it's reasonable, don't look like anything will be too thick.... and yeah, use the door as a guide for the long board..
CK5
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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
Now for the next big whammy...the passenger side door gaps are not good.
The upper gap is too big. the lower too small...I think I need to remove the passenger fender and adjust the door. I do not believe there will be a need to mess with the quarter panel on that side...however...if I repeat the steps I just did to the drivers side door...who knows...
I have a feeling I am going to have trouble keeping the bottom gap even and straightening the rear gap...
I also got a fender bolt up high that goes through the core into the fender and the threaded part in the fender busted loose...there is no room to get the cutting tool in there...may have to use a hack saw blade with a glove...unless anyone has a better solution
The upper gap is too big. the lower too small...I think I need to remove the passenger fender and adjust the door. I do not believe there will be a need to mess with the quarter panel on that side...however...if I repeat the steps I just did to the drivers side door...who knows...
I have a feeling I am going to have trouble keeping the bottom gap even and straightening the rear gap...
I also got a fender bolt up high that goes through the core into the fender and the threaded part in the fender busted loose...there is no room to get the cutting tool in there...may have to use a hack saw blade with a glove...unless anyone has a better solution
I know a lot of this extra work has been my fault...but I have to attribute a large portion of to the badly made taiwan quarter panels...
get some pics up of the issues on the other side...
Photos coming...you will see that the front upper gap is tight and the rear upper is wide.
The rear lower is tight and the front lower is ok to a tiny bit big
The rear lower is tight and the front lower is ok to a tiny bit big
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is the bottom gap currently even?
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if the door is straight on bottom, that means the door is straight and the quarter and the fender aren't...doesn't it?
yes, same as the other side..
i was afraid you'd say that...
Only thing I can think of is to try to jack up the rear on that side and somehow push the top of the B-Pillar forward...although I have tried that before without any luck...
Maybe drill a hole in the door jamb part of the B-Pillar and use the come-a-long?
Just using shims makes the rear too high on that side.
Only thing I can think of is to try to jack up the rear on that side and somehow push the top of the B-Pillar forward...although I have tried that before without any luck...
Maybe drill a hole in the door jamb part of the B-Pillar and use the come-a-long?
Just using shims makes the rear too high on that side.
let me get back to it..
Wish I had known when I had it at this stage:
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if I drilled a hole in the upper front part of the B-Pillar (Door Jamb) and inserted a metal rod in the hole and then turned it sideways and had a hook attached to it and used the come-a-long, I wonder if that would pull it forward...or just mess up my door jamb?
Maybe drill two holes and fish a rope or wire through the holes.
Maybe drill two holes and fish a rope or wire through the holes.
go take a large framing square, and put it flat to the rocker and see how the qrter edge looks... does it progressively get wider to the top from the bottom, or is it mostly at the top... even a yardstick along that qrter edge to see if it's straight..
the qrter doesn't need to come forward at the top, the post needs to be bent forward.... could the very back body mount take a couple washers without f*ckin up the tailgate?
take a closer up pic of that door to qrter gap if ya can..
the qrter doesn't need to come forward at the top, the post needs to be bent forward.... could the very back body mount take a couple washers without f*ckin up the tailgate?
take a closer up pic of that door to qrter gap if ya can..
Have u tried to jack up the front right body mount a tad a see what that does. It might close up that gap at the bottom front of the door and open the rear bottom. The front cab support could be sagged a bit. I went thru that when I replaced my front cab supports and had to add shims under the body at that area to get mine straight. Might have to readjust the door some.
Just a suggestion, can't hurt to try before getting involved with the rear quarter.
Just a suggestion, can't hurt to try before getting involved with the rear quarter.
Will do in a little...just got in...stopped at the Publix on the way...paid 12.50 for one North Atlantic Cod filet
What do you pay up there?
So...it does kind of angle open most of the way....
It's decently straight according to the square...maybe even appears to angle backwards a bit at the bottom...which would/should make the bottom a little open.
It's decently straight according to the square...maybe even appears to angle backwards a bit at the bottom...which would/should make the bottom a little open.
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Yes, it does...especially if you look from the lower trim hole upward it is an evenly progressing gap.
I already got an inch of washers on top of the rearmost mount...any more and it is very noticeably higher than the other side.
I'd put a thick washer in the back and one at the firewall, than tighten the pee out of the mount by the B-post and see where your at...
