didn't see this... i thought all this was stock....
you never should have welded these the first time if you had all these issues...
just fill the jamb with dynaglass and be done than...
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ryoken green
didn't see this... i thought all this was stock....
you never should have welded these the first time if you had all these issues...
just fill the jamb with dynaglass and be done than...
I will try that...I had not though of putting a shim in the firewall area body mount until the previous post. I will give that a shot later...that front mount is the one I had to cut through the floorboard to weld a nut in there....I think...jeez I don't want any trouble there. I will try to just loosen it without completely removing the bolt.
I wellded the nut with the bolt in it...It was a tight area...I don't want to but the weld loose and have it spinning in there.
I didn't have anything to go by...the fenders were off...the quarters came off...there was nothing in place to go by...I measured the B Pillars crossways and they came out perfect side to side and front to back...they were all I had to go by.
So if I have to do it this way, do I remove the rear shim making the gap even wider...then dynaglass it?
Do I need to weld the rod along the outer edge for structure to help strengthen the dynaglass fill?
if the tailgate is gapped ok, leave it alone..
and no, just put some dynaglass there, it doesn't need that much...
if it's stock height, yeah, it'd be worth throwing a couple in it to try it out..
not an inch tho..
not an inch tho..
Do I need to sandblast that jamb before dynaglass or is sanding good enough?
just make sure you have a clean, ground etch.. the other side was so fubared from rewelding, etc, thats why i suggested it over there to get all the nooks and crannies.
same as any other grind for dyna app, 36 to 40 if ya can get away with it..
so the paint and primer needs to come off...it need to be bare metal? back to body filler 101
raw
Is amusing...just getting into this phase as my ole 72' finally made it diwn here from northern Vermont. She hsd been sitting behind a friends barn in axle deep mud for 11 yrs while I have been working globally.
Now have begun the slow process of taking it apart. Am impressed as not much rust (did not mske a habit of driving it on the salt coated roads of Northern Maine (happily). Even the frame looked pretty decent so...
Brushing up on body work 101 when I saw this post. At +500 pages, I have much to accomplish in read time lol. Very informative all, thanks in advance.
Now have begun the slow process of taking it apart. Am impressed as not much rust (did not mske a habit of driving it on the salt coated roads of Northern Maine (happily). Even the frame looked pretty decent so...
Brushing up on body work 101 when I saw this post. At +500 pages, I have much to accomplish in read time lol. Very informative all, thanks in advance.
It just keeps getting better.....I put the socket to the mount bolt and gave it a twist and POP!!! the nut busted loose and now the bolt is just spinning.
I never was able to find a cage nut that size and the channel is so small you can't get the welder tip in there good...I knew this would happen.
I never was able to find a cage nut that size and the channel is so small you can't get the welder tip in there good...I knew this would happen.
Next time, and apparently there will be a next time, use the bolt to hold the new nut, weld it best you can...then turn the bolt out and let the nut cool. Do it while the nut is still hot...
Wait til the nut is cool and run a 1/2"-13 tap through the cooled nut. Add a bit of anti-seize to the bolt and tighten it up.
When you get a nut that hot, it expands a fair bit. The problem is that when it cools it contracts to slightly smaller than when you started. This is why the bolt tore the nut free.
Wait til the nut is cool and run a 1/2"-13 tap through the cooled nut. Add a bit of anti-seize to the bolt and tighten it up.
When you get a nut that hot, it expands a fair bit. The problem is that when it cools it contracts to slightly smaller than when you started. This is why the bolt tore the nut free.
I have the old cage nut...I am going to have a machine shop make me one...I am not doing this a third time.
I told you to leave the window open.. 
take the nozzle off the welder tip to get in there better.. should be able to get a heavy tack on 2 sides, lengthwise...
take the nozzle off the welder tip to get in there better.. should be able to get a heavy tack on 2 sides, lengthwise...
why? you still have to weld the cage in, and hope that holds the nut... just weld the nut, thats how I do em...
the cage is in the channel...everything is still in the channel ... I just have to drop the nut in and close the window....apparently I cannot be trusted to make a proper weld.
