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Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Overview Gallery Discussion
I gotta say this....my inexperience and those Taiwan quarter panels make for a rough experience. had to tear them apart to make them fit right out of the box...then all the other stuff I have run into...
 
:haha:

Udo the dwarf rocked! :saweet:





I used to crank that tune on my Walkman bombing mt roads looking for pools...
 
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ryoken said:
:haha:
Udo the dwarf rocked! :saweet:

I used to crank that tune on my Walkman bombing mt roads looking for pools...
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I loved Accept....kind of funny to listen after all these years....loved Balls to the Wall!
 
I know it's a little way off but how do I spray primer on the door and outer lip of the door jamb without getting it on the door jamb...

how do you "blend" where primer meets clear? :dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
mask it...

anything that is going to have primer on it needs to be sanded with 180 to 220.. beyond where your going to primer.. than when ya 400 your primer, you'll carry that out and 400 the 220 scratches out..
 
Can I use a cheese grater on this?

I bought one just in case....that Dynaglas is very hard to sand

2013-04-04_zpsa346afcf.jpg
 
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too late... cheesegraters are only for products when they are fresh and not fully cured, semi soft.. it does nothing for that concrete once it's dry..
 
ryoken said:
too late... cheesegraters are only for products when they are fresh and not fully cured, semi soft.. it does nothing for that concrete once it's dry..
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Actually I meant on the new Dynaglas I will be putting on tomorrow...it may not be thick enough to even need it, but I learned when I put on that stripe of Dynaglas down the door/quarter gap that when it hardened just a little I could cut it with a razorblade out of the gap like play-dough...had to to not lock the door up...and it saved a lot of sanding by doing that.
 
it's a bit dicier trying to cut a glass based product with a grater.. the operating window is smaller than it is with a regular filler..

it's rare that I use one, especially on fiberglass.. usually I'll grind/DA hog or go right to a 36 rip... but I'm also generous with my paper... if it gets loaded from early/soft cutting, beyond cleanable/usable in some fashion, I'll toss it..

*Ryoken Body Work Tip of the Day*

you waste more time, = $, sanding with some notebook smooth piece of dead paper for 20 minutes, than grabbing a new $1.29 sheet... :deal:
 
ryoken said:
*Ryoken Body Work Tip of the Day*

you waste more time, = $, sanding with some notebook smooth piece of dead paper for 20 minutes, than grabbing a new $1.29 sheet... :deal:
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I bought a half dozen of those $1.29 green 3M longboard sheets...I hope it's enough to do what I need to do...I was using crappy harbor freight...rub it with your fingers and the gravel would fall off...
the 3M seems a lot tougher..
 
didn't even know they made it...

3M green corp or purple imperial are the best.. but there are others that I've run without issue... Norton, Mirka, etc...
 
oh and, a combo of a blow gun, and another piece of 36 to clean loaded paper..
 
ryoken said:
oh and, a combo of a blow gun, and another piece of 36 to clean loaded paper..
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At the wood shop we used to use coal oil and brush...cleans sandpaper real good

Probably not advisable for automotive work
 
Chief Brody said:
GetThumbNail.aspx
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imo, the best paper you can buy..
 
come on, that one deserved at least a








:woot: :pimp: :weapon9:
 
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a smattering of applause :rolleyes:

tip your bartenders and waitresses please...I'll be here all week....

I just flew in from Albuquerque.....my arms are tired!!!

:haha:
 
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