so you have 3 sets, or you have 3 of 4?
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
smier
1/2 ton status
That is a beautiful sight!
I got 3 of 4...the first set I put together and had powdercoated turned out to be 15x5.5 and for drum brakes only...they wouldn't fit...so I have been buying the correct wheels when I see them...I now have three...
SO that is what it is.
I had a set on my 70 chevy all drums, and when I tried to put them on my newer 77, they didn't fit right.
I need to measure the wheel width, I have one tire off of one rim.
SO that is what it is.
I had a set on my 70 chevy all drums, and when I tried to put them on my newer 77, they didn't fit right.
I need to measure the wheel width, I have one tire off of one rim.
It's the back-spacing more than anything...has to be at least -3.75 to -4.00 to clear the calipers
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Great work as usual!
Looks fine after I lightly blocked it...found a couple spots I am going to have to add some filler to...
The passenger side is giving me trouble...big ugly gap at the top and small uneven gap at bottom...
ds looks good..
on the ps side how even is the door to rocker gap, and how is the qrter to door body line peak lining up?
keep bangin at it bro!
on the ps side how even is the door to rocker gap, and how is the qrter to door body line peak lining up?
keep bangin at it bro!
ds looks good..
on the ps side how even is the door to rocker gap, and how is the qrter to door body line peak lining up?
keep bangin at it bro!
Door to rocker gap is smaller at the rear than the front
I can get the body line lined up, but when I do, so far the rest of the door isn't.
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The door curve lines up nicely on this side, and it's easy to get real pretty gap at the door sail...
it's the door/quarter gap that's killing me and the door / rocker gap..
it's the door/quarter gap that's killing me and the door / rocker gap..
Iceman has advised me that the way to solve this is to put shims in the body mount positions forward and rear and to then tighten down on the middle position mount...thus squeezing together that gap....
I am a little leary of doing this on one side....torsion...troubles???
I am a little leary of doing this on one side....torsion...troubles???
if you can "draw down" the B-pillar by shimming the body mounts at the a and behind, give it a shot... it shouldn't affect the other side.... just keep an eye on the tailgate...
Problem is on the rear one it will be the one above and behind the rear axle...it is a flat block that is under the bed...it is a mess to get too...the bolt is also welded to the bed floor...that position requires you to undo the tailpan to bed bolts and lift up the whole body from the rear...not sure I am up for that...
I wonder if just shimming the "A" position would do anything?
i would try that first....
Is there any truth to the thought that you should hang an empty door 1/8 inch high because when you add the insides the weight will bring it down that much?
I've never prescribed to that in 30 yrs of bodywork... if hinges are solid, it's bolted, where it's bolted...
if the hinges are sloppy, possible... but even than, probably not, cuz it would be hanging anyway, whether a 45 lb shell, or 60 lb complete...
Thinking ahead to, hopefully shortly, when I can paint the firewall and get the drive train in, what can I do to make the ground points look neat?
I don't want to paint it and then take a grinder to it to make a spot for the ground straps on the firewall or on the frame. Is there another way?
I don't want to paint it and then take a grinder to it to make a spot for the ground straps on the firewall or on the frame. Is there another way?
