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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
I'm just skimming thru this...

eeesh, wrench was not the right tool.. should have used a heavy mallet or sledge and block of wood...

as Ice suggested, get the spoon in there leveraging and work the surrounding areas with the hammer...

i'll try to get in here and reread this over the rainy weekend...
 
ryoken said:
I'm just skimming thru this...

eeesh, wrench was not the right tool.. should have used a heavy mallet or sledge and block of wood...

as Ice suggested, get the spoon in there leveraging and work the surrounding areas with the hammer...

i'll try to get in here and reread this over the rainy weekend...
Click to expand...
Yeah I wasn't going to talk about what was already done, just trying to help fix the damage.
Those kinks from the edge of the wrench will need filler, no way he's going to be able to get them smooth, well maybe he'll surprise us and learn body work skills.:dunno:
 
Is/was the striker plate in the correct position and you still needed to bend the entire lip out like that?
 
imiceman44 said:
Yeah I wasn't going to talk about what was already done, just trying to help fix the damage.
Those kinks from the edge of the wrench will need filler, no way he's going to be able to get them smooth, well maybe he'll surprise us and learn body work skills.:dunno:
Click to expand...

I thought about using the deadblow hammer...the thing that made me try the wrench is that the last time I used a hammer I busted stuff...and I figured the hammer would dent in the inside the same as pushing out the outside...and bending with the wrench created a "controlled" bend where I could see exactly where the edge was going...what I didn't think about was that the wrench was digging in and making dings like that...
and it didn't occur to me at all to try to get in between the skins and press it out...
 
NorCal69 said:
Is/was the striker plate in the correct position and you still needed to bend the entire lip out like that?
Click to expand...

No, the entire door isn't that way...it's only midway down to bottom where the problem is...
 
Here's my results after jamming the spoon in and just a little tapping with a hammer...
spreading the inner and outer sheetmetal put some body back into the very rear of the door...actually looks more normal now...just wish I had thought of that before using a stupid wrench...

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that looks much better..... some patience with a spoon and hammer can probably get a good portion of it.... remember what I've talked about in the past about lot's and lot's of light hitting, not a few heavy hits....

actually I think that was in my fender sectioning tips that i talked about that now that i think about it... :doah:

the other thing you may want to pick up at some point is some sort of hammer with a shrinking face on it.. mine are INVALUABLE.... they help in "drawing in" stretched metal from the surrounding area to where your hitting...

the longboard and 36 will also help ya out acting as a metal file if you run it over the area to check for straightness and low spots...
 
I still need to get that curve "correct" and then drill roll pin holes in my hinges and then remove the door and do the bodywork...guess I should tap the door curve with a hammer and check...then hammer and check....and hammer and check...until it's right???
 
ryoken said:
the other thing you may want to pick up at some point is some sort of hammer with a shrinking face on it.. mine are INVALUABLE.... they help in "drawing in" stretched metal from the surrounding area to where your hitting...
Click to expand...

I got a framing hammer that has a funny looking "meat mallet" face...probably too big?
 
nah, do the bodywork in place.... get your metal worked as best ya can, than grind the back 6"s of the door and the beginning 6"s of the qrter, fill both and longboard both at the same time till good...
 
ryoken said:
nah, do the bodywork in place.... get your metal worked as best ya can, than grind the back 6"s of the door and the beginning 6"s of the qrter, fill both and longboard both at the same time till good...
Click to expand...

ahhhhh....hadn't thought of that...I need to go buy a rolling stool...the plastic milk crate I have been using leaves "waffle" mark on my butt after a few hours..:eek1:
 
upside down 5 gallon buckets are the seat of choice in the Dungeon...
 
ryoken said:
upside down 5 gallon buckets are the seat of choice in the Dungeon...
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If I am going to do this work with the door on, I am going to need something...I can't bend too good these days...

I also got to measure and mark and drill holes for the NutSerts for the mirrors...are jack nuts as good as nut serts?
 
What a beautiful day it was here....worked hard and got a lot done...and some strange results...

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Yes I sanded down the Ryoken Green before I primered it...

Now...the strange...as it dried, I saw the outline of the Green Primer, and the body filler and even the sanding scratches...:dunno:

I don't recall seeing that in any of my other primer jobs...maybe I didn't notice?

Will let it dry overnight and have a look in the sun and see if still looks that way...
 
Chief Brody said:
Yes I sanded down the Ryoken Green before I primered it...

Now...the strange...as it dried, I saw the outline of the Green Primer, and the body filler and even the sanding scratches...:dunno:

I don't recall seeing that in any of my other primer jobs...maybe I didn't notice?

Will let it dry overnight and have a look in the sun and see if still looks that way...
Click to expand...

chief - Are you concerned about over spray and getting your neighbors vehicles? How about people walking by with out a respirator? My concern is that I only have 1 2/2 car lengths in my drive way. The sidewalk is used rather heavily.
 
max 02 said:
Looks good from the pictures... are you happy?
Gotta say your wheels make me drool!:thumb:
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It's getting there...I would have preferred to use no filler at all...but that didn't seem to be in the cards
 
max 02 said:
Gotta say your wheels make me drool!:thumb:
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Thanks! I like 'em too...love the old white steel wheels...still working on a set of skinnies 15x6 for it..I have 3...that's for running full hubcaps when I want the true Amity PD look...
 
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