look like big nails...and I haven't removed them at all yet...I got to replace bushings though.....
Chief -
1. When you use the zinc chromate are you also using it over existing paint?
I'm going to sand down an area. Some will be bare metal and the other area will be the old paint that is feathered.
2. What do you paint on after the zinc chromate? What brand are you using?
3. How long can I wait between the zinc chromate and the next step?
1. When you use the zinc chromate are you also using it over existing paint?
I'm going to sand down an area. Some will be bare metal and the other area will be the old paint that is feathered.
2. What do you paint on after the zinc chromate? What brand are you using?
3. How long can I wait between the zinc chromate and the next step?
No...it is for bare metal only.
Spray the zinc on the bare metal...some will overspray onto the surrounding area...scuff it lightly with a scotch pad after it dries this will take it off the painted surfaces
Nason 2k Urethane primer
With a true Ryoken "pisscoat", this stuff dries very quickly...but I would wait at least a half hour, more if you got the time...the more time you allow it to outgas and dry the less chance of any undesired reaction...I know it's ridiculous but I like to spray one weekend and scuff and prime the next weekend...lots of time to dry and cure...in the rocess of learning I have sometimes been impatient and maybe went to next step too soon...I did spray zinc once on a spot and only waited 10 minutes..when I scuffed it it was still a little soft...at least the very outside...
I am not sure how long Ryoken waits after Zinc
for truly the best adhesion between materials, it's always best to let it thoroughly dry and sand/scuff with an appropriate grit... this is always the case, with any coatings...
that being said, wet on wet apps are a common shortcut and stepsaver.. some materials lend themselves better to this than others... I've been known to spray 2k right over untouched zinc a 1/2 hr later... but as I said, technically, your always best waiting for any substrate to thoroughly dry first...
and pushing wet on wet limits with various products can also get you in trouble on occasion with compatability and bleed-thru issues...
I will try to pay attention to this thread more in the coming weeks bud....
I haven't read all the posts, but it appears the brotherhood has stepped up once again to help out.... 
that being said, wet on wet apps are a common shortcut and stepsaver.. some materials lend themselves better to this than others... I've been known to spray 2k right over untouched zinc a 1/2 hr later... but as I said, technically, your always best waiting for any substrate to thoroughly dry first...
and pushing wet on wet limits with various products can also get you in trouble on occasion with compatability and bleed-thru issues...
I will try to pay attention to this thread more in the coming weeks bud....
I haven't read all the posts, but it appears the brotherhood has stepped up once again to help out....
OK...I got the new panel today...I can report that LMC did all they could be expected to do...their customer service was outstanding, as they replaced it and I didn't have to pay anything...this is a $300 part and the shipping is about $150.
I have to also report that apparently the manufacturer just makes them that way because it is identical to the old one in the area that I sent it back for.
Luckily this one is in better shape all over...I will have to cut and paste a piece in there to make it work.
That said, it fits a little better than the other one....
I have to also report that apparently the manufacturer just makes them that way because it is identical to the old one in the area that I sent it back for.
Luckily this one is in better shape all over...I will have to cut and paste a piece in there to make it work.
That said, it fits a little better than the other one....
more
Now...new issue...I started to bolt them up a bit and I find that some of the bolts don't line up...although measuring reveals that they are dead on center...
the very top center bolt on the drivers tub aligns perfectly...the rest in the tub do not...the rear three behind the wheel do...the one in front of the wheel does not
the very top center bolt on the drivers tub aligns perfectly...the rest in the tub do not...the rear three behind the wheel do...the one in front of the wheel does not
thanks for suggesting this, I put in a quarter inch of shims on each side and it didn't do anything
at least not to the gap at the windshield and door sail
your not tightening the bolts are you? just get a couple threads going on each one.... a #2 phillips head screwdriver makes a decent line up tool for such a job.
