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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

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ryoken said:
yup.. you can usually cut it in 8 to 12...
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I will clarify this subject much more as that time approaches, and people want to know... as with many autobody subjects, I can talk for quite a while on the subject...

there are a lot of things about how different paints thru history dry/sand/buff, what their buffing properties are, best and easiest results, etc, etc.. I'll get into em as I feel we need to...
 
in a homemade booth? doubtful.... when I was squirting pro there where many hood/front clip jobs that you just had a couple minor spots to hit... as long as you where happy with the amount/style of peel, you'd just knock a few dust spots down with a little 600/1000 wheel it and out the door...

BUT.... that's a pro setup, full time prep, beyond excellent masking, spraying MANY cars a week, etc... different can of worms...

if, you can spray good... no issues.. you'll have a bit of wetsanding work on top surfaces more than likely.... for you, the hood... not a huge deal as you can generally load plenty of clear on a hood to aid in a cut/buff...

the sides will generally be pretty dust free... even in the worst of environments..
 
ryoken said:
if, you can spray good... no issues.. you'll have a bit of wetsanding work on top surfaces more than likely.... for you, the hood... not a huge deal as you can generally load plenty of clear on a hood to aid in a cut/buff...

the sides will generally be pretty dust free... even in the worst of environments..
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ah...so the cut is because of contaminants and a bit of overspray....not usually because of runs and orange peel?

Also...I am 6 foot tall but that hood still requires a step stool to get to the center...how am I going to do that...should I spray the hood off or on?
 
you shouldn't have ANY overspray... ANY....

that's why you'll use slow hardener and reducer.. the bigger the job, the slower you want it to dry... anything in the air should melt right into the finish... I cannot reitterate this enough, you should have no overspray, dryspray, etc on a paint job..

a cut is done to remove dust and Pterodactyl's... maybe a sag here or there for noobs... as long as they aren't tearjerkers most stuff can be sanded out... metallics and color dependent... your's is a good color for hiding imperfections.....
 
oh.. i would suggest just spraying the hood on... make a low scaffold on either side at the fenders.. like 2 milkcrates with a board on em on either side...
 
ryoken said:
depends on the panel! :p:

on your rig...

ds fender, door, qrter, tailgate, qrter, door, ps fender, hood...
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I won't be able to open the door, so the window sail will be right beside the windshield frame...which will have already been based and cleared?

oh...I bet I have to mask it off...:dunno:
 
ryoken said:
depends on the panel! :p:

on your rig...

ds fender, door, qrter, tailgate, qrter, door, ps fender, hood...
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hahaha, I was thinking roof, roof, what about the roof...oh yeah its a vert!
 
76zimmer said:
hahaha, I was thinking roof, roof, what about the roof...oh yeah its a vert!
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that's why it's cake... ;)

any roof sucks..... hoods and trunks? a bit less... sides, easy peezy...


heck, I remember shooting van roof's and big 70's Cadillac roof stuff back in the day with single stage enamel metallics... :doah: :doah: :doah: :haha: :doah::doah:

the van's, ya didn't care much about dust, the car roof's, yeah, they gotta look good.. :doah: and they where HUGE!!! :haha:
 
I can tell you already where my trouble spots are going to be...

door jambs...window sail...any place that has a small place that's hard to get to..edges....maybe a curve...that's where I always end up spraying the primer too thick....
 
ryoken said:
that's why it's cake... ;)

any roof sucks..... hoods and trunks? a bit less... sides, easy peezy...


heck, I remember shooting van roof's and big 70's Cadillac roof stuff back in the day with single stage enamel metallics... :doah: :doah: :doah: :haha: :doah::doah:

the van's, ya didn't care much about dust, the car roof's, yeah, they gotta look good.. :doah: and they where HUGE!!! :haha:
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I worked in a Caddy dealership in 80-81...the body shop had a 76 limo in there to do a repaint for a local drug dealer...in Black of course...Tim the body/paint guy nailed it, and was doing the color sand and polish and the Kzoo tornado hit when he was about 1/2 done....pretty much fooked the whole car up, dents/debris scratches from the roof getting blown in...we were shi!!ing bricks ourselves...all said he had to pretty much redo the top panels on the car again...roof, decklid, and hood.
 
y5mgisi said:
I havent noticed it before, but your pretty quick with the jokes! Must be the heat getting to you.
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nah...not the heat...I'm just happy cause I got a Quadrajet! Last week I was wondering how in the world I was going to get one, today I ordered one with the money that I got from selling two of the carburetors that came with the Blazer....and to think I almost threw them away when I cleaned out the garage...:doah:
 
just need to watch and realize how much your putting on...

disciplined spraying techniques are key to good painting... not being lazy with gun technique... staying parallel to panels as opposed to arcing the gun, trigger control, etc..

as you just implied, crowns, bodylines, etc tend to get wetter, heavier coating.. often cuz it's getting hit from multiple angles, and pronounced...
 
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