Then I had to fix the bad spot that they also do wrong at the manufacturing....
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
After I finished that I put weld through primer in all the spots I needed it and put the quarter on and bolted it up loosely, messed with the passenger door gap for about 2 hours and realized the best I could get is an even gap at the bottom, an even gap at the window sail and a terrible gap at the quarter.
Nothing I did would fix it...it's too big at the top...I took the shims out of the body mount that I had put in yesterday...not much help.
The quarter was fitting everywhere...still don't know what's up with the door gap there...but I decided to go ahead and tack in into place...thinking that I have options to maybe fix that gap.
Nothing I did would fix it...it's too big at the top...I took the shims out of the body mount that I had put in yesterday...not much help.
The quarter was fitting everywhere...still don't know what's up with the door gap there...but I decided to go ahead and tack in into place...thinking that I have options to maybe fix that gap.
The mud on the body line is because the body line gets broad right at the door...it is not sharp and crisp anymore...so I am having to recreate it with filler...
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Chief - I took the K5 out of the garage today and start to get it ready for the knife!! aka cut off wheel.
Looks like you got some of the green zinc on the painted EDP section. Are you going to leave it on or take it off?
It is amazing to see how far you have come since the start of this thread.
Looks like you got some of the green zinc on the painted EDP section. Are you going to leave it on or take it off?
It is amazing to see how far you have come since the start of this thread.
Is the yellow stuff on the rear quarter the 2k fill primer?
I am going to leave it, in this situation only because that part is inside the B Pillar and will never be seen again...dang it...I should've shot that with 2K...I forgot and it's too late now...
Does this go after or before the 2k primer?
Ryoken says all major filling should be done on bare metal. You can use a skim coat or glaze on top of fill primer...but not more than that...
The surface should be as good as you can get it before you prime it...you should only be using filler after that because you see something you missed or something went wrong...even then, you usually want to sand the spot back down to bare metal and then fill it and feather it out and spot prime.
I'm sure Ryoken will correct if this is wrong...it may well be that you don't even skim coat filler over primer....
Yeah you want to work it best you can so you don't really need use filler to make sure you don't have any imperfection, then you use fill primer for scratches.
all body filler should be on bare metal, or on top of itself... once primer is on, the only thing that should be on top of that is glazing putty...
I am trying to remember if seam sealer go on before 2K primer or after....
it's better after...
what is glazing putty? Does this only go over the RAGE Gold filler?
you really should go back and read this thread, this has all been covered...
glazing putty is a thin, creamy filler that is applied very thinly, usually with a squeegie, over fresh primer to fill sandscratches and minor imperfections in the body filler work under the fill primer... it is not meant for dent repair or anything excessive, it is meant for scratches, pinholes and minor imperfections...
it is usually applied over primer that has just cured, this gives it a chemical bond... once the putty dries, it is wetsanded with 180 to 220 grit than those areas are reprimed with fill primer...
glazing putty is a thin, creamy filler that is applied very thinly, usually with a squeegie, over fresh primer to fill sandscratches and minor imperfections in the body filler work under the fill primer... it is not meant for dent repair or anything excessive, it is meant for scratches, pinholes and minor imperfections...
it is usually applied over primer that has just cured, this gives it a chemical bond... once the putty dries, it is wetsanded with 180 to 220 grit than those areas are reprimed with fill primer...
Hi Chief - How is this respirator working out for you? Is this what you use when putting on the primer? Just to be safe I'm going to use this with the DA sander as I remove paint.
That's not the exact mask I use, but I wear one anytime I am doing anything dusty or chemical...
Both quarters are now welded on!!! I have not done the filet welds on the rear of either.....
I put the tailgate on and there is almost no gap...1/8 or less...I wasn't expecting to have to deal with too little gap....
On the drivers door I was able to get the rear gap even, but it is still too big...but I decided to go ahead and weld the panel on.
Here's pics...it isn't pretty...in fact it's a mess...
I put the tailgate on and there is almost no gap...1/8 or less...I wasn't expecting to have to deal with too little gap....
On the drivers door I was able to get the rear gap even, but it is still too big...but I decided to go ahead and weld the panel on.
Here's pics...it isn't pretty...in fact it's a mess...
The floor is not welded down yet, that's why the tailgate is high...
What's the procedure for when the gaps are that tight?...there is virtually no travel left to right in the quarter to the tailpan...I had to use a crowbar and swaging tool just to get the bolt started...
I'm guessing that the quarters need to come out a little on each side, but I am not sure they will cooperate...
What's the procedure for when the gaps are that tight?...there is virtually no travel left to right in the quarter to the tailpan...I had to use a crowbar and swaging tool just to get the bolt started...
I'm guessing that the quarters need to come out a little on each side, but I am not sure they will cooperate...
