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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
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- ryoken green
I need to raise the body line just a little...do I weld it top middle or bottom first?
I think I can lift the body line by prying with a screwdriver through that trim hole.
I think I can lift the body line by prying with a screwdriver through that trim hole.
eh, we'll cross that bridge if it comes.. generally you'll see it in the path of least resistence or at an angle... usually up from one of the wheelwell corners at an angle...
just see how it does jacking up the tailpan once fixed in the front.. you maybe surprised with it..
just see how it does jacking up the tailpan once fixed in the front.. you maybe surprised with it..
doesn't matter if it's all clamped into place.. but with the known issues, I'd hit the bottom first, middle than top..
You saying to try to put the body mount back in if it doesn't buckle just releasing the bolt???
yup.. you'll know in short order.. it wont buckle from just releasing the bolt.. jacking the tailpan if needed, could do it if it's too much torsional stress...
Because of the metal tube that centers the mount back there the rear has to be lifted pretty high...
I may need to cheat somehow so as not to lift it that high?
I think the tube only protects the hole in the mount from the bolt...but in this case it may not be absolutely necessary...the bolt will keep it in place.
your thinking too far in advance.. deal with that it if it arises.. one step at a time..
believe it or not, the removal of the rear mount and shims has altered the gap on the passenger side.
I'd like to straighten that more too...might as well...although I don't think the quarter is the problem on that side...
oh well...will wait till I fix the driver's side to worry about that...
I'd like to straighten that more too...might as well...although I don't think the quarter is the problem on that side...
oh well...will wait till I fix the driver's side to worry about that...
I'd loosen the other side at the tailpan, and maybe the next pair forward of the tailpan before trying to lift it to get the last body mount re-installed...
The other side is loose at the tailpan.
Although, it may help protect the panel more by not loosening the next pair of body mount forward?
keeping them tight may keep the stress more toward the back?
Wish I knew...it would certainly allow the back to raise higher...but that may not be a good thing
Sounds like me on many dates..........
I need to get to bed. Been up WAY too long today......
what do I do about the body line if it won't come up high enough?
how low is it?
if the whole front is loose, you should be able to pry it upward.. or take a jack and block of wood and jack it up at the front corner, clamp, burn, yada...
if the whole front is loose, you should be able to pry it upward.. or take a jack and block of wood and jack it up at the front corner, clamp, burn, yada...
that's a good idea...when I get a chance to tack it and release the rear bolt I will get a better idea of how low it is...right now it is almost 1/4 inch
I am on call today, but I am about to go out there and weld the bottom of the quarter where I have the vice grip...then go from there
well...you fix a problem..then you gain a problem. I got the fender re-welded and jacked up the rear and put the body mount back in place.
The gap looks good....but now the problem is low on the quarter, it is bulging out not in line with the rocker and the very bottom of the door.
I will post pics after I get cleaned up...everything looks rough right now because of the heavy grit sanding, heat marks from the welding...burned primer...but you can see the gap is pretty straight.
That uneven gap at the bottom looks worse in the photos than it it does in real life...but it is there...
The gap looks good....but now the problem is low on the quarter, it is bulging out not in line with the rocker and the very bottom of the door.
I will post pics after I get cleaned up...everything looks rough right now because of the heavy grit sanding, heat marks from the welding...burned primer...but you can see the gap is pretty straight.
That uneven gap at the bottom looks worse in the photos than it it does in real life...but it is there...
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you shouldn't have fully welded that with that bottom bulging out..
is the bodyline correct?
is the bodyline correct?
