y5mgisi
1 ton status
That will certainly do! Im going to do the same thing with the burb. Use an overlay until i can spend the big bucks on a real one.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
-
- Tags
- ryoken green
It just didn't look good layed on there...and it was black.
With the Color Coat, it appears to be the correct color and gluing it down makes all the difference
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Cool. Cant expect an overlay to look as good as the real thing, but its a perfect compromise!
Part 24 on this page connects into the grayed out box to the right of it. (I'm pretty sure thats right) That air duct is the bottom most one that goes from the right side of the dash to the left connecting the lower left vent to the rest. I'd wait to put it in until you've got the radio in and any other pieces up in there. With it removed it is much easier to install other pieces. I'd unscrew the lower left vent so it is loose when you go to attach the duct, otherwise you could break it trying to fit the duct up in there.
Dash turned out great Chief! Like I said, those overlay's fit so well they can be hard to spot.
I got the AC tube in, thanks!
I also decided to put the dash bezel in to.
The dash and all its components will be my project next year after the surgery.
I need to work everything from the dash bezel lens out, and all the AC outlets.
I still haven't put in the orifice tube yet...I probably need to do that and get the AC system up and running.
I am trying to get the passenger door panel color coated and put on before next week...and that will pretty much be it for a while.
I also decided to put the dash bezel in to.
The dash and all its components will be my project next year after the surgery.
I need to work everything from the dash bezel lens out, and all the AC outlets.
I still haven't put in the orifice tube yet...I probably need to do that and get the AC system up and running.
I am trying to get the passenger door panel color coated and put on before next week...and that will pretty much be it for a while.
Last edited:
oh yeah...I got to get the front driveshaft put back on...have to get new u-joints put in...it has one of those double-joints in it...universal whatever
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I believe the correct terminology is a "double carden". Good job man!
Thanks...the inner bed side covers have to be done too...I guess I will get the upholsterer to do those for me when I get the rear seat upholstered
Truck looks amazing so far. You going to try to find a dash bezel that isn't cut up in the radio area?
I have one...that's the one I will be restoring and putting on there...it's in perfect condition but needs cleaning, painting, plastic polish for the wood grain and chrome paint inside the gauge clusters.
Yes it is verts only...none of the 1973 up c10 trucks have it...none in the junkyard had them.
If anybody has one (I only need one) I'd be interested.
I was refering to the kick panels not the door things, yes the door things are vert specific.
Somehow I missed a post as to what was being refered to.
Somehow I missed a post as to what was being refered to.
On the drivers door I had the metal plate...I drove around for 4 hours today...the drivers door doesn't rattle anymore.
I check in to see what progress you've made from time to time. Your blazer is looking great!
Now I have a question. What are your plans for the top? Will it get some fresh paint on it? I need to do something with the hard top on mine. In some spots the paint has completely faded and you can see the fiberglass, so I want to repaint it before there is any permanent damage from the weather.
I'm too young to remember what the tops texture was when these things were new (born in 86). The top I had on my 85 had been repainted at some time and it was a smooth finish. The top that's on my 91 is not smooth at all. Are they supposed to have a "texture" to the or be smooth?
Is the top something that you will paint yourself, or will it get painted by the same place that did the rest of your truck?
Maybe Ryoken can answer some of the questions I have.
Now I have a question. What are your plans for the top? Will it get some fresh paint on it? I need to do something with the hard top on mine. In some spots the paint has completely faded and you can see the fiberglass, so I want to repaint it before there is any permanent damage from the weather.
I'm too young to remember what the tops texture was when these things were new (born in 86). The top I had on my 85 had been repainted at some time and it was a smooth finish. The top that's on my 91 is not smooth at all. Are they supposed to have a "texture" to the or be smooth?
Is the top something that you will paint yourself, or will it get painted by the same place that did the rest of your truck?
Maybe Ryoken can answer some of the questions I have.
Yes, indeed...the top is on the list, but it will likely be the last thing I do.
Mine is smooth...I too will need help when it comes to preparing the top for paint. I will probably spray it myself. It's small enough to handle the whole job...I think.
These days it would probably be easy enough to texture if you wanted to...but I think they were smooth ...at least the 73-75.
I got a couple places inside that will need a little fiberglass repair.
Believe it or not, the real expense in fixing the top is the rubber seals and weatherstrip....and right now all of it is dry rotted. I wish I had it already fixed because I might drive it in the winter if I did.
I just want to get the rest of the Blazer done before I tackle that several hundred dollars worth of weatherstripping.
I bought new "door jamb plunger switches" for the interior lights.
I go to screw them in and the threads just catch but they won't tighten.
Any ideas short of drilling a new hole?
I go to screw them in and the threads just catch but they won't tighten.
Any ideas short of drilling a new hole?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You mean they are stripped?
I think that the new ones just aren't quite as big as the old ones...quality control crap
Do you have one of the old ones to check and see?
If the holes are good, I would try to find some used ones to fit the original holes before messing up the paint and having to fill and cover the old holes.
Otherwise, you might find a threadsert that is the original size, drill out the hole and put one of those in it.
If the holes are good, I would try to find some used ones to fit the original holes before messing up the paint and having to fill and cover the old holes.
Otherwise, you might find a threadsert that is the original size, drill out the hole and put one of those in it.
