Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

[Jester1]

Quick idea to add to fordums suggestion. Run you corner post (and possibly mid studs) up another foot past the top of the walls and then roof with tarp or luan plywood. It will give you a thermal break in between the two tops thus dropping internal temps. Think heat shield. Plus the cool water on the concrete prior to spraying and the ventilation system may/should keep you to around 80 degrees on a 100 degree day.

Thoughts?

Oh and in the tarp is large enough you can drape it to the side you get the late afternoon sun away from the side wall if you end up painting onto the afternoon. Roll it up in the morning for light then drop for afternoon.

 

[Chief Brody]

yeah...I just got reminded of the two-tone job I am doing...the white stripe...

How long do you have to wait before you can come back and mask off the base so you can paint the white stripe?

I know you can follow the the trim holes to get the line for the white stripe, but what about the very front part of the fender...it makes some curves there...and there are no holes...

 

[y5mgisi]

Could you possibly just set the trim up there and "trace it" with tape?

 

[ryoken]

various olive green fineline tapes... 1/2, 3/4 or 1" for the straights.. and narrower 1/4" or so for the bends...

you can usually tape base within an hr, sometimes 20, 30 minutes if your gentle.. catalyzed base would be even faster...

I shot my 69 Chevelle blue pearl in the morn, taped off and did the 3 graphic colors separate in base in the afternoon and had it cleared by dinner time..

now, that was a sweet paint job.. all graphics under clear, super deep and wet looking...

 

[ryoken]

http://www.google.com/search?q=3m+f....,cf.osb&fp=b074b8949114d66a&biw=1600&bih=770

 

[Chief Brody]

I tell you, it scares me even now to think about putting tape on a fresh finish...

 

[Chief Brody]

you can usually tape base within an hr, sometimes 20, 30 minutes if your gentle.. catalyzed base would be even faster...

remember, it will be hot and I will be using slow everything

 

[ryoken]

eh, it's no big... you can test it's dryness on the overspray that's on the masking paper to see how dry it is... like I said, base dries super fast.. like a lacquer...

I have 2 quick funny stories for ya about noob kids doing stoopid stuff stuff at the body shop... one kid walked up to a red hood i just painted and said, "is this wet?" as he was sticking his thumb in it...

the other was a kid in our other building detailing cars all afternoon, waxing, armor all-ing, etc... comes walking in the paint shop in between clear coats... and before i could say anything, the 2 cars he just walked by started fisheyeing all down their sides... "DUDE! STOP! TURN AROUND, LEAVE!!!

 

[ryoken]

remember, it will be hot and I will be using slow everything

the reducer don't matter much, it flashes out quick in base, whether slow or fast.. but heat will help it dry faster... don't overthink/worry this one too much.. it just makes the painting day a bit longer..... your best off shooting the white first, than tape it off, shoot gold, pull paper and clear...

 

[Chief Brody]

eh, it's no big... you can test it's dryness on the overspray that's on the masking paper to see how dry it is... like I said, base dries super fast.. like a lacquer...

So you tape the base...spray the white...immediately remove the tape and spray clear?

one kid walked up to a red hood i just painted and said, "is this wet?" as he was sticking his thumb in it...

What you do with the body?

 

[ryoken]

eh, it was so stupid ya just had to laugh....

 

[Chief Brody]

the reducer don't matter much, it flashes out quick in base, whether slow or fast.. but heat will help it dry faster... don't overthink/worry this one too much.. it just makes the painting day a bit longer..... your best off shooting the white first, than tape it off, shoot gold, pull paper and clear...

you mean shoot white without any masking and then mask it and shoot gold over the white that is out of bounds?

 

[ryoken]

So you tape the base...spray the white...immediately remove the tape and spray clear?

say wha?

 

[Chief Brody]

Mask the truck leaving only the white stripe area exposed

Spray white (when to pull tape? immediately or wait till dry)

when white is dry, mask the white off and spray gold

then clear whole thing

 

[ryoken]

you mean shoot white without any masking and then mask it and shoot gold over the white that is out of bounds?

tape the truck off as if painting the whole vehicle... do a quick mask with 36" green and fineline of the surrounding area to the white... shoot white... pull that temp paper.... mask off white... shoot gold... pull paper off white.. clear everything...


you can "not mask off" the initial white, and just shoot gold over the extra white once the white is taped off... but it's a safer route as you'd like to keep any white base overspray off the hood, etc... you can, i have, you tack rag the hood, etc, but for a beginner, i'd rather see him be safer, and ensure a paintable surface on the hood, etc...

 

[ryoken]

Mask the truck leaving only the white stripe area exposed

no.. see above...


but yes, you generally want to pull paper/tape as soon as it's safely viable.. especially fineline, paintline type stuff...

 

[Chief Brody]

If I were to build the booth frame in 8 x 10 sections, whats the best fastener to use to fasten two units together?

Wood screws or is there something that would quickly "latch" and allow fast setup and tear down?

I may start putting this thing together a few boards at a time.

 

[y5mgisi]

Just long 3/8"s bots with wing nuts?

 

[Chief Brody]

Just long 3/8"s bots with wing nuts?

maybe...I just don't want it to be a PIA to take down......plus, what the heck am I going to do with it when finished?

 

[y5mgisi]

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